olivemagazine2024-01-11T17:19:25Zhttps://www.olivemagazine.com/feed/atom/Isabella Keeling - health writer<![CDATA[10 gut health foods]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=2256032024-01-11T17:19:25Z2024-01-11T17:19:25Z
It’s no wonder everyone’s talking about gut health – evidence shows there’s a connection between a healthy, balanced gut and good mood, quality sleep, effective immunity and lots more. Recent studies show that our individual microbiome (trillions of bacteria which live in the gut) influence our health as much as our genes do, and these are hugely impacted by what we eat and drink.
That’s why it’s so important to consider your gut when planning your meals. Whether you’re someone who already suffers from digestive issues, or you want to improve your overall wellbeing, you’d be wise to start with the gut.
Below, we’ve highlighted foods with impressive benefits to your gut, from fibre-rich fruits to anti-inflammatory fermented condiments. Add them to your basket, get cooking and enjoy.
Not only are they rich in fibre, kiwis also contain an enzyme called actinidin which facilitates the breakdown of protein, helping us to digest meat, fish and other protein foods. Blend them into this super-green smoothie for a perfect gut-healthy start to the day.
This traditional Japanese ingredient is made from fermented soybeans and contains millions of beneficial bacteria, which support a healthy gut and good digestion. In this dish, we’ve combined it with gochujang, another condiment made with fermented soya beans, to make a nutritious chicken noodle soup.
Starchy sweet potatoes are packed with fibre, plus they contain high levels of protective plant sterols. Combine with lentils – another fibre-rich food – and anti-inflammatory turmeric to make this warming vegan curry.
Mushrooms are generally cheap, easy to use and good for you, plus they contain compounds including beta glucan, which appear to act as prebiotics, fuelling the beneficial bacteria in the gut. Stuff them with garlic and halloumi for a light, gluten-free meal.
Sauerkraut is made from fermented cabbage, which means it’s easy to digest, and is a good source of probiotics. It’s best to make your own as pre-packaged sauerkraut may be pasteurised to extend the shelf-life, killing the beneficial bacteria. If you are buying it ready-made, look for ‘unpasteurised’ products, which should be kept chilled.
Broccoli contains sulphur, which contributes to a healthy balance in the gut and, as a result, supports your immune system. Here we’ve combined it with soba noodles, edamame beans and peanuts to make a fresh and healthy dinner.
If you’re looking to increase your fibre intake, look no further than your kitchen cupboard. Chickpeas are packed with the stuff, meaning they contribute to a healthy digestive system and relieve gut issues. Combine with tikka paste, paneer and yogurt – another gut-friendly food, as it contains probiotics – to make this delicious chickpea curry.
Due to their high fibre content, figs act as a natural laxative. This fibre also has prebiotic properties, feeding the good bacteria in the gut and improving digestive wellness. When they’re in season, enjoy them in a range of dishes, from porridge to a light and peppery salad.
We’re huge fans of kimchi – it’s a flavour bomb of sour, spicy and tangy. As with other fermented foods, it’s believed to improve intestinal health and may also reduce inflammation. Turn it into an easy tray bake with tofu, broccoli, baby corn and rice.
Sourdough is one of the healthier bread options – especially for our guts, thanks to its unique fermentation process. Don’t be afraid of making your own loaf – try our step-by-step starter recipe.
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Imogen Hope<![CDATA[Best Ninja air-fryers: a complete guide]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=2157062024-01-11T10:15:09Z2024-01-11T10:15:09Z
Air-fryers have grown hugely in popularity in recent years. In the Lakeland 2023 trends report they beat ovens, hobs or kettles to be voted as the ‘favourite or most relied upon’ cooking appliance among 35 to 44-year-olds.
Air-fryers work by circulating hot air to produce food with a ‘fried’ effect using far less oil, or often none at all, compared to traditional deep-fat frying. Due to their compact nature and ability to heat up quickly (most have a preheating time of just three minutes) they have a much lower energy usage than traditional ovens when cooking smaller quantities.
Ninja is an industry leader in appliances, regularly making headlines like with the viral Ninja Creami ice cream maker, but its air-fryers are hard to beat. Our reviews experts have tested dozens of different air-fryers from numerous brands, and Ninja regularly comes highly recommended.
We’ve found its air-fryers to be stylishly designed, easy to use and great value for money. We’ve also been impressed by Ninja’s sustainability credentials — the air-fryers we’ve tested have, for the most part, been packaged without plastic and in recyclable packaging which is fairly unusual.
But with so many models of air-fryer available from Ninja, it can be difficult to know which one is right for you. Read on for our guide to each air-fryer in the brands range. Looking for some recipe inspiration? Check out our best air-fryer recipes.
Visit our friends at BBC Good Food for more tried-and-tested picks of the best air-fryers.
This single basket air-fryer impressed us on test. It features a round drawer with a 5.2L capacity which is large enough to fit a roast chicken. As well as air-frying there are functions to bake, roast, reheat, dehydrate and max crisp. When air-frying the machine prompted us to shake the drawer halfway through the cooking time which ensures even cooking and produced well sealed and fluffy chips.
We were particularly impressed by this air-fryer’s ability to bake. The round tray accommodated the same amount of cake mixture as a standard tin and the non-stick edges meant it was easy to remove. Our apple and almond cake was evenly baked with a nice rise in the middle.
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This large capacity, dual zone air-fryer was a joy to use. With a large capacity you get a large footprint, and there’s no denying that you need a lot of counter space to accommodate this air-fryer. After a brief flick through of the manual we were able to get cooking pretty quickly thanks to the easy set up.
Our halloumi cooked in seven minutes and had a golden colour and crisp texture, although the shape of the tray made for some unusual grill marks. Using the Sync function, we cooked a salmon fillet in one basket and a chicken breast in the other. While cooking them at the same time, and there was no smell or taste transfer between the drawers. The salmon had a crisp skin while the chicken retained moisture and had a nice flavour.
Best Ninja air-fryer for cooking a complete meal in one
Star rating: 5/5
With a matte finish, bright interface and shiny metal handles on the drawers, this air-fryer makes an impressive feature in the kitchen. Much like the other Dual Zone offerings from Ninja, the large capacity also makes for a large machine which is an important factor to consider if you’re limited on kitchen space. You can choose to use just one zone, both zones simultaneously to cook the same thing (like a large batch of chips) or each zone independently to cook two different things. While it took us a few tries to get our heads around these cooking options using the sync and match functions, once we were confident we found them easy to master.
We made thin and chunky chips in this air-fryer and both had impressive results. The thick chips kept a fluffy centre while the thin ones didn’t dry out. Our duck breast was perfectly cooked to medium after 15 minutes at 180C with slightly crispy, golden skin.
Differing from the draw design of classic air-fryers, this model has the feel of a pizza oven with a lid that opens upwards. As well as air-frying and grilling it offers great versatility with the ability to bake, roast, dehydrate and reheat.
To test the air-frying function we cooked chips which, despite having no oil, had a good flavour and while, softer than traditionally fried chips, weren’t soggy. It comes with a cooking probe to help you ensure perfectly cooked joints of meat. We used this to help us cook a whole chicken which took 40 minutes and was juicy and flavourful, if slightly paler than we would’ve liked. We tried the grill function with strips of courgette which had attractive grill lines and didn’t stick even though we didn’t use any oil.
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Ninja Speedi 10-in-1 Rapid cooker and air-fryer ON400UK
Notably different from most other models on this list, the Ninja Speedi is a traditional air-fryer rather a multicooker with the capability to steam, bake, slow cook, roast, dehydrate, air-fry and more. If you’re interested in air-frying but want to prioritise versatility this could be a really good option.
The internal tray means you can cook in two layers inside the machine, essentially doubling the capacity of the 5.7L pot. To air-fry, the tray needs to sit on the base of the pot before you can use it as a normal air-fryer, or to air-fry elements before incorporating them in the rest of a dish.
Ninja’s health grills look pretty distinct compared to its traditional air-fryers. This model has a lid that lifts where different elements can be used for various cooking functions. It comes with a grill plate, crisper basket and cooking pot making it super versatile for various cooking styles. As well as the ability to air-fry and grill, this model can also be used to roast, dehydrate and bake.
Once you’ve chosen a cooking function, a helpful progress bar lets you know how much preheating time is left. We air-fried our hand-cut chips for 22 minutes, and they were drier than we expected with very little fluffiness. Next time, we would have cooked them for less time and ensured they were thickly cut. However, the halloumi and aubergine we cooked both had very attractive grill marks with a golden colour and satisfying texture.
The Dual Zone air-fryer looks impressive right out of the box with an elegant matte finish on the body and stainless steel handles on the drawers. It’s size and stature make it eye-catching on a countertop but means that you need plenty of space. The large capacity makes this a great option if you’re regularly catering for a crowd or want to use your air-fryer to cook two different dishes at once.
We cooked our chips for 20 minutes at 200C and they had a crisp outside while still retaining a fluffy middle. We used the cooking probe to cook chicken breast until the internal temperature registered 75C. This required some trial and error, with consultation of the manual to understand that the meat needs to be removed before it reaches final temperature and allowed to rest. Once we mastered it, the result was a well-cooked chicken breast.
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Ninja Foodi MAX Pro Health grill, flat plate and air-fryer AG651UK
This model is certainly an investment. For just under £300 you get a range of versatility with the ability to air-fry, roast, grill, bake, dehydrate, reheat and cook with a flat plate. It also comes with a cooking probe which lets you choose from a number of presets depending on what you’re cooking. We really liked the look of this model — a combination of matte black and stainless steel which didn’t leave any fingerprints.
We used the grill setting for aubergine and halloumi which both had attractive grill lines and a concentrated flavour. It’s worth noting that the grill plate sits at an angle which can mean food slides down if you don’t keep an eye on it. To test the flat plate we cooked a salmon fillet which resulted in a super crispy skin. We used the probe to cook a chicken breast, which we didn’t find very intuitive, but after close consultation of the manual we had success.
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One of the first air-fryers produced by Ninja, this 3.2L model still holds up to the competition of newer models. It has the classic single basket design and looks sleek in dark grey and black. The sturdy machine comes with four functions; to air-fry, roast, dehydrate and reheat. As the most affordable of Ninja’s models it’s missing the bells and whistles that you might get with a pricier option — for example you’ll need to manually pause the timer when turning or shaking food — but it does the basics really well.
When we tested this air-fryer we were impressed by the dehydrating function which produced intense cherries to go on our morning porridge. We preheated the air-frying setting for the recommended three minutes before cooking our chips, which were satisfying but not greasy, while the roasting function produced evenly cooked Mediterranean vegetables.
Ninja has a number of accessories compatible with different models of air-fryers to help expand the cooking zones, enable a number of cooking functions, or to help clean the machine. Here are some of our favourites but you’ll find the full range of Ninja air-fryer accessories online.
Oven mitts are an essential piece of safety equipment when handling anything hot, but unfortunately most regular pairs are too large to be used when handling an air-fryer. This pair of silicone mitts are specifically designed to be less bulky while still protecting your hands from heat, and the inner parts have deep ridges to help grip any hot trays of crisper plates without fear of slippage. Be aware though, these work better for those with hands on the smaller side.
Adding a rack to your air-fryer can essentially double its capacity, allowing you to cook food on multiple levels. You can either cook double the amount of one food or increase the versatility of your air-fryer by cooking different foods on the two levels. Just note that to do this they’ll need to cook at the same temperature. This rack is designed to fit into a single drawer air-fryer but there are also ones to fit every model.
Cleaning your air-fryer is important to making it last for a long time. However, most internal elements need to be cleaned with a non-abrasive brush to make sure the non-stick coating isn’t damaged. This brush has a scraper at one end and bristles at the other to help you get to any hard-to-reach spots.
Which Ninja air-fryer is best for two people?
Due to their capacity, most air-fryers will suit the needs of one to two people, so the most important thing to consider is what you want to use your air-fryer for. There are different types of Ninja air-fryers depending on your needs:
Single basket air-fryers: Single basket air-fryers have one compartment which slides horizontally from the main unit. These tend to be slightly more compact machines which can be useful if you’re limited on kitchen space, but will easily cook enough food for two people. We’ve also found that Ninja’s single basket air-fryers are better for baking than other models which we’ve tried as they have a round drawer so you can use a standard cake recipe.
Dual basket air-fryers: Dual basket air-fryers have two drawers which pull out from the main unit. These tend to be large capacity so might be too large for two people, but could be really useful if you’re planning on cooking entire meals in your air-fryer.
Air-fryer grills: If you’re after versatility, Ninja’s Health grills could be a really good option. Not only can you air-fry using minimal or no oil, but you can also grill meat, vegetables and more. All the models we tested left halloumi and vegetables with attractive grill marks and a smoky flavour.
FlexDrawer air-fryers: The FlexDrawer is a new style of air-fryer from Ninja, featuring one large basket drawer which can be divided into two. It would work well for two people if you’re looking to cook whole meals in your air-fryer or you like to meal prep at the beginning of the week. The large space means you can cook traybakes and one-dish meals. Find inspiration in our best easy traybake recipes.
Which Ninja air-fryer to buy for a family of four?
For a family of four, a priority is likely to be a large capacity as well as versatility. This means that the Dual Zone style of air-fryers will probably be best suited to your needs. These air-fryers usually have room to cook the largest amount of food, which is perfect for when you’re regularly cooking for a crowd.
They also let you cook two different dishes at once, so whether the kids are having one meal and the adults another, or you want to cook protein in one drawer and carbs or vegetables in the other, you have the maximum amount of choices available.
Ninja Foodi MAX Dual Zone air-fryer AF400UK, from £249.99
Ninja Foodi Dual Zone air-fryer AF300UK, from £149.99
Ninja Foodi MAX Dual Zone air-fryer AF451UK, from £249.99
How to clean a Ninja air-fryer?
Because of their compact size, air-fryers are fairly quick to clean. We’d recommend cleaning the trays and/or baskets of your air-fryer before the first use and following every use to deter build up of grease and debris. Anything remaining in your air-fryer could also burn when you use it again, risking imparting this flavour into your food.
As the trays and baskets of most Ninja air-fryers have non-stick coatings, you’ll need to avoid cleaning with any abrasive tools. Instead, once the trays have completely cooled, remove them from your air-fryer and clean using warm, soapy water and a gentle brush, sponge or cloth. If there are any stubborn, burnt-on bits of food or grease, combine baking soda and water to the texture of toothpaste and leave it to sit for 20 minutes.
The main body of any air-fryer cannot be submerged in water, so will need to be cleaned by hand if you’re doing a deep clean. We’d recommend using a sponge or cloth and an eco all-purpose cleaning spray. It’s important to always make sure you unplug the air-fryer before cleaning.
The removable parts of many Ninja air-fryers are dishwasher-safe, but it’s important to check the manual of your particular model. When testing, we found it very quick and easy to clean Ninja air-fryers due to the high quality of the non-stick coating, so it shouldn’t be necessary to use the dishwasher to clean it after every use.
How we test Ninja air-fryers
To put Ninja’s air-fryer through their paces we tested how each performed cooking recipes most suited to the appliance.
One of the most important test was to see how the air-fryers performed for making chips. We peeled and sliced Maris Piper potatoes before leaving them to soak for half and hour and patting them dry. For each test we consulted the manual and used the advised cooking setting, time and temperature for our chips.
We also tested a number of other recipes and ingredients on the air-fryers including air-fryer salmon, air-fryer chicken, aubergine and halloumi.
Our review team test using a set criteria, scoring in each area out of five and then using this average score and the total star rating. The criteria we test for include:
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Alex Crossley<![CDATA[Join us for 30 days of wellness]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=2248972024-01-11T09:44:09Z2024-01-11T09:13:03Z
Start the year the olive nourish way with 30 days of wellness ✨ Each day in January, we’ll be sharing an exclusive nutrient-packed recipe or piece of wellness advice to work in to your routine. Sign up for free to get access to four exclusive recipes, including a one-pot winter warmer, feel-good winter salad, get-your-greens soup and winter sunshine breakfast bowl for energy-boosting goodness. Check in each morning for a new way to nourish your mind and body.
We have created this nourishing one-pot exclusively for our wellness plan. It’s a vegan one-pot packed with plenty of ginger, garlic and turmeric to support your immune system, plus beta-carotene-rich sweet potatoes for vitamin A and eye health.
Tuesdays are about a bit of pick and mix, the ‘olive nourish’ way. We’ve picked out four easy recipes that use storecupboard ingredients and included tips for healthy swaps and add-ons to make them extra nutritious.
Healthy swap: To make this couscous salad a little healthier, swap the crispy fried onions for a large handful of toasted almonds or walnuts. Toast the nuts for a few minutes in a dry pan while the cauliflower is roasting, leave to cool then roughly chop. This not only increases the protein in the dish, it will also up the good fats – both of which help keep you fuller for longer.
As part of our wellness plan, our health editor has created some handy ‘nourish garnishes’ to make in batches and boost your midweek lunches. Instead of kimchi in this toastie recipe, you could try sauerkraut or even a homemade quick tapenade as a gut-friendly garnish. Sauerkraut has been well publicised for its microbiome benefits, but did you know that olives (in brine) are also a fermented food?
Nourish garnish recipe tip: Make your own tapenade by blitzing a jar of black olives (drained) with a tbsp of capers, 2 anchovy fillets, a dash of red wine vinegar and a glug of olive oil.
Knowing that the health of our gut can impact the function of our whole body, from skin health to digestion, immunity and mood. This sauerkraut salad is a gut-supportive go-to. Don’t worry if you can’t finish it all in one sitting – as potatoes cool, they become richer in resistant starch, which can help to improve blood sugar control by supporting healthy gut bacteria. Plus, as resistant starch is fermented slowly, it causes less gas then other fibres – great for those with a more sensitive gut.
Start the weekend with a treat to yourself with our mindful moments and rituals to work into your routine. Cuddle up over a sunshine-hued turmeric latte, that boasts a host of health benefits, including anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
We’re dedicating the weekend to slowing down and practising mindfulness. Our ‘kitchen therapy’ projects include with lots of inspiration for soothing cooking, slow simmering and spending some downtime in the kitchen – including nurturing your own sourdough starter. Make this the first rewarding skill you learn in 2024.
Sundays are for slowing down – in your tasks and in cooking. Give your slow cooker some love with this sausage casserole, packed with hearty ingredients, including sausages, bacon and borlotti beans. Pop out on a bracing walk for some fresh air before returning to this winter warmer.
This nutrient-rich soup is loaded with green veg and leafy greens for a boost of iron, while the vitamin C in the lemon helps you absorb the iron. Immunity boosters such as yogurt, seeds and basil add extra nutrition and vitamins to the soup. It needs just a splash of cream to become a hearty, warming lunch.
Healthy swap: To give this dish a veggie makeover, leave out the sausages and bacon. This will reduce the saturated fat, making it a heart-healthy meal. To keep it filling, you could add a few small, cooked potatoes in step 4, along with the kale leaves.
A traditional Korean fermented food, kimchi adds more than just flavour to this tofu dish. It’s a natural source of probiotics and fibre, essentially the gut’s favourite things. Studies suggest that regularly eating kimchi has a positive effect on the gut, immune system, brain function and skin health.
Seeds and spices have a host of health benefits, with pumpkin seeds being a great source of antioxidants, so check out our simple soup topper mix to add a nutrient-rich sprinkle to your lunch.
Nourish garnish recipe tip: Add some pumpkin seeds, nigella seeds and chilli flakes to a dry frying pan and toast gently. Swirl some extra virgin olive oil on top of your soup, scatter with the seed mix and finish with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.
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Dina Begum<![CDATA[Bangladeshi food: how to cook like a local]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=2255172024-01-10T16:00:19Z2024-01-10T16:00:19Z
Want to learn about Bangladeshi food? Looking for Bangladeshi recipes? Read Dina Begum’s guide below, then check out these Indian recipes. We also have our cook like a local guides to Indonesia and Pakistan.
Bangladeshi cuisine is vast and varied, influenced by Persian, Moghul and Southeast Asian flavours. Core ingredients include mustard oil, panch phoron (Bengali five spice), date molasses, coconut and dried and fermented fish. There is a focus on locally grown and seasonal produce, which makes Bangladeshi cuisine rich in vegetarian and vegan dishes. While rice is a staple in everyday meals, often featuring in every meal, fish comes a close second. Fish is fried, steamed in banana leaf and cooked into light stews and rich curries.
Bhorta, a mash made of mainly vegetables and also fish and meat, is integral to everyday eating, mixed and eaten with plain rice. These make for a simple lunch or first course to a multi-course meal. Bangladeshi food is traditionally eaten in courses, unlike other countries in the subcontinent, starting with vegetarian dishes, then fish, meat and ending with something sweet. Bangladeshis have an affinity with sweets, and no get-together or celebration is complete without an assortment.
The flora and fauna of the country manifests itself in the many festivals that take place, and can be seen in the artistic motifs of pastries: fish-shaped shondesh (milky sweetmeats) and birds cut into rice dough to make nokshi pitha – intricately decorated pastries. Pitha are rice-based sweets and savouries, which includes crêpes, steamed dumplings, fried pastries and puddings, made with new rice and served during special occasions such as Eid, Pujo or weddings.
Dining out in Bangladesh – especially in the cities such as Dhaka and Sylhet – food options are many, from classic, traditional fare to modern and fusion cuisines. Popular street food offerings include chotpoti (spicy chickpeas and potatoes topped with cucumber, tomatoes, egg and pastry) and puchka, pastry shells stuffed with potatoes and chickpeas in tamarind sauce.
This showstopper of a dish originates from the Chittagong district, and is traditionally served to welcome a new groom into the bride’s family. Mellow, lightly spiced and creamy, the skinless chicken is melt-in-your-mouth and flavoursome throughout, thanks to slow-cooking and bhagar, or tempering of golden fried onions. Serve it with shada pulao for the ultimate meal.
The scent of onions caramelising in fat is universally regarded as wonderful – and, in this case, it’s made even more so with a generous amount of ghee coating each grain of rice with its nutty aroma. When I was growing up, pulao meant one thing: dawats, or feasts, with aunties and cousins dressed in their finery. Cooked using the absorption method of one part rice to two parts water, this recipe can be quickly rustled up when you’re entertaining, or feel like treating yourself to something to accompany a curry or stew. Any leftovers make a great brunch dish with a fried egg on top.
If you haven’t tasted firni, you are in for a treat. This refined cousin of rice pudding makes appearances at weddings, Eids and other special celebrations. Scented with cardamom and pandan extract, firni is served chilled, scattered with rose petals and pistachios, either in individual portions or in a large sharing dish. I make various versions of this pudding, but this is my favourite when entertaining, as it can be prepared ahead of time and needs to be chilled overnight. The perfume of pandan is matched with the citrussy floral notes of cardamom, and both are delicious with the milk and rice.
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Lydia Anderson<![CDATA[Best KitchenAid mixers – a complete guide to expertly tested stand mixers]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1854862024-01-10T15:59:17Z2024-01-10T15:59:17Z
The KitchenAid stand mixer is an instantly recognisable countertop showpiece. A kitchen staple for home bakers and professional chefs alike, it comes as no real surprise that it has achieved icon status.
Invented in Ohio in 1919, the original KitchenAid “H5” served simply as an egg beater. The H5 was an instant hit, and the brand gained widespread acclaim. Over the last 100+ years, the shape of the KitchenAid stand mixer has stayed much the same. But, through some pretty major technical developments – along with the addition of eye-catching colourways – KitchenAid has firmly cemented itself as a household name.
We’ve put a number of different stand mixers from the KitchenAid range to the test and found that they’re great for everything from classic bakes to challenging patisserie. With every stand mixer, you can whisk, beat and knead as standard. Plus, there’s a whole host of additional attachments and accessories to ensure you make the most of your new bit of kit. In this guide, we’ll be running you through every KitchenAid stand mixer, plus attachments, accessories and some handy advice to keep your new mixer in tip-top shape.
Ranging in price from around £450 to nearly £1000 for a professional model, KitchenAid stand mixers are a real investment piece. If you’re looking to save take a look at our guide to the best KitchenAid deals.
We encourage you to do your research to find which KitchenAid model is best for you, as each model offers something very different. Our guide to the best stand mixers houses everything you need to know before you buy. You’ll need bakeware, too – check out our best springform cake tins, best loaf tins, best bundt tins and best tart tins for perfect bakes every time.
KitchenAid offers three different sizes of stand mixer: small, medium and large. Within the medium and large categories, there are a couple of different models. Although all models on the KitchenAid website are suitable for home baking, those in the large category are very large, so are, in our opinion, better suited to those churning out bake after bake on an almost daily basis. The small- and medium-sized models are more than enough for even the most industrious home baker.
KitchenAid Mini
Alone in the small category sits the KitchenAid mini. This model comes with a 3.3-litre mixing bowl, offering a maximum working capacity of eight egg whites, 1.8kg cake mix or 30 four-inch cookies. It comes with three attachments: a wire whisk, dough hook and beater, and is compatible with all other KitchenAid attachments.
Equipped with a 4.3-litre mixing bowl, the Classic is a step up from the Mini. Although only a small jump up in terms of wattage (275W, compared to the Mini’s 250W), this model has been designed to tackle larger quantities. For example, its maximum working capacity for cake mix is 2.5kg. While KitchenAid is known for its bright and varied colours, the Classic range stands out for being only available in black or white.
Perhaps KitchenAid’s most well-known product, the KitchenAid Artisan is the biggest model in the medium-sized range. These KitchenAids come with a couple of different model codes. Simply put, each model code dictates what comes with the stand mixer, but at their very core, the actual engineering of the machine is the same.
5KSM125: Available in red, black, silver or cream and comes with nylon-coated dough hook and flat beater, and a wire whisk.
5KSM175: Available in the largest range of colours (13). Comes with nylon-coated dough hook, flex-edge beater and flat beater, and a wire whisk. This model comes with an additional 3-litre bowl and splash guard.
5KSM185: Available in seven colours and comes with a stainless steel dough hook, flat beater and wire whisk, plus an additional 3-litre bowl and splash guard.
5KSM195: KitchenAid’s colour of the year: hibiscus. Comes with silver-coated wire dough hook, flex-edge beater and flat beater, and a wire whisk. Also included is an additional 3-litre bowl, splash guard and bowl scraper.
5KSM180: KitchenAid’s limited-edition “Blossom” model. The 4.7-litre bowl is copper in the same texture as the hammered steel bowls. Stainless steel dough hook, flat beater, pastry beater and wire whisk included.
From the large collection of stand mixers comes the KitchenAid Bowl Lift range. Rather than having the traditional tilt head of the stand mixers above, as the name suggests, the main bowl sits on two pins on extending arms and simply lifts off. The Bowl Lift range is considerably taller than the other models, so may not fit underneath low-hanging cupboards. The main bowls in this range hold between 4.8 and 6.9 litres.
Artisan 5KSM60SPX: 325W. Comes with 5.6L stainless steel bowl, and a wire whisk, sliver-coated paddle and silver-coated spiral dough-hook. Available in black, white, red and pistachio.
Artisan 5KSM7580: 500W. Comes with 6.9-litre stainless steel bowl and wire whisk, a spiral dough hook and flat beater, plus a pouring shield. Currently available in classics Candy Apple and Empire Red.
Heavy Duty 5KSM7591: 500W. Comes with a 6.9-litre stainless steel bowl, plus nylon-coated dough hook and flat beater, wire whisk and pouring shield. Available in red or white.
Professional 5KSM7990: Includes a wire guard, 6.9-litre stainless steel bowl, dough hook, wire whisk and flat beater, plus a removable pouring chute that attaches to the wire guard. 325W. Available in white, red and silver.
KitchenAid vs Kenwood: how do the stand mixer brands compare?
They’re two of the biggest names in the world of stand mixers, with some die-hard baking fanatics even going so far as to get a tattoo of their favourite mixer.
KitchenAid is now owned by the Whirlpool Corporation, which owns a range of small and large domestic appliance brands. Kenwood’s parent company is the De’Longhi group, which is famous for its coffee machines, but the group also owns a few small domestic appliance and grooming brands.
Where KitchenAid’s stand mixers are similar in design aesthetically, Kenwood’s mixers look very different from collection to collection. Kenwood’s mixers are powered by a much higher wattage – often two or even three times the wattage than their KitchenAid counterparts – meaning they work through tough mixes with total ease. But, it’s worth remembering, the higher the wattage, the more energy the appliance uses when running.
KitchenAid’s stand mixers are a great choice for everyday baking, and many of the models we tested made light work of tough doughs. With a varied colour range and collection of accessories, KitchenAid’s mixers are also designed to be kept on display.
This model is great value for money. A mainstay on many of the best cooking shows, the KitchenAid Artisan is a stand mixer to keep on the kitchen counter. The basic model (5KSM125) comes with all the essential attachments, while the other Artisans come with a couple more that push the price up somewhat – consider whether the additions are worth the extra cost.
We found this model sturdy and powerful on test, working through a whole host of basic and challenging tests with absolute ease. The controls are intuitive and there are two simple levers: one to control the speed and one to lift or lock the head in place.
The Artisan is powered by 300W, which means dough comes together slower than expected, but this has no bearing on the overall result. This model produced just the results we were looking for in our cake and meringue tests.
Slightly smaller and 25W less powerful than the KitchenAid Artisan above, the Classic is a good option for cakes, meringues and light bakes, and not something to regularly make doughs with. Although it’s slow to bring mixes together, this caused no real problem in our meringue or cake tests, but the long and slow kneading process did result in some slightly tough buns.
It’s intuitive to use and practical to wash, but we were disappointed by the lack of small but simple features, like the bowl handle. We also found the slowest setting disconcertingly fast, meaning it sent plumes of flour and icing sugar into the air when we were only trying to slowly start the mix off.
For standard bakes, the Classic will get the job done.
One of the most compact stand mixers on the market, the KitchenAid Mini is essentially a scaled-down version of the stand mixers above. Equipped with a 3.3-litre bowl plus 10 speed settings and a half speed starter, this model is simple and intuitive to use.
Like the Classic above, we’d have liked to have had a handle on the main bowl, but we loved the soft-start half setting, which gently brought our mixes together.
We found the speed dial a little stiff to move up and down, but expect this to loosen up with use. The 250W motor lacked a little oomph when kneading bread dough, but produced glossy, stiff peaked meringues and smooth cake batter.
This is a space-saving option for the occasional baker.
Is the KitchenAid Artisan Bowl-Lift good value for money?
If you’re regularly catering for a crowd a bowl-lift mixer will offer a wider range of versatility thank to its large capacity. This new model comes with a 5.6L bowl which is the middle size available — other models cater for 4.8L or 6.9L. With 11 speeds to choose from, this is a powerful machine that easily handled all textures of mixture on test from light cake batter to thick enriched dough.
The design does take some getting used to, especially if you’re used to the tilt-head models. We found inserting and removing the bowl from the pins took a certain knack as there’s a clip and the back of the bowl to hold it in place. Once on though the bowl was certainly secure.
For semi-professional bakers this is certainly the model to go for.
KitchenAid has a whole host of attachments that fit onto the tilt head of the machine to transform your new stand mixer into a truly versatile piece of kit. These attachments fit into four categories, plus an extra for miscellaneous products.
KitchenAid mixer attachments for fresh pasta
Pasta press (six shapes): Make spaghetti, bucatini, rigatoni, fusilli and small or large macaroni. Available from KitchenAid (£158.40)
Pasta roller: Evenly roll pasta for lasagne, tagliatelle, linguine and more – no hand crank needed. Available from KitchenAid (£95.20)
Pasta cutters and roller three-piece set: As well as the roller above, this set includes cutters for spaghetti and fettuccine. Available from KitchenAid (£159.20)
KitchenAid mixer attachments for fruits and vegetables
Food processor: Dice, slice, shred and julienne with this attachment. Available from KitchenAid (£167.20)
Vegetable slicer and shredder: Slice and shred a whole host of produce for salads, slaws and more. Great for cheese, too. Available from KitchenAid (£87.20)
Vegetable shredder and grater: Additional shredding and grating inserts for the kit above. Available from KitchenAid (£68)
Spiralizer: Peel, core, slice and spiralize fruits and veg. Available from KitchenAid (£100)
Vegetable sheet cutter: Cut single sheets of fruits and vegetables for a range of dishes. Available from KitchenAid (£111.20)
Food strainer: Create jams, baby food, purées, sauces and compotes. Available from KitchenAid (£87.20)
Slow juicer: Turn fruits and veg into juice. Three pulp settings: low pulp, high pulp and saucing/jams. Available from KitchenAid (£151.20)
KitchenAid mixer attachments for ice cream
Ice cream maker: Pre-freeze bowl that allows you to make up to 1.9 litres of ice cream. Available from KitchenAid (£119.20)
Shave ice maker: Shave ice into fine and course textures for a light dessert. Available from KitchenAid (£103.20)
KitchenAid mixer attachments for meat
Meat grinder: Coarsely or finely grind meat for mince, or grind cheese, veg, nuts and more. Available from KitchenAid (£87.20)
Sausage stuffer: Control exactly what goes into your sausages and create fun, exciting flavours. Available from KitchenAid (£28)
Other KitchenAid mixer attachments
Sifter and scale: Accurately measure dry ingredients and sift straight into the mixer bowl. Available from KitchenAid (£135.20)
Grain mill: Create your own flour from any grain. Choose your coarseness, too, from super-fine to rougher flour. Available from Amazon (£182.99)
Best KitchenAid mixer accessories
As well as producing high-quality stand mixers, KitchenAid is all about customisation. Not only can you choose a stand mixer in pretty much whatever colour takes your fancy, there are also a selection of additional bowls that come in a variety of patterns, designs and materials.
Choose from ceramic, glass or classic stainless steel. The majority of the additional mixing bowls on the KitchenAid website are only suitable for the KitchenAid Classic and Artisan, but there are a few bowls for the KitchenAid Mini and the larger stand mixer range.
Short of baking your food, a KitchenAid stand mixer can do it all. All stand mixers in KitchenAid’s collection come equipped, as standard, with the tools needed to complete both simple and complex baking tasks.
The wire whisk is also your attachment of choice for the lightest angel food cake, genoise sponge and chiffon cake, like this Maltesers chocolate chiffon cake. It’s also great for whipping up cream quickly, too.
The flat beater and flex-edge beater perform the same task, but the flex-edge beater has an added silicone strip that hugs the bowl, scraping mixes back into the centre. This just reduces the need to stop the mixer and scrape down manually.
As the name suggests, the dough hook is best for all manner of doughs. Sweet or savoury, the dough hook mimics the rhythm of hand kneading for a smooth, springy dough. You’ll find a wealth of fantastic bread recipes on olive, including everything from easy sourdough to tomato, feta and rosemary bread. Sweet recipes include cardamom custard buns (skolebrød) (a recipe we use to test all stand mixers) and a chocolatey twist on a classic, in the form of chocolate hot cross buns.
Not just reserved for breads and enriched doughs, the dough hook is also great for homemade pasta. Take a look at olive’s homemade pasta recipes for inspiration.
How to clean your KitchenAid mixer
Both the body of the stand mixers and all the attachments are easy to clean.
Main body: When the stand mixer is off and unplugged, use simple dish soap, warm water and a soft cloth to wipe down the body. To keep the stainless steel accents shining, buff these with a microfibre cloth. Bowl: For total ease, the main stainless steel bowl is dishwasher-safe. Additional ceramic and glass bowls (which can be bought separately) are also dishwasher-safe. Alternatively, the bowls can be easily hand-washed. Just be sure to buff the stainless steel to remove any streaks. Attachments: The dough hook, flat beater and flex-edge beater are dishwasher-safe. The wire whisk is hand-wash only. We’d always recommend washing the attachments by hand to ensure their longevity. KitchenAid doesn’t provide any attachment storage, but we like to keep them stored in the bowl (line the bowl with a tea towel to keep both the bowl and attachments scratch-free).
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Alex Crossley<![CDATA[Shoreditch foodie guide: where to eat and drink]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=560502024-01-11T16:31:16Z2024-01-10T12:08:17Z
Looking for Shoreditch restaurants? Here are some of our favourite restaurants in east London’s buzzing borough around Old Street and Shoreditch High Street stations. Check out our ideas for eating and drinking in Shoreditch, from Brick Lane to Redchurch Street and beyond…
Bistro Freddie, Luke Street – for a neighbourhood bistro feel
Tucked in the quiet back streets between Shoreditch High Street and Old Street stations, almost another world from the hustle of east London that surrounds it, Bistro Freddie has a distinct classic neighbourhood bistro feel, offering generous, down-to-earth hospitality and a menu featuring the best produce of the British Isles. There’s an intimate 45-cover open-plan dining room and plenty of top-quality tipples focussing on small and predominantly independent producers and growers. bistrofreddie.com
Photograph: Oskar Proctor
Sohaila, Shoreditch Hight Street – for Modern Middle Eastern cuisine
Sohaila is a restaurant and natural wine bar created by social enterprise Fat Macy’s (which supports people in temporary accommodation via culinary training), serving modern Middle Eastern food. It’s named after founder Nathalie Moukarzel’s grandmother and a lot of the recipes are inspired by her. Dishes use local and sustainable ingredients, and the menu changes often to minimise food waste. Plates often include labneh and chilli butter, deep-fried mussels, and halloumi and figs. Cocktails use similar flavours, such as the martini overleaf. sohailarestaurant.com
BAO Noodle shop, Redchurch Street — for Taiwanese noodle bowls
The Taiwanese trio behind this mini pillowy bun empire have applied their signature style to this Shoreditch outpost — ruby red leather stools around blonde wood tables, soft globe wall lights and a white tiled bar, where staff in bespoke lab coats mix clever cocktails. An unusual sweet potato sour is creamy and silky with a sweet, earthy depth, and the old fashioned is given extra body from milk-washed whisky and Taiwanese tea. Small plates include crunchy Taiwanese fried chicken pieces, boiled cull yaw dumplings and crispy spring rolls filled with stretchy cheese and soy-cured jalapeños. Pillowy steamed buns are filled with the likes of prawn croquette with black garlic glaze and slow-cooked pork with a peanut crumb. Three noodle dishes join the regulars — the richer Taipei-style broth is topped with slow-cooked beef cheek and short rib, plus a dollop of spiced beef butter to melt through the silky homemade noodles. A lighter Tainan broth features rare sliced beef with melting edges of frilly fat, while sesame fried aubergine sits atop an umami-rich vegan kelp soup. Downstairs, there’s a karaoke den adorned with bespoke wallpaper for those who want to book for a bao-fuelled sing-along. baolondon.com
Padella, Phipp Street – for homemade pasta
From the brains behind Borough Market’s buzzing, booking-free pasta spot comes Padella 2.0, an industrial-style space that makes up for its cool interiors with a showstopping selection of antipasti and, you guessed it, pasta. A spacious open kitchen accommodates bar stools, or there are red wooden tables further away from the action. Wherever you sit, the larger space feels like you can linger over your linguine for longer. Start with a bitter, dark-berry blackcurrant americano (Campari, Hereford blackcurrant liqueur, fig leaf and soda) or sip a punchy gorgonzola-stuffed olive martini.
Every plate impresses, from sourdough with a crunch to the crust and satisfying chew to wobbly burrata in a pool of fruity Fiorano olive oil. You’d be missing a trick if you didn’t order at least half the pasta menu (there’s eight that change on the regular). Dexter beef shin ragu cooks for eight hours, clinging to the slippery sheets of pappardelle before being covered in frilly parmesan, while a Westcombe ricotta ravioli zings with lemon, sage and butter. Come for the pasta, stay for the puds. A sliver of seasonal tart (be it lemon, rhubarb and almond or salted caramel) will end things nicely – a buttery, short crust, light filling and dollop of cooling crème fraiche. padella.co
Llama Inn, The Hoxton – for modern Peruvian cuisine
Having built a cult following in New York, Juan Correa and chef Erik Ramirez have brought their critically acclaimed Llama Inn and its playful taste of Peru across the Atlantic, taking over the rooftop restaurant at The Hoxton hotel in east London. The menu draws inspiration from the chef’s Peruvian-American background and the drinks list features many of the original NYC signature serves alongside a wine list with a focus on low-intervention and biodynamic wines. thehoxton.com
Maene, Spitalfields – for British food in a striking setting
Blink and you’ll miss the entrance to Nick Gilkinson’s latest restaurant, marked with a subtle ‘M’ on a graffiti-clad backstreet in Shoreditch. Head upstairs past the yoga studio to a stunning room that was once a textile factory; white curtains waft against floor-to-ceiling windows, filament lightbulbs hang from lofty ceilings, and rough floorboards are lined with sweeping blue banquettes. There’s a separate concrete bar for cocktails and a soon-to-open large terrace with city views.
Kick off with caramelised whipped brown butter to slather onto Snapery sourdough. Leftovers of the latter are used to make a syrup for a smooth rye whisky old fashioned-style cocktail that shares the line up with other zero-waste drinks (other ingredients include potato skin liqueur, spirulina cordial and used coffee grounds), each with its own thought-out non-alcoholic counterpart. Starter-size dishes include whipped Sussex ricotta with jammy pickled beetroot and citrussy lemon thyme, and multicoloured Nutbourne tomatoes neatly arranged into a wafer-thin tart case. Seared slices of pork loin are accompanied by a hazelnut pesto, and whole Cornish sole is lifted with pickled fennel and Spitalfields City Farm greens whizzed into a bright, grassy sauce. Complement with crispy Morphew Farm heritage potatoes with smoked yogurt. maenerestaurant.co.uk
Daffodil Mulligan, Old Street – for Irish food
Chef Richard Corrigan’s partnership with fellow Irishmen John Nugent and Tony Gibney is an unapologetic tribute to Irish craic. The industrial Shoreditch space is modestly decorated with moody portraits of Irish legends – Sinéad O’Connor guides you down the stairs to the basement drinking den; while upstairs is where you’ll find the main restaurant, open kitchen, complete with a wood oven and grill, and oyster bar. Let chef be your guide with six sharing courses and a Gibney’s stout, or work your way around the snacks, small plates, oysters and grill. Dishes include fiery beef tartare served in an oyster shell with oyster cream and vongole, chicken and tarragon best mopped up with homemade soda bread, and cured collar of bacon with creamy mash and fresh pickled shallot rings. Many ingredients are sourced from Richard’s own estate in Ireland, Virginia Park Lodge – including smoky, wood-roasted carrots that punch way above their weight. Biscuity champagne and a light, very gluggable muscadet are winners on the wine list – but drinks nerds should explore the cocktails with infused spirits, from jalapeño-infused tequila in a blood orange margarita to chilli Aperol with mezcal, chocolate and orange bitters. daffodilmulligan.com
Manteca, Curtain Road – for nose-to-tail Italian cooking
Chefs Chris Leach and David Carter opened Manteca’s first permanent home on Curtain Road, Shoreditch, in November 2021 to rave reviews. Inspired by Chris’s travels through Italy, the focus is on nose-to-tail Italian cooking, with hand-rolled pasta, house-made salami, seasonal vegetables and wood-fired breads at the forefront. Expect hearty, knockout dishes including puffy clam flatbreads, a rich pig skin ragu, and rigatoni with a silky kale sauce served in a light, airy setting. There’s a carefully honed wine menu with classic bottles and bolder ‘down the rabbit hole’ wines, and an amari-focussed cocktail list making the most of the Italian herbal liqueur, featuring not-to-be-missed house-made amaro. mantecarestaurant.co.uk
Lilienblum, Old Street – for theatrical Israeli cuisine
Israeli chefs Eyal Shani and Oren King have joined forces to open a theatrical ode to Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food, where large groups cheer at celebrations, fresh tomatoes hold down brown paper tablecloths ready to be filled with sharing plates, and a sage burner is paraded round to mingle with spices from the tile-and-copper backed open kitchen. Reserve a spot at the counter to watch chefs stir fresh tomatoes through homemade pasta, bake pizza-like focaccia and grate horseradish over charcuterie-style sliced beetroot. Waiters help decipher playful menu items such as “6 spicy instruments that will swirl your soul”, aka a palate of salsa and spices to lift your dishes, and silky, smoky signature hummus topped with whole chickpeas and green chilli salsa. Meat dishes range from minute steak, prepared crisp like bacon and slathered in tahini, to the “dinosaur bone” short rib cooked over 24 hours. Seafood fans should try the light yet comforting clams slow cooked with springy farro. Strong contenders on the dessert menu include zesty pistachio cake and silky chocolate mousse with salted butter cookies. Pair with a smooth, tahini-laced espresso martini, or refreshing Oren’s Memories cocktail that evokes the aromas of the spice markets in Jerusalem. lilienblum.co.uk
Gloria, Great Eastern Street – for a fun group dinner
A Paris export bringing top-quality Italian food to the streets of east London in its own quirky, seriously OTT and raucous way. Gloria might call itself a “pure and traditional Italian trattoria” but this is signature Shoreditch (by way of Paris) – expect long queues, one-way-glass in the loos and overflowing plants, everywhere. In a nod to 50s Capri, the dining room mixes Carrara marble with colourful antique Italian ceramics, mirrored ceilings and velour banquettes. All produce is sourced from Italy and it shows. Order smoked stracciatella (if you can resist burrata from Puglia), accurately described on the playful menu as “bloody godsent”. If Instagrammable dishes are your bag then look no further than the La Gran Carbonara, for two to share, served in a giant wheel of pecorino, and the “incomparable” lemon pie with a promised 5.9-inch meringue layer. Neapolitan-style pizza is as it should be; big, blistered crust; a sloppy, well-seasoned San Marzano tomato sauce heart – and the spicy “Robert de Nitro” toppings of mozzarella, ricotta, candied onions and salame piccante. There are plenty of classic cocktails to choose from but Gloria’s trophy negroni is unlike anything you’ll see elsewhere in London, with unusual additions of porcini mushroom wine and a truffle foam. Wines are all Italian, naturally. bigmammagroup.com
Casa do Frango, King John Court – for Portuguese food
This two-floor Shoreditch spot is the second Portuguese chicken joint from Casa do Frango. Start in Bar da Casa on the ground floor, where cocktails have pleasing Portuguese twists – such as a dash of tawny port in a punchy old fashioned, or tropical Licor Beirão to lace the caipirinha-like Caipirão. Continue upstairs in the candlelit dining room where long wooden tables, dusty pink banquettes and plenty of plants fit neatly round curved walls with floor-to-ceiling windows. Friendly Portuguese staff are keen to share wine knowledge and recommend dishes like their grandmas used to make. Try a selection of petiscos (small plates) served in terracotta dishes – shell-on prawns slathered in a garlicky white wine piri piri sauce and deep-fried salgadinhos (empanadas stuffed with caramelised onion, kale and mushrooms). The main event is succulent chicken with crispy, sticky piri-piri skin and extra-hot piri-piri sauce on the side. Accompany with a refreshing chopped salad of tomatoes, cucumber, onions and green peppers or African rice studded with tiny peas, plantain pieces and chorizo, with crisp chicken skin on top to add crunch. Leave room for a delicate, cinnamon-laced custard tart, fresh and warm from the oven. casadofrango.co.uk
BRAT, Redchurch Street – for sharing plates
Brat, slang for turbot – the much ordered and much Instagrammed star dish on the menu at this former Shoreditch strip bar – is grilled over an open wood fire grill to much dramatic effect, along with more prime ingredients. Order the Cornish moorland beef chop – slices of ruby red meat with a darkly charred bark, come lined up like dominos, their border of gamey yellow fat almost better than the meat itself. Italian tomatoes, on the side, are simply quartered, seasoned and drenched in an olive oil so peppery it catches in your throat. The rest of the menu follows the trend for sharing plates – small snacks up to giant platters. Chopped egg salad with bottarga, and bouncy, blistered, pillow-soft grilled flatbread, topped with curls of salty anchovy fillets. Sweet langoustines with earthy spikes of roasted rosemary are barely licked by the flames – still daringly see through. Spider crab, cabbage and fennel salad is refreshingly different – a careful dance between the sweet shellfish, brassica pepperiness and aniseed hit, lemon zest and chervil. For dessert try a Tomos Parry classic, brown bread ice cream marbled with marmalade. The wine list lives up to its promise, too – curated with the help of the cool gang at Noble Rot – there’s plenty for the chipper team to recommend, from supremely sippable sherries, to the grown-up Koehler-Ruprecht riesling trocken. bratrestaurant.com
Photo credit Ben McMahon
Apothecary, Charlotte Road — for Tokyo-inspired izakaya dishes
Though its concept is a bit different from the more traditional, informal izakaya you might find in Japan, Apothecary does bring the social aspect of these Tokyo bars with its two softly divided spaces — a sophisticated dining area serving ‘drinking food’, spilling into a smart bar with live DJ sessions over the weekend. The spacious restaurant is contemporary and bright, with Shoreditch-worthy exposed brick, sleek crescent-shaped booths and wooden partitions, and a clear view of the kitchen assembling its Japanese-inspired small plates: buns, sushi, tempura, yakitori-style skewers and sashimi arrive promptly at the table as they’re ready. Highlights on the menu are yellowtail tiradito, combining the fresh fish with zingy yuzu-soy and jalapeño prawn dragon sushi rolls with crisp tempura in the centre; and the vegan grilled cauliflower with a perfectly paired black sesame sauce. It’s worth trying a side of furikake rice, too, with its umami depth from the nori. Pair these with one of the impressive drinks offerings: plum wine from Japan’s Yamagata Prefecture, or a punchy cocktail, like the sweet pea spritz (tequila shaken with sweet pea syrup and absinthe) or sesame old fashioned.
This is a relaxed, affordable bistro, and the sort of place we want to hang out in every damn day. Olive-green tables are gold trimmed, school chairs have red-leather cushions, there’s dark, marble-topped counters and an open kitchen that feels like Brooklyn – but better. The drinks are a draw, from deliciously puckering rhubarb house soda and aromatic vermouth spritzes to a long list of low-intervention, natural wines (although only a few by the glass). When it comes to the food, simplicity and flavour are key – so everything on the menu appeals. One to two plates per person, with a couple of snacks to share for good measure, should do it. Quail skewers are so tender, still pink inside, with a sticky and hot honey sauce. Caramelised and moreish, the tingly heat that gently lingers is a reminder of just how good they were. Ricotta dumplings, under a cloud of parmesan, are like edible pillows sent from heaven, crashing down to earth in their bed of early summer peas and courgette. Don’t miss Muscat crème caramel for dessert – explicit in its wobble, unapologetic with its boozy flirting. leroyshoreditch.com
Som Saa, Commercial Street – for Thai food
The interior of this popular Thai restaurant wears that trendy East London warehouse look well – it’s a former fabric warehouse – with a mix of exposed brick, thick, battered wooden tabletops, steel girders and tanks of beer from Camden Town Brewery. The staff are really good – friendly, passionate, knowledgeable, efficient. Many have been with the chefs (Andy Oliver and Mark Dobbie who both previously worked at Nahm with chef-patron and Thai food guru David Thompson) from the beginning. But, of course, it’s the food that draws these sorts of crowds: uncompromising, regional Thai. We’re recommended to order four to five dishes between two after sampling a cocktail each. Bangkok-style Som tam Thai screeched with flavour – salt, sour, and chilli fire. Sticky rice was addictively good and the ideal carrier for a mellow, sticky Burmese-style curry (gaeng hung lay) of pork belly and shoulder, topped with pickled garlic and ginger. Nahm dtok pla thort (whole deep-fried sea bass) looked terrifying, but hacking into the crisp, roasted rice-coated skin, gave way to the most tender flesh, and was perked up with sprightly dressed Isaan herbs. For dessert, jackfruit poached in coconut cream and palm sugar ice cream with grilled banana are worth a try.
Seed Library, Shoreditch – for sophisticated cocktails
Ryan Chetiyawardana’s latest venture is a slinky drinking den in the basement of the One Hundred Shoreditch hotel. Whereas his flagship bar – Lyaness at Sea Containers in Southbank – showcases a high-concept approach to mixology, Seed Library is deliberately more casual and low key. Walk-ins are encouraged and the space, with its sultry lighting, wood-panelled walls, red velvet chairs and warm palette, feels retro and slightly louche, yet very welcoming. Expect elevated riffs on cocktail classics. Sansho Leaf Martini with Belvedere vodka, Cocchi dry vermouth and green sansho oil is clean and delicate, and subtly savoury. A Coriander Seed Gimlet is gorgeously executed, clean and citrussy with a backbone of gentle, warming spice. Galangal Pencillin swaps the traditional peated whisky for tequila and mezcal, and adds aromatic galangal for a vibrant, smoky cocktail. Bar snacks are winningly hearty, and moreish – expect the likes of deep-fried chicken hearts, beef short rib croquettes and potato smileys.
Genesis, Shoreditch – for vegan fast food
Organic, vegan fast food eaten against a backdrop of bubble gum-pink banquettes, neon signs and original graphic art. It’s all very Shoreditch. Expect a menu bulging with magically meat-free burgers, hot dogs and tacos. There’s also mac ‘n’ cheese, made with a type of ancient grain called kamut, with its dairy-defying creamy sauce and sweet edge, and roasted turmeric cauliflower. Desserts include vegan ice cream sundaes, while cocktails are fun to drink (try the vividly purple ‘sacred spritz’, made with vodka, lemongrass and blue matcha). eatgenesis.com
Voodoo Ray’s, Kingsland High Street – for pizza slices
For some of the best slice of pizza in London, head to Voodoo Ray’s for a New York style slice. With four locations across London, this joint bakes 22-inch pizzas topped with everything from wild mushroom, squash and red onion; salt beef, sauerkraut and emmental and a vegan option, piled high with artichoke hearts and green olives. If you fancy a pizza pie for brunch, Voodoo Ray’s serve 10” pizzas on the weekend topped with classic eggs and bacon or a veggie spinach and ricotta version. With a selection of craft beers (think Beavertown, Red Hook and Kona) and frozen margaritas on offer, Voodoo Ray’s is the place to go for a late-night munch. voodoorays.com
Crispin, Spitalfields – for brunch
This all-day and night café can be found on a quiet corner just off Spitalfields and Liverpool Street Station. In a quirky, purpose-built zinc and glass pavilion, designed to look like an origami-folded bird, light pours into the back onto the cool polished concrete bars, and terrazzo-topped ash bar. There’s Assembly coffee from Brixton during the day, and at night Fernando Berry of Otros Vinos has helped curate a rotating wine list focussing on natural and low-intervention wines. Breakfast starts at 7.30am and covers the classics, alongside trendy new contenders. There’s an organic bacon sandwich with house ketchup; bright-yolked, boiled Burford Brown eggs with Dusty Knuckle Bakery soldiers; and Secret Smokehouse (made in London Fields) on sourdough (check out our guide to sourdough here) with soft cheese, lemon and dill. There’s avo on toast, too, plus scrambled eggs with chives and parmesan, and overnight oats with kefir, toasted seeds and compote. Order the super-crunchy, smoked ham toastie – oozing with melted cheddar, topped with a crispy fried egg and showered in finely grated, nutty Berkswell cheese. crispinlondon.com
Old Spitalfields Market, Spitalfields – for street food
Spitalfields Market has a selection of street-food traders right at its heart. Berber & Q, Dumpling Shack and Monty’s Deli are a few familiar faces, but there are new names, too, including seasonal fresh pasta from Sood Family and traditional Taiwanese dishes from JiaBa. Don’t miss out on nose-to tail hearty dishes from Flank (by Brighton chef Tom Griffiths), including bone-marrow crumpets with tender beef cheeks and Marmite sauce. For dessert, head along to Happy Endings for indulgent ice-cream sandwiches and next-level hot chocolates.
Founder David Carter launched his US-style smoked and barbecued meat stall onto the capital’s street food scene in 2013. Since then Barbadian David, who previously worked front of house at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, The Savoy Grill and Roka, has grown a reputation in London and beyond (praise the lord for the UK food festival circuit) for his USDA brisket, pork and beef ribs. Ribs – beef and pork – collapses from the bone with only the merest nudge. Pigtails, cut into bitesize chunks are fiddly with the bones still intact, but this isn’t a place for airs and graces, or cutlery. It’s a place to gnaw, and spit out bones. Pastrami with sour cabbage and pickles is moreish – rudely blushing pink – amongst the dark, sticky plates that continue to stack up.
Dishoom, Boundary Street – for Bombay brasserie-style outings
Inspired by the all-day Irani cafés that were an integral part of Bombay life, there are now five branches of Dishoom in London (and another in Edinburgh and Manchester), each serving Bombay breakfast, lunch, afternoon chai and dinner.Breakfasts at Dishoom have won a cult following. Not least for the bacon naan rolls – crisp bacon wrapped in tandoor-charred naan with a dollop of chilli tomato jam and cream cheese. Pair with a breakfast lassi or house chai.
The busy City Road in Shoreditch seems an unlikely setting for a stylish, subterranean speakeasy bar but that’s exactly where you’ll find Nightjar. On the outside, a tall wooden door sandwiched between two cafés is the only evidence of its existence, but go inside and discover a plush space replete with candlelit tables, leather banquette seating and flatteringly dim lighting. The bar’s characteristically detailed drinks menu riffs on old cocktail recipes (ranging from the pre-prohibition to post-war periods) but adds its own twist. Try the Honeymoon – a short, fresh yet punchy blend of Glenfiddich 21-year-old whisky, Nightjar’s ‘forbidden fruit liqueur’ (a mix of citrussy pomelo, sherry and dry vermouth), Cynar, mead, lemon and geranium leaf. It’s a complex drink, dry and delicately smoky, with subtle honey and aniseed notes. Drink nerds should investigate the bar’s vintage spirits menu, which is full of rare, aged spirits dating from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. barnightjar.com
The Buxton, Spitalfields – for a slicked up boozer
A former Brick Lane boozer turned polished pub-with-rooms, reimagined by the team behind Commercial Street’s The Culpeper. The heart of the action occurs in the slickly refurbished Victorian pub, on the ground floor (there are bedrooms and a roof terrace above). Tall, graceful arched windows introduce plenty of light, while a sweeping rosso levanto marble counter acts as a stylish focal point. Diners sit at a polished, oxblood-coloured counter that surrounds a compact open kitchen. Food is affordably priced, with an emphasis on prime produce and seasonality. Meat (high-welfare native breeds from Swaledale in Yorkshire) is butchered in-house, and fish comes from day boats on the south coast. Simple dishes don’t stray far from British and European classics – the pithy menu covers everything from cottage pie to homemade tagliatelle – but they are well executed and deliver on flavour. The wine list is made up of Old World vintages – we had a mineral chardonnay and a silky malbec – while a short cocktail list riffs on classics. Bar snacks include charcuterie and cheese boards, terrines and rillettes, plus classics such as scotch eggs and chips with aïoli. thebuxton.co.uk
With an impressively modest flat rate (including breakfast and a welcome drink) for every room, this an astute option for solo travellers who have outgrown hostels, or those looking for a comfortable yet affordable base in this fashionable and often pricey part of London. Doubles from £135, check availability at booking.com.
Laurel’s On The Roof, Shoreditch – for rooftop cocktails
This rooftop bar at the Mondrian hotel in Shoreditch is inspired by 70s-era Laurel Canyon in Los Angeles, with a retro, laid-back aesthetic of low-slung rattan chairs and pendant lamps, neon signage, strings of lights and bold chunky patterns. Think luxe pool party and you’re not far off (and there actually is a pool, which you can use if you’re staying at the Mondrian). The bar is mostly covered, but if it’s sunny nab a seat outside to enjoy 360-degree views of the surrounding city. Cocktails are fun and crowd-pleasing – sip on a zesty, long and refreshing Japanese Garibaldi with Campari, yuzu, agave, grapefruit and lime, or a frozen spicy margarita with an earthy, poky kick thanks to tequila, mezcal and Empirical Ayuuk. There’s also an all-day menu of snacks and bigger, retro-inspired dishes – try the OTT Malibu shrimp cocktail with fat chunky prawns, and the pleasingly hearty cobb salad. sbe.com/hotels/mondrian/shoreditch/dining/laurels
Boundary Hotel, Boundary Street – for rooftop vibes
In fast-changing Shoreditch, Boundary is virtually prehistoric. Which is a compliment. Opened in 2009, the fact that this hotel – part of the Prescott & Conran empire – is still buzzing means it got its recipe for classy but unpretentious food, wine and bedrooms right from the off.
In the basement is a small bar serving classic cocktails, and the main Boundary Restaurant, an elegant, boudoir-ish, space that wallows in the gloom, with theatrical lighting bouncing off red velvet chairs, the glass walls of its kitchen and polished cutlery. The menu here also has a strong French influence, with dishes such as roast and confit duck with a cherry sauce and salardaise potatoes and herb-crusted rack of lamb, and a good-value menu du jour (there’s also a wine club, for tastings and events, should the all-French wine list not sate your thirst).
In summer the Boundary Rooftop is the ideal spot to rise above the streetside hustle and sip cocktails as the sun sets over a slightly hushed, 360-degree view of London. It’s by no means out of bounds in winter, though, with its heaters, blankets and covered pergola; shelter under a string of fairy lights with a seasonal cocktail and a sharing plate of octopus and chorizo skewers, or fish or meat dishes cooked on a Robata grill. Or just head up after dinner and sit by the outdoor fireplace nursing a digestive glass of vielle prune.
The real hub of the hotel, however, is Albion, an all-day café, shop and bakery on the ground floor, plus various other outlets around the city. For overnight guests, this is also where breakfast is served. There’s a grown-up vibe but an on-trend menu, stretching to a range of cold-pressed juices, marmite scrolls from the bakery and a ‘healthy’ range of cooked breakfasts.
Bull in a China shop, Shoreditch High Street – for whisky cocktails
Bull in a China Shop specialises in rotisserie chicken and whisky. The chicken is brined for four hours before being left to marinate for a further 24 hours in a mix of Asian spices and yogurt. It’s then finished with a deliciously-dark, sticky whisky glaze. The result is such incredibly succulent, richly flavoured meat that you’ll have to exercise a great amount of willpower not to finish a whole one by yourself. Pair this with some cauliflower cheese fritters and spicy mayo (we’re obsessed), guacamole salad, and house slaw with mooli. As for drinks, it’s all about whisky. Take a seat at the gleaming copper bar and watch the staff hand-carve the ice for your chosen dram from a 30-strong selection of Japanese and Scotch whiskies.
Passione Vino, Leonard Street – for wine
Wine importers Luca Dusi and Federico Bruschetta have run this Shoreditch shop since 2013, supplying Italian wines from 75 different producers to top restaurants including Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and The River Café. Behind the shop itself is a ‘secret bar’ which also spills downstairs to the basement with small tables which can be booked. There’s no wine list or menu as customers are encouraged to discuss their tastes so the team can recommend something just a little out of their comfort zone.
London’s The Cheese Bar swaps the big city for the rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales. Primely positioned with a view of Ingleborough mountain and next to one of the best cheese shops in the country, The Courtyard Dairy, the restaurant integrates the finest artisan cheeses into its menu of wood-fired pizzas, British cheeseboards and matching wines. thecheesebar.com/rind
Photograph: Jo Ritchie
York Minster Refectory, York
Best known for his Michelin-starred Yorkshire pub The Star Inn at Harome, chef Andrew Pern also operates two York restaurants: The Star Inn the City on the River Ouse, and York Minster Refectory. Opened this summer in a Grade II listed former school neighbouring the Minster, Refectory sees Andrew and executive chef Joshua Brimmell exploring their love of classically influenced, modern British cookery. Dishes might include beetroot-cured monkfish with shaved fennel, lovage and sherry vinegar; Yorkshire game haslet with duck fat parkin; or roast butternut squash and sage pithivier. yorkminsterrefectory.co.uk
Madre, Manchester
A collaborative homage to Mexico, Madre opened in Liverpool in 2019, where its Albert Dock site includes a large summer terrace with DJs. In June, a second Madre opened in Manchester at canalside development, Kampus. Created by chefs Nud Dudhia and Sam Grainger, the Manchester site’s evolving menu has retained Madre’s trademark tacos and snacks, including sweetcorn with chipotle mayo and queso fresco, while expanding to include ceviche, oysters and wood-fired grill dishes, such as Sinaloan-style prawns, adobo mayo and salsa diablo, or beef wing rib, grilled jalapeños, masa onion rings and potatoes. thisismadre.co.uk
Embers, Brighton
Tucked away deep within the maze-like Lanes, this joint venture from two well established Brighton chefs, Isaac Bartlett-Copeland (Isaac At) and Dave Marrow (Terre à Terre), sees the pair cooking every dish on the menu on a Medieval-style fire cage over kiln-dried ash and birch wood. The vibe in this intimate venue is buzzy and informal, the interiors themed around charcoal walls, grey rock plates and smoke-effect cutlery, and quirky features including wall-mounted charred cross sections of tree trunk, stacks of firewood and a long industrial-style banquette backed with gridiron. A gentle smokiness fills the air, and diners have the option to eat at the kitchen counter overlooking all the open-fire theatrics. The seasonal menu is primarily made up of smaller sharing plates plus larger centrepiece dishes (with the likes of aged pork tomahawk). Once you’ve ordered, the dishes arrive at breakneck speed, and standouts included soused mackerel with little cubes of sharp Bramley apple, earthy beetroot sauerkraut and thick dollops of labneh; beautifully charred, tender chicken leg with smoky ’nduja-infused aioli; and flaky, scorched sea bream matched with sweet smacked cucumber and nutty, chewy grains. The cocktails are good, too – we enjoyed the smooth, refreshing lychee martini – and save space for a gorgeously creamy retro banana split with toffee sauce and fragrant rosemary and parsnip ice cream. embersbrighton.co.uk
Higher Ground, Manchester
Created by the team behind acclaimed natural wine bar, Flawd, Higher Ground restaurant is a bigger showcase for chef Joseph Otway’s creative use of British, seasonal, sustainable produce. Opened in February at Faulkner House, this hip restaurant is buying in whole animals from small rare-breed producers and using flavour-forward local, heritage ingredients, many from its Nantwich partner farm, Cinderwood Market Garden. Expect to see this superlative produce deployed in dishes such as home-smoked beetroot and brill roe, salt-baked celeriac, bay leaf and preserved blueberries, bonein pork chop with nasturtium dressing, or burnt Manchester honey tart. highergroundmcr.co.uk
Ford Road, Margate
One of Margate’s iconic seafront buildings restored to its former life as a hotel. The cosy ground- floor restaurant serves Kentish wine, local gin and the likes of silky trout lifted with Hinxden Farm Dairy crème fraîche and crostini topped with creamy cannellini beans, and pork sautéed in parsley mustard sauce. Breakfast is a real treat, too. fortroadhotel.com
Climat, Manchester
Manchester’s Climat, the second venue from Chester’s Covino team, is a wine-led rooftop restaurant, where the 300-bottle list ranges from classic grand crus (in Burgundy, a climat is a unique, prized vineyard plot), to hip orange, pét-nat or small-producer wines from less-celebrated areas. Executive chef Luke Richardson’s love of the new wave of informal, internationalist Parisian bistros informs Climat’s menu, created with head chef Simon Ulph. Signature vol-au-vents sit alongside sharing plates of, for example, sardines, salsa verde, lemon and pine nuts; tandoori quail, chilli carrot salad and lime pickle; or duck with clementine and radicchio. restaurantclimat.co.uk
The White Horse, Cheshire
The seventh opening from Gary Usher’s Elite Bistros is a first for the acclaimed north-west restaurant group: a village pub. Suitably for a building at the heart of the local community, Churton’s White Horse reopened amid much public goodwill. A crowdfunding campaign, mainly based around pre-selling meals at Elite Bistros restaurants, smashed its target, hitting £223,748 in 24 hours. Chef Josh Robbins’ menu mixes modish influences (buttermilk fried chicken, a salt ’n’ pepper-style crispy seitan salad) with more trad pub dishes such as curried lamb pie, an 18oz dry-aged sharing steak and Elite Bistros’ legendary truffled parmesan chips. thewhitehorsechurton.co.uk
Exhibition, Manchester
Exhibition is a novel concept: a restaurant where you can order simultaneously from three independent kitchens. These include the acclaimed Basque-inspired Baratxuri, Scandi-influenced OSMA and, at the time of writing, Osmatxuri – a collab in the former Sao Paulo Bistro kitchen, ahead of a new operator taking that space. Snack informally on pintxos and plates of crispy chicken thigh with teriyaki mayo or smoked cod’s roe, or go big with baked lobster in herb butter or Baratxuri’s sharing txuleton steak of Galician ex-dairy beef. The open-plan space includes a large bar, with DJs until 1am at the weekend. exhibitionmcr.co.uk
Furna, Brighton
Furna is chef Dave Mothersill’s first solo venture, having earned his chops on the Brighton scene at the likes of perennial favourites The Salt Room and The Gingerman. The understated venue, opposite the Pavilion, features leather banquettes, elegant small dining tables and a counter at close quarters to the open kitchen where guest can dine while watching the chefs at work.
On offer is a regularly changing menu of small sharing plates. Dishes are bold and the flavour combinations unusual, but the results are spectacular – standouts included a honey and thyme Parker House roll with umami-rich roasted yeast butter and creamy smoked cod’s roe with a slick of grassy parsley oil to slather over; buttery soft milk-brined veal sweetbread with a crunchy roasted rice coating, subtly sweet Delica pumpkin and a meaty chicken reduction; and an al dente mushroom pappardelle ripiene singing with intense black garlic and tangy aged parmesan.
The paired wines are just as audacious as the food – including intriguing bottles from Greece, Japan and the South Downs. Inventive cocktails are worth exploring, too, each focussed on a single ingredient, such as tangy, smoky stem ginger and an earthy beetroot number with a welcome boozy kick. furnarestaurant.co.uk
The Boot, Cirencester
A cosy Cotswolds pub with a gourmet edge, The Boot in Barnsley is run by the team behind London’s The Chelsea Pig. Sit by the fire with local ales and seasonal dishes including a winter garden salad, Gloucester Old Spot pork chop with Hawkstone cider sauce, and beef wellington served with truffle mash. barnsleyhouse.com/the-boot
Tutto, Brighton
The Black Rock Group has a sound reputation in Brighton, with its roster of restaurants, including The Salt Room, Burnt Orange and The Coal Shed, already firm favourites with local diners. Tutto is the latest offering, an Italian restaurant set in a former banking hall on the outskirts of the North Laine.
The high-ceilinged interior, with its grand arched windows overlooking a small alfresco seating area out front, has stylish art deco touches and large, colourful, graphic art adorning the walls. The vibe around the small bistro-style tables is intimate and relaxed, with low lighting and mellow background music.
The menu follows the classic Italian format of cicchetti, antipasti, primi and secondi, and there’s also a set menu if you’d prefer to delegate your choices. Opening options include buttery bone marrow with parmesan and gremolata on crisp toasts, and long-stemmed broccoli fritto with ‘nduja aïoli. The standout dish is the tagliatelle cacio e pepe with black truffle, the pasta cooked perilously close but just the right side of al dente, and the irresistibly silky sauce suffused with a perfectly judged hit of pepper. The roasted sea bass in an autumnal wild mushroom, shallot and confit garlic sauce was also excellent, the fish beautifully succulent, complemented nicely with a side of chilli-spiked brassicas.
The drinks menu is almost exclusively Italian, featuring red and white wines grouped by region, the common characteristics of each area helpfully explained. The cocktails remain faithful to the country, too, with four varieties of negroni on offer, and a stunning slushie-like sgroppino our favourite on the night. tutto-restaurant.co.uk
Sète, Margate
The duo behind cult spot Barletta has opened a cosy wine bar in seaside town Margate. Taking inspiration from French neighbourhood tabacs, sharing snacks include pâté en croute with pickled gherkins, potted smoked prawns and French onion tart. The eclectic, revolving wine list puts the spotlight on female winemakers, Eastern European vineyards and Kentish growers. setemargate.com
The Mess, Tisbury, Wiltshire
Galápagos Islands-born chef Ana Ortiz (previously Pythouse Kitchen Garden and The Newt) celebrates South American flavours in a new restaurant, café and deli in the former dairy building of thatched Wiltshire arts centre Messums. Ana serves up vibrant dishes, including Somerset beef empanadas, red quinoa tortilla with fermented cherry tomatoes and Wiltshire pork with achiote pasta and coal-roasted new potatoes. messumswiltshire.com
MUSU, Manchester
Chef patron Michael Shaw (previously at Le Manoir) heads up this contemporary space, hosting Japanese tasting menus that intertwine the finest ingredients from Japan with fresh UK produce. There is also an omakase experience at head sushi chef Andre Aguiar’s six-seat counter, along with premium sake and Japanese whisky pairings. musumcr.com
Boys Hall, Ashford
Boys Hall near Ashford, Kent, is a pub and restaurant with rooms in a beautifully converted 17th-century house. There is an ambitious menu overseen by MasterChef: The Professionals’ Robbie Lorraine featuring lobster doughnuts, house-cured salmon with balsamic pearls, Marmite-glazed celeriac steak, and local wines including a decent fizz by Simpsons. Lunch at £25 for two courses is a good deal. boys-hall.com
Catch at the Old Fish Market, Weymouth
Upstairs at the Old Fish Market, Catch has a vaulted timber roof and harbour views. The menu is crafted around the fish landed just outside the restaurant. ‘Local’ and ‘sustainable’ are top of mind for the rest of the menu too, with meat and game from the Dorset countryside and tomatoes from the Isle of Wight. You can also enjoy a mix of celebrated and lesser-known wines from Dorset, Hampshire and further afield.
The simplicity of the restaurant’s interior is echoed in the menu, with just a handful of dishes to choose from for each course. This translates to elegant plating – it’s no surprise that executive chef Mike Naidoo has names like Pollen St Social on his CV. As you’d expect with a sustainability-focused menu, it changes daily. We devoured a starter of crab with crab toastie and lobster agnolotti. Cod with wild garlic, cauliflower and cockles was delicate and delicious. We also took the waiter’s suggestion of crab potatoes to share – a bowl of crushed new potatoes mixed with crabmeat hidden under crab bisque. The tarte tatin was a well-executed finish.
The restaurant was busy when we visited on in March, so book early in summer when crowds descend. catchattheoldfishmarket.com
Dulse, Edinburgh
Chef Dean Banks puts the spotlight on Scottish seafood at his first-floor neighbourhood restaurant in Edinburgh’s West End. International twists liven up the fish that’s straight off the boats, including lobster crumpet with yuzu brown butter, seared hake with kimchi hollandaise and baked North Sea cod in Goan curry. The wine and cocktail bar downstairs is great for a pre-dinner aperitif, such as the signature pepper dulse and Lunun Gin martini. dulse.co.uk
Yellowhammer, Stockport
Where the Light Gets In chef Sam Buckley is joining forces with sourdough baker Rosie Wilkes and potter Joe Hartley to open a bakery, deli and pottery in Stockport in early 2022. There will be freshly-baked loaves, swirly buns, sweet bakes and sandwiches during the day, with sourdough pizza and natural wine events on select evenings. instagram.com/yellowhammer_stockport
2021’s best UK restaurant openings
Barletta, Margate
Kentish produce shines in seasonal dishes with an iconic seaside view
Nestled into a corner of Margate’s Turner Contemporary gallery, Barletta is a celebration of Kent’s producers, artists and chefs. The space is split into two halves – one side works as an all-day café, with freshly baked treats including rhubarb tart, tahini brownies and brown butter cookies on display. A grey booth slides down one wall of the more formal dining room, adorned with a tablescape mural by local artist Megan Metcalf; a riot of carrots, citrus and wine sketches. Floor-to-ceiling windows are dressed with seasonally changing dried flowers, framing views of Margate’s landmarks, from the harbour to the higgledy-piggledy old town and seaside-kitsch Dreamland sign. Kick off with a glass of strikingly dry organic prosecco or biodynamic Alsace crémant. Homemade focaccia is doused in pools of vibrant green Kentish rapeseed oil alongside a manzanilla olive tapenade, and burrata is dressed with bright and citrussy pickled radicchio. Gnocchi-like pillows of homemade cavatelli pasta are doused in a rich, meaty Italian sausage ragu, while a soupy gorgonzola and walnut risotto is made extra rich by swirling through a perfectly formed egg yolk. Finish lunch by pouring thick chocolate ganache over baked-to-order brown butter madeleines while the sun sets over the sandy bay, bathing the restaurant in a balmy golden glow. barletta.co.uk
Pine, Northumberland
Cal Byerley (ex Forest Side, Rogan & Co and Jesmond Dene House) and his partner Sîan Buchan have created a unique ode to their home county at Vallum Farm. The converted cow barn boasts views over Northumberland landscapes, from which many ingredients for the tasting menu and afternoon tea are plucked. Dry-aged carrots and lovage dress Berwick Edge cheese, and artichoke and blackened pear rotate seasonally beside langoustine. restaurantpine.co.uk
Linden Stores, Cheshire
Wine expert Laura Christie (co-founder of Oklava) and husband Chris Boustead have reopened their Islington wine bar and bistro in the canalside village of Audlem. Scarborough-born chef Chris takes inspiration from hearty Yorkshire cooking to create seasonal twists such as bubble and squeak croquettes with Bovril mayo, braised short rib with celeriac purée and Yorkshire parkin. Laura has curated a list of unique, great-value wines to drink on site or at home. lindenstores.co.uk
The Palmerston, Edinburgh
Bakery and coffee shop by day, cosy neighbourhood restaurant by night
The Palmerston inhabits a former bank in Edinburgh’s West End, a history that is reflected in the room’s grand dimensions, although dark green painted walls, warm wooden floors and tables and paintings by local artists give the space a more casual neighbourhood bistro vibe. Owners James Snowdon and Lloyd Morse keep things ticking from 9am with a morning menu of fresh pastries and coffee but come lunch and dinnertime it moves into more serious cooking territory. The concise menu changes daily depending on what’s available from local suppliers and cooking is confident and hearty with a focus on nose-to-tail eating. A generous slab of Mangalitsa and rabbit terrine is dense, peppery, porky and mildly gamey served with cornichons and warm grilled sourdough. Courgette salad comes with a piquant lemony, herby dressing and little bursts of crunch and creaminess from toasted walnuts and goat’s curd. Fish cooking is on point – a perfectly pan-fried chunk of monkfish is served on a bed of pretty rainbow chard and charlotte potatotoes, then topped with a salty, umami black olive dressing. We manage to fit in a slice of Victoria plum and hazelnut tart at the insistence of our server and it’s a delight – crisp pastry, dense warm frangipane and sweet plums – a memorable end to a faultless meal. thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk
Lilac, Lyme Regis, Dorset
Harriet Mansell’s restaurant and wine bar is a thing of local and seasonal beauty
Lilac breathes new life into a 400-year-old cellar, with flagged floors and exposed stone walls complemented by muted colours and simple furnishings.
The menu is a neat offering of small plates with a focus on vegetables and sustainability. Wine and food are on equal footing – pick from the artful and delicious small plates, like fennel seed focaccia with carrot top pesto, pickles, green tahini and dukkah, or a cheese plate, while you navigate the wine list. Choose sparkling, white or red on tap, or delve into the extensive list of low-intervention wines. We had a glass of the local Langham Zig Zag – crisp, refreshing, everything we wanted – and the soft option, a seasonal fruit spritz made with local berries and a delicate touch of rosemary.
The menu changes daily depending on seasonality, with meticulous cooking bringing out the flavours of carefully sourced ingredients. Heritage beetroot is served with a cream of its own leaves and pangrattato, and griddled flat beans come with smoked anchovies and local goat’s cheese. Pork belly with slaw and zingy rhubarb ketchup was the only meat on offer on our visit, but with vegetable brilliance in the form of moreish stilton & ricotta-stuffed courgette flowers with honey and hazelnuts, you won’t miss it. lilacwine.co.uk
Kindle, Cardiff
The third in Phil and Deb Lewis’s mini restaurant empire in the Welsh capital, Kindle encourages a circular economy with local farmers, gamekeepers and gardeners. Fire and smoke are used to create small plates such as sangak flatbread with burnt aubergine butter, tangy South Indian mackerel soup and a pig’s head, trotter and bean stew. There’s a ‘no napkin’ ethos and a commitment to creating new ingredients from seasonal surplus. kindlecardiff.co.uk
Holm, Somerset
The team behind London’s trio of neighbourhood bistros, Salon, Levan and Larry’s, has taken its sustainable forward empire rural, to a former bank in South Petherton. Chef Nicholas Balfe has relocated to run the restaurant, which offers counter dining at the open kitchen and an outdoor grill beside the kitchen garden. Look out for Somerset ex-dairy beef tartare, grilled celeriac with broccoli tops and seaweed béarnaise, and caramelised apple crumble. holmsomerset.co.uk
Bundobust Brewery, Manchester
Mayur Patel and Marko Husak have been partnering with northern breweries since 2013 to create perfect pairings for their vibrant Gujarati street food dishes (think paneer tikka skewers, fennel-spiced kale bhajis and tarka lentil dhal). The team has just launched Bundobust Brewery, where it can brew its own craft beers in-house, including a smooth and creamy porter, and bitter, hoppy IPA. bundobust.com
Superico Restaurant, Edinburgh
Tapas-style dining with a South American twist
Part of a double-whammy opening (its sister Superico Bar and Lounge has just opened a few doors down), this small, stylish space feels buzzy and welcoming as you walk down steps into the long dining room. Yellow banquette seating lines the wall, and there are splashes of colour (from the vibrant tiles in the entrance to the pretty glazed crockery) as a nod to its South American influences. The main evening menu follows the sharing plates model with an eclectic mix of ingredients – expect dishes like octopus with avocado crema, fennel and salsa cruda, and pork belly and cheek with chicharron, corn and wilted greens. On Sunday afternoons, the menu is pared back to a few sandwiches and sides. We tried the Mexican aubergine torta – a hefty stack of crisp tempura aubergine slices stuffed into a soft torta roll – and melt-in-the-mouth veggie empanadas with a squash, pepper and goat’s cheese filling, on a fiery red mojo sauce. The star side was a generous stack of padron peppers blistered from the grill with a blanket of finely grated Grana Padano, and there is a short but good value aperitivo list at £5 for a spritz or bloody mary. superico.com
Heron, Leith, Edinburgh
Stylish shorefront restaurant with local ingredient focus
This anticipated new opening from Tomas Gormley and Sam Yorke comes after their successful Bad Seeds fine dining at home pop-up during lockdown. The room is calm and airy with double-height ceilings, white wood panelled walls and clean contemporary lines. The large windows look out on to Leith Shore where, if you’re lucky, you might see the feathered visitor the restaurant was named after. There are two menus available at lunch, the à la carte and a two- or three-course set menu (which we were advised was a lighter option). The cooking is delicate, precise and visually stunning with a real respect for the carefully sourced local ingredients. A starter of lobster claw comes on a buttery crushed potato terrine tower with a rich tomato and saffron sauce poured tableside for drama. Creamy cod brandade is served in a bowl studded with plump mussels and clams, and bursts of salty samphire and a chunk of focaccia alongside for dipping. Mains include perfectly pink lamb loin with piperade and a vivid green salsa verde, and a chunk of pearly flaked pan-fried cod with tiny cubed potatoes and sea vegetables in a creamy sauce split with fig oil. Service is friendly, warm and attentive, and there’s a lovely pace to the dishes coming out. A perfect place to while away a leisurely afternoon. heron.scot
Sargasso, Margate
The owner of east London’s neighbourhood restaurant, Brawn, has opened a seaside sister restaurant at Margate’s iconic pier destination, Harbour Arm. Enjoy lobster spaghetti and Catalan salt cod salad with a quintessential view back over the harbour to the Old Town. Ingredients are sourced locally, many grown on musician and restaurant partner Matthew Herbert’s farm 10 miles from the town, with wines from Europe’s boutique vineyards. Full review coming soon.
Deftly executed open-fire, seasonal dishes, celebrating local Sussex produce
Due South occupies an enviable spot under the arches on the seafront, overlooking the iconic West Pier. Head chef Mark Wadsworth’s food is seasonal and British, with an Asian inspiration. But his USPs are that he cooks everything over an open fire, and that all his ingredients come from within 35 miles of the restaurant.
The vibe is relaxed, with alfresco tables out front and two intimate, low-lit levels within. Service is welcoming and attentive, with staff happy to make recommendations. The wine list features a strong showing of Sussex sparkling wines, and there’s a creative selection of cocktails. We enjoyed the tart Saint Hibiscus made with Court Garden sparkling Sussex wine, hibiscus liqueur and lemon juice.
Start with the must-order wood-fired sourdough – a gloriously fluffy pillow laden with salty anchovies and slathered with rosemary butter. Fish is treated flawlessly, whether served raw as a small plate (wild sea bass sashimi with wasabi crème fraîche) or wood-fired as a main (our whole lemon sole special with confit garlic and charred lemon was a sweetly succulent gem).
But save room for the unmissable wood-fired cheesecake, a generous, gloriously light slice with a toasty top, accompanied by sweet, juicy, macerated cherries.
Elevated Argentinian-inspired dishes in a cool contemporary setting
Aktar Islam’s farm-to-table hotspot is a celebration of seasonality, fresh produce and the finest cuts of meat around. Settle into the foliage-filled interior and expect a warm atmosphere, an energetic buzz and open-flame cooking. If you need some expert guidance, the staff are all committed steak specialists and won’t let you put a fork wrong. Everything on the menu has regional South American flair, from the artfully plated pulpo to the chunky, chilli-laced prawns. For those taking their meaty odyssey seriously, don’t miss out on a slathering of smoked bone marrow on crunchy toasted focaccia. On to the main event, Pulperia boasts the best beef from around the globe, from 17-year-old Galician Blonde prime rib to share between two, to a young and tender sirloin. Any non-meat eaters won’t feel left out with a choice of seasonal plates including a suitably indulgent truffle tagliatelle. Top off your dining experience with a bottle from their extensive wine list, showcasing juicy South American offerings.
Head to Merlin Labron-Johnson’s low-food mileage restaurant in an old ironmongers shop in rural Somerset, and bookend your lunch at the chef’s newly-opened, all-day wine bar and épicerie, The Old Pharmacy. Merlin grows produce on his own veg plot Dreamers Farm, which/that customers will have the opportunity to enjoy in pretty small plates and toasties or to take home, along with treats such as Tamworth charcuterie and Osip’s home-fermented cider. Full review coming soon.
Brighton’s hip new hang-out for cocktails and sharing plates
Burnt Orange is a restaurant and cocktail bar from the team behind popular Brighton foodie haunts The Salt Room and The Coal Shed. Dubbed as a hip new hang-out for adults, it has a buzzy, bar-like atmosphere and extensive cocktail list – we loved the zingy, grapefruit-based Dizzy Berry, but those who like a harder drink will enjoy the Burnt Orange martini. Designed to be shared, the food focusses on seasonal ingredients, mostly cooked over fire. Start with hot, pillowy, wood-fired flatbread slathered in sesame brown butter, and cumin-heavy hummus with crunchy hazelnuts for dunking. Dishes change with the seasons but expect starters such as hot polenta chips topped with tartare-style raw beef with gherkins and a hint of truffle, finished with grated sheep’s cheese, and perfectly salted, spiced calamari with silky, preserved lemon aïoli. Larger dishes include meltingly soft miso aubergine with soured cream, crispy onions and refreshing pops of pomegranate; tender Galician octopus swimming in a rich, spicy harissa butter sauce with roasted peppers and potatoes; and giant, juicy prawns with punchy zhoug dressing. Extra hungry? Order a side of the crispy, skillet-baked potatoes coated in a garlic and herb cream and topped with cheese – you won’t regret it.
Interactive chef’s table experiences in an elegant Georgian townhouse
In a prime spot off the leafy market square of Henley-on-Thames, a converted Georgian townhouse hosts a food lover’s hideaway. Venture through the sophisticated The Grill restaurant to the back of the building, where two elegant chef’s table dining rooms host intricate, interactive dinners. In The Thames room, sit on velvet stools, strategically placed around a sparkling open kitchen, and watch chefs pipe cheese into gougères, pincer peanuts onto passion fruit chocolate desserts, and sprinkle puffed rice onto sizzling duck breasts. Young, talented chef Alex Payne kicks off his eight-course tasting menu with Oxford sourdough, made using a 120-year-old starter originally from Italy, providing a springy base for whipped, mousse-like beef fat and cultured Irish butter. Highlights of the menu include chicken liver parfait delicately sandwiched between crisp chicken skin in a savoury spin on the Jammie Dodger, and halibut cooked in beurre noisette served with a sesame-covered Jersey Royal potatoes, celeriac purée, sweet fennel jam and sea buckthorn gel. Treat yourself to the Dine & Stay package to prolong your experience in one of the seven elegant rooms, featuring restored marble fireplaces, industrial copper lamps and roll-top, claw-foot baths.
Sophisticated wild game suppers and lavish Sunday roasts in an elegant Georgian terrace
A series of intimate, green-panelled dining rooms make up Bath’s new restaurant from wild game chef, Mike Robinson. Dark wood floors, framed hunting paintings and terracotta-coloured leather banquettes add a lavish cosiness to the converted Georgian terrace that also houses the city’s boutique Indigo Hotel. Dinners kick off with a complimentary rosemary- and sherry-infused venison tea served with crusty, warm granary bread. Highlights of the menu include venison tartare on a squidgy brown butter crumpet, cod cheeks in a creamy guanciale sauce with puffed rice and pea purée, and an elegant black bream fillet with crisp capers and Jersey Royals. Visit on a Sunday to tuck into a sophisticated roast of perfectly pink beef, a dinky copper dish of the crunchiest golden roasties and a yorkshire pudding filled with caramelised onions and white sauce.
Michelin-starred restaurant, Pensons, nestled in Netherwood Estate on the Herefordshire/Worcestershire border, has added two rooms to its courtyard garden, available to book as part of a dinner, bed and breakfast package. Head chef Chris Simpson farms, forages and grows his own ingredients on the estate to create a seasonal, five-course tasting menu that includes dishes such as cured salmon with sorrel sauce, lamb and Little Gem, and plaice with crab butter sauce. pensons.co.uk
Palmerston, Edinburgh
James Snowdon (The Harwood Arms) and Lloyd Morse (Spring, Primeur, Magdalen) have opened the ‘ultimate neighbourhood restaurant’ in a former 20-th century bank in Edinburgh’s West End. The duo work with Scottish farmers to sustainably butcher local breeds and prepare nose-to-tail dishes such as Hebridean hogget with slow-cooked fennel and chard, whole grilled mackerel with white beans and Pernod, and porchetta, wild garlic and fennel sandwiches alongside the city’s Obadiah Coffee. Full review coming soon.
Jericho neighbourhood’s new restaurant and wine bar offers more than 400 wines, including 50 available by the glass, alongside Dominique Goltinger’s seasonal small plates that highlight locally foraged ingredients. Full review coming soon.
Siblings Josh and Holly Eggleton have taken on a warehouse behind The Bristol Beer Factory taproom to open the latest iteration of their Michelin-starred pub, Pony & Trap. This striking space spotlights Chew Valley produce to serve contemporary twists on British bistro classics, including mushroom parfait with smoked pear chutney, cured monkfish with pickled garlic stem and petits pois, and Shepton Mallet rainbow trout with asparagus. Full review coming soon.
Reviews by Alex Crossley, Georgina Kiely, Anna Lawson, Dominic Martin, Ben Curtis
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Mark Taylor<![CDATA[Covent Garden foodie guide: where to eat and drink]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=37412024-01-11T16:28:42Z2024-01-10T11:20:08Z
Looking for Covent Garden restaurants? Here are our favourite restaurants near Covent Garden for pre-theatre dinners and post-shopping meals. Check out our ideas for eating and drinking from The Strand to theatre land and beyond…
Jamie Oliver Catherine St — for comforting classics
Catherine Street by Jamie Oliver marks the chef’s return to the London restaurant scene. A menu of comforting classics includes starters of devilled eggs, oysters and mushrooms on toast; sharing dishes like ox cheek pie and Sutton Hoo chicken with stroganoff sauce; homemade pastas, daily fish specials, steak and Trevor’s chicken, named in honour of Jamie’s father. Desserts include sticky toffee pudding and the River Café Nemesis cake, a nod to the restaurant Jamie worked in when he was discovered as a TV chef. Enter through an impressive garden-like courtyard with twinkly lights into a dramatic, buzzing main room with comfortable booths, antique lamps and modern art and photography. Suppliers are name-checked, with meat from HG Walter, Cobble Lane Cured charcuterie and Coombeshead Farm bread. jamieolivercatherinest.com
Photograph: David Cotsworth
Piazza at the Royal Opera House — for modern British dishes
Piazza at the Royal Opera House, the restaurant and terrace housed within one of London’s most iconic buildings – overlooking what was once the city’s most famous fruit, vegetable and flower market, Covent Garden – has relaunched with a modern makeover, coinciding with a reinvigorated menu offering seasonal, modern British dishes and aiming to be every bit as breathtaking as the performances taking place within. Dishes include starters such as London burrata with heritage beetroot, mains including Cornish cod with mussels and pumpkin, and sharing dishes such as Belted Galloway ox cheek pie with bone marrow mash. roh.org.uk
Lahpet West End — for Burmese food in central London
Lahpet West End is set over two floors, with an outdoor mezzanine overlooking a courtyard. Fragrant from cardamon and turmeric, and fresh with lemongrass and coriander, this is one of the few places in the UK to champion the food of Myanmar. The menu is split into small and large plates, bowls and sides which can all be shared or enjoyed as more conventional courses. Cocktails are twists on the classics and the kumquat spritz uplifted a glass of prosecco with orange bitters, lime leaf and kumquat juice. Different fritters are made out of split peas, shan tofu and sweetcorn, and come with a tamarind dip. The grilled chicken thigh and tiger prawn skewers were plump, smoky and worked well with the must-try tea leaf salad — a masterclass in crisp and fermented ingredient layering. The fish noodle soup was packed with seafood, and aubergines are ingeniously served whole and stuffed with chilli, coriander and crunchy fried shallots. We wanted to be left with the flavours of the savoury food so we didn’t order anything sweet but the table next to us raved about the banana parfait with ginger crumble. lahpet.co.uk
Ikoyi — for West African fine dining
Jeremy Chan and Iré Hassan-Odukale’s second iteration of their highly acclaimed West African fine-dining restaurant at 180 The Strand. The spice-focussed menu has evolved to new heights and cooking techniques courtesy of a much bigger space, while keeping the theme more than ever on micro-seasonal British ingredients. Tasting menu £300; ikoyilondon.com
El Ta’Koy — for Hawaiian-style dining
El Ta’Koy is the first UK opening from Cuban chef Luis Pous, who has restaurants of the same name in Miami and a pop-up in the Dominick Hotel in New York. Inspired by the tiki bars of Hawaii but with flavour influences that range from Asia to Latin America, El Ta’Koy provides an eclectic menu, with dishes such as ahi poke bowls, lamb barbacoa tacos, sea bass ceviche and pork chicharrón bao all sharing the same space. The menu is split into sharing, tacos and small plates, and there’s an inventive cocktail list that brings fresh updates to some tiki bar classics. el-takoy.com
NoMad Restaurant — for New York meets London hot hotel dining
Housed in the infamous Bow Street magistrates court, the room is dramatic with its high ceiling — bright or moody depending on time of day. A long comfortable banquette divides the space that’s alive with greenery and London buzz. NoMad’s menu has NYC touches (a nod to its sister hotel) and spans the sublime — oysters with cucumber ice, a delicate sea bream crudo with radishes and teeny picked strawberries; to sturdy (but refined) suckling pig; 30-day dry-aged rib-eye, and a brioche-stuffed chicken dish to share between two — to the sublime again: cherry ice cream with mascarpone within a crisp chocolate shell. The hefty wine list is best navigated with the help of the young, friendly wine team. Dinner bookings are like gold dust so go early or late, but go! thenomadhotel.com
Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen — for Filipino sharing food
Head to Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen in the recently re-opened KERB Seven Dials in Covent Garden for some of the freshest, most delicious Filipino cuisine we’ve tried in London. This restaurant is made for enjoying with a bunch of friends, with the restaurants famed sharing dish of crispy pata pancakes taking centre stage. Sip on creamy, fragrant pina coladas before tucking into a generous feast of slow-cooked melt-in-the-mouth ham hock with a crispy exterior (not dissimilar to hoisin duck), light paper-thin pancakes, fresh coriander and lime, as well as a lip-smacking Mang Tomas sauce. For veggies there’s a crispy mushroom version and an overflowing bowl of adobo-glazed cauliflower that we loved so much it had us ordering more. Round your meal off with a scoop of Bong Bong’s famous Milo ice cream, rich, creamy and malted. Bong Bong’s is everything we want from a sharing-vibe restaurant — big, well thought out portions, zingy flavours and moreish textures, and fab cocktails with some of the jolliest staff we’ve come across. I think one of the most joyful restaurant experiences we’ve had, we cant wait to head back. bongbongs.co.uk
Ave Mario — for lavish, camp interiors and superior Italian ingredients
Anyone who loved the OTT charms of Gloria and Circo Populare will find much to enjoy in Big Mamma’s latest opening. Loosely inspired by Florence, it’s a sprawling affair with almost 300 seats spread over three floors of kitschy, Instagrammable interiors, from the ground-floor dining room complete with soaring ceilings, green-and-white striped walls and a towering bar stocked with 3,500 bottles, to a louche, mirrored, 70s-style basement bar complete with an open kitchen where you can watch pizzaiolos work their magic. There’s campy Catholic iconography scattered throughout, pictures of Sopranos characters in the loos, pretty vegetable-shaped crockery and a 60cm marbled stracciatella ice-cream cake on the menu to rival Gloria’s famed supersized lemon meringue pie. It’s boisterously fun and undoubtedly a place you go to soak up the atmosphere, but the food — mostly crowdpleasing spins on classics — also impresses, from luscious carbonara ravioli filed with oozy egg yolk and flakes of guanciale, to the pillowiest of pizzas decadently topped with salty pearls of Venetian caviar. Ingredients, sourced from some 180 artisan suppliers, are top drawer — think 36-month-old prosciutto; dreamily creamy Puglian burrata; silky mortadella; and liberal clouds of umami aged parmesan. coventgarden.london/ave-mario
Blacklock — for a sustainable approach to meat
The latest Blacklock is in a listed building just off Bedford Street in Covent Garden in what was once the location for the King’s Coachmakers and it’s their biggest yet. The mid-century modern/industrial feel is welcoming and the menu focusses on the affordable and sustainable approach to meat that is central to Blacklock’s approach.
A starter of Cull Yaw Crumpet signals what lies ahead. Dry-aged Cornish mutton shoulder and leg is slow-roasted overnight in a range of spices until it’s soft and ready to fall apart. This is then placed atop a crumpet with English mustard and pickled onions. A jug of gravy is offered to pour over the meal and soak deep into the crumpet, resulting in an impressive depth of flavour. Blacklock’s signature ‘All In’ option is a sharing platter of beef, pork and lamb skinny chops piled high on charcoal-grilled flatbreads, the juice and flavours of the meat flowing into the bread. There are also meat-free options, barbecued halloumi and coal-roasted celeriac. The drinks menu is extensive with a range of cocktails, wine and their own Blacklock Lager and Pale Ales, brewed with Harbour Brew Co. in Cornwall. theblacklock.com/covent-garden
Joe Allen — for American classics with a British accent in Theatreland
Beloved by the theatre crowd — that’s those on stage, behind the scenes and in the audience — the USA-inspired all-day restaurant has moved into new premises off The Strand, with new (ex-The Ivy) chef Gary Lee on board. Playful touches kick off the menu; mini shepherd’s ‘tarts’, a truffled cheese toastie and ‘love it or hate it’ — a riff on Marmite. Classic dishes include slow-baked smoked ribs, strip steak with fat chips, hotdogs with or without chilli and a decent caesar along with seasonal mains such as hearty braised beef in barolo and roasted squash risotto. Dessert features the very American peanut butter and jelly ice cream sandwich and the very British eccles cake with cheese. What make Joe’s so special, along with live piano and great cocktails (try a New York Wasp with salt and paprika rim) is its brilliantly laidback but ever-efficient staff who make it seem as fun to work as it is to eat there. The set menu available until 7pm offers great value at three courses for £27.50. joeallen.co.uk
Fafa’s – for falafel pittas
Finnish street food outlet Fafa’s has opened its first London spot, perched at the end of Covent Garden’s Monmouth Street. The low-key spot serves signature crispy falafels stuffed in light, fluffy pittas. Order the halloumi and tzatziki version brimming with cubes of squeaky cheese and a sprinkling of couscous, or go for a classic pitta pocket drizzled with a slick of hummus. If you’re still hungry, order golden halloumi sticks on the side, or salted sweet potato fries. Sit at the counter seats, or take away (with a few napkins in tow).
With its Victorian-style white tiles and high marble-counter tables, Parsons has the feel of a traditional, old-school fish restaurant that’s been there for decades, not one that only opened in Covent Garden at the end of 2017.
Sibling to The 10 Cases across the road on Endell Street, Parsons is informal enough to drop in for a half-dozen oysters and a glass of fizz, or settle down for a full-on feast of sea trout tartare with bloody mary jelly; octopus with duck-fat potatoes, paprika and parsley oil; or a hearty bowl of clam chowder packed with smoked bacon, shellfish, potatoes and cream.
Petersham Nurseries’ verdant Italian restaurant La Goccia has opened a laidback cocktail bar serving seasonal cocktails and snacks. Hidden behind a velvet curtain, discover a space decked in lush flowers and foliage, abstract floral art, plush velvet sofas, art deco chairs, mirrored antique tables and Middle Eastern rugs.
Cocktails are simple and seasonal. We tried the Bitter Orange Blossom – a zesty, smoky mix of mezcal, Aperol, citrus and amaro – and the White Daisy, a perky, fresh twist on a margarita. The bar also has an impressively long list of non-alcoholic cocktails, including an excellent booze-free negroni with punchy, herbaceous bite.
It’s worth delving into the bar menu, too, with well-executed snacks such as the salty-sweet salad of pecorino and pear, or pillowy burrata with smoky roasted agrodolce squash. petershamnurseries.com/la-goccia-bar
Frog By Adam Handling – for a special occasion
Frog by Adam Handling is the Scottish chef’s second solo restaurant focusing on British seasonal food (with a few Asian twists) paired with unique pre-bottled cocktails and unusual wines. Choose between the five-course (£65) and eight-course (£80) tasting menus, and pair with wines (£70) or matching cocktails (£65). The set menu changes fortnightly, but some of Adam’s signature dishes stick around. You can also choose from an à la carte menu.
The tagline for Covent Garden’s newest Italian restaurant, just minutes from Trafalgar Square, might be “pasta, prosecco, espresso” – but it’s those first little mouthfuls of arancini from the antipasti that you’ll be raving about, come home time. Created by head chef Louis Korovilas – whose CV lists training under Giorgio Locatelli, at Locanda Locatelli, and Pied à Terre – the arancini arrive as three golden nuggets. Their crisp armour gives way to the lightest rice, still just al dente, no stodge, and bags of flavour – first (on our visit) earthy mushroom, next creamy dolcelatte, and finally saffron with a fiery heart of ’nduja.
It’s hard not to be mesmerised by the rest of the menu, though, particularly if you sit at the marble-topped, brass-trimmed bar, overlooking Louis and his team at work. Fresh pasta, which is made and rolled upstairs, is flash-boiled before being tossed with any of the 10 sauces on offer. Chitarra – guitar-string like spaghetti – is slicked with cacio e pepe and topped with a crisp, peppered cheese wafer.
Oxtail ragu (best ever ragu recipes here), slow cooked for 10 hours until sticky and sweet, clings to bouncy folds of pappardelle. Simple, quality ingredients – the bedrock of good Italian cookery – are shown proper respect. Hispi cabbage is charred and dressed with red chilli, garlic and 2017 Planeta olive oil. Chicory and beans are held up with sweet and sour onions, and a deeply savoury anchovy crumb.
Classic negronis with the right amount of chunky ice and a twist of orange are just as well received as the prosecco, and don’t leave without a palate-cleansing, retro-tastic Amalfi lemon syllabub (recipe below) and granita served in its original host. Holiday vibes for the win.
Classic, maritime-inspired elegance defines the vibe at FishWorks’ third site with soft blue, grey and natural tones, white tiling and playful nautical hints – including knotted robe pendant lights and striking feature walls of copper fish scales.
The restaurant’s central location in the heart of the West End makes it the perfect venue for enjoying a pre- or post-theatre seafood feast, from oysters and champagne at the marble-topped bar to lobster thermidor, whole Devon crab (perfectly sweet and plentiful on our visit) and fruit de mer platters. Dishes from the crowd-pleasing à la carte menu also impress. Brixham fish soup is rich and silky, with a pungently garlicky rouille; portly, hand-dived scallops – generously served four apiece – come in their shells swimming in garlic butter and topped with golden breadcrumbs. Dover sole is served on the bone and either grilled or à la meunière. We opt for the latter and it’s just as it should be, soft and flakingly tender. For drinks make a beeline for their roster of ‘maritime wines’ – all produced within 10 miles of the coast and with subtle saline notes designed to complement the fish and seafood on the menu.
Finally, pick up more piscine treats at the in-house fishmonger before you leave, which, like the rest of the restaurant, offers responsibly sourced fish and seafood selected from Devon and Cornwall’s day boats and fish markets, plus homemade sauces to cook your catch with.
In an area packed to the gills with restaurants, Volta do Mar still manages to offer something a little different, with a menu that celebrates the global reach of Portuguese cuisine.
Husband-and-wife team Simon Mulls (co-founder of the Salt Yard Group) and Isabel Da Silva (Mirabelle, Delaunay) have cherry-picked culinary gems from the likes of Brazil, Mozambique, Goa and Macau, as well as Portuguese regional dishes, to create an accessible medley of small and larger sharing dishes, all served in mutedly elegant period surroundings (think mid-century chairs, wooden floors and a palette of soft, cloudy tones).
Ovos come tomate is a smooth, creamy, quiche-like disc of baked eggs and tomato topped with fronds of sweet white Dorset crabmeat; while vegan aubergine Goan curry sees the veg cooked to collapsing, fudgy softnesss, with creamy cashew yogurt. Arroz marisco is piscine comfort food, with chunky mussels and prawns, and tender rice, in a rich bisque. Mozambique piri-piri chicken is served with the sauce on the side for good reason – it’ll blow your socks off.
Cool down with the likes of grilled pineapple with chilli and coconut sorbet for dessert, or go rogue with the restaurant’s surprise hit drink of the night, a savoury, punchy pumpkin margarita. Don’t forget to explore the all-Portuguese wine list, too – which ranges from a very gluggable Douro house white to a pinot noir-like bottle from the Azores.
Opera Tavern, Catherine Street – for Mediterranean small plates
This popular Mediterranean small-plates restaurant and wine bar has had a makeover, adding a cosy contemporary touch. Walls are lined with exposed-brick walls, and pops of colour (contemporary prints, retro yellow lamps) brighten the place up. Bag the prime spot by the window on the first floor on date night, or perch at the striking brass bar downstairs for pre-theatre drinks.
Twists on classics include silky croquetas sprinkled with truffle shavings, and black linguine with finely chopped squid ragu in a delicate tomato sauce. Cut into a scotch egg through a layer of punchy ’nduja to find a perfectly runny yolk. Opera Tavern’s popular ibérico pork burger with foie gras is also still standing proud on the menu. Traditionalists are also catered for, with creamy burrata livened up with sun-dried tomatoes, toasty pine nuts and a green herb oil.
Spanish drinks include lively Er Boquerón seawater beer and Fauno wine, a grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre mix with soft plum and spice notes, both from Valencia.
26 Grains, Neal’s Yard – for porridge and seasonal dishes
Hidden in Covent Garden’s courtyard haven, Neal’s Yard, 26 Grains has grown up from its porridge pop-up into the cosy site you see today. A crammed open-plan kitchen dominates most of the space. Shelves bend with the weight of pretty crockery; hard-working pots and pans hang, ready and waiting, above the hot gas stove; and any other free space is filled with jars of spices, grains and bags of flour.
You can sit at the bar, facing chef-owner Alex Hely-Hutchinson as she beavers away, high up on smooth wooden bar stools, or at another counter facing the wall. Or there are a couple of communal tables with bench seating, inside and out (weather permitting), modestly decorated with dried flowers and twinkling candles.
Seasonality drives the short-but-sweet menu, whether you visit at breakfast, lunch or dinnertime. Visit in late spring, and you might find the likes of porridge with loquat and sweet cicely, whipped ricotta and toasted walnuts, or asparagus, chopped egg and hollandaise before midday. Lunch sees the likes of yellow dal with roasted cauliflower, aubergine pickle, garlic yogurt, almond dukkah and garlic flatbread, alongside fresh plates of courgette ribbons with herbs, nuts and pecorino.
Dinner is an easy choice of one starter, a main of fresh pasta, and a seasonal Poco Gelato ice cream or sorbet (on our visit a must-order, zingy yuzu sorbet). Ingredients are cooked with little fuss – meaning their bright, fresh flavours shine through – and thanks to Alex’s strong understanding of the importance of balance (whether that be crunch to counter softness, sourness to stand up to sweetness) everything delivers.
The name stems from the fact that this buzzy little Covent Garden bar and bistro only ever buys 10 cases of the wines on the concise list in a quest to offer customers new experiences each time they visit. It was opened in 2011 by Ian Campbell and Will Palmer, who were bored of overpriced wine lists that never changed.
Will says: “I think part of the success of 10 Cases is the constantly changing wine list and having more than 300 wines with very small cash mark-ups and small corkage charges. I think the ability to be able to drink really good and interesting wine in an unpretentious setting strikes a chord with many people.”
Authentic’ is overused on London’s restaurant scene, but Saiphin Moore has managed to do the word justice with her traditional Laotian cooking in newly opened Covent Garden restaurant Lao Café. After successfully running seven branches of cool and casual Thai restaurant Rosa’s, Saiphin’s mission is to bring traditional home cooking from her original Laotian roots to Londoners. After a tip from friend and Bangkok-based Thai food expert Chris Wotton as “the best Lao and Northern Thai food outside of Thailand”, we headed to this little café just off Leicester Square.
London’s La Gelatiera focuses on unique and intriguing flavour combinations, from blue cheese and walnut to basil and chilli. Each scoop is made with natural, seasonal ingredients and Jersey milk and cream, with the dairy ingredients pasteurised on site for optimum freshness. If you want to keep it classic you can order a scoop of creamy vanilla mananara, but the honey, rosemary and orange is recommended if you fancy something fresher with slightly savoury notes.
Descend from Seven Dial’s Earlham Street down to this buzzy basement dedicated to fried chicken, sours cocktails and kitsch memorabilia. Carl Clarke runs the shop with his business partner David Wolanski, and his former life as a DJ has rubbed off on the fun soundtrack of seventies bangers and hip hop, as well as pop-art-style prints of cassette tapes on the walls.
As its name suggests, this spot is big on sours cocktails, shaken up in the bar lined with house spirits. Try the Mexinese for a refreshing, Mexican-Asian mash-up of tequila, pandan, ginger and lime.
When it comes to the food, fried chuck is what it’s all about. Chicken burgers see succulent pieces of buttermilk-brined Somerset chicken coated in a crunchy batter and sandwiched in brioche buns. Korean gochujang mayo and sriracha soured cream give a fiery punch to the K-Pop, while American cheese and kewpie mayo add a creaminess to The General.
Sides are a must, served on mismatched retro plates. Chunks of watermelon provide a refreshing burst reminiscent of fried chicken shops across the Deep South, here sprinkled with peanuts, coriander, mint and nahm jim. Szechuan aubergine is meltingly soft, coated in a light batter and bathed in a soy-based sauce with spring onion, pickled chilli and sesame seeds.
Temper, Mercer Walk – for crowd-pleasing barbecue and cocktails
“I’m sure there are traditionalists out there who think I’m the devil himself, but I’d rather be knocked for trying something new than just roll out someone else’s recipes – I never saw the point in that,” says Neil Rankin, explaining his philosophy at Temper Covent Garden.
This is a restaurant that likes to push the boundaries when it comes to Italian-rooted food, from the aged beef-fat tallow and pesto ravioli to the wood-fired ‘Detroit’ pizza with its topping of goat ragu, mozzarella, London-cured Cobble Lane pepperoni and San Marzano tomatoes.
“I love traditional pizzas and pastas, but London is full of great places doing both – so I wanted to explore a different side to both and have a little fun. For me, food shouldn’t have restrictions and rules past deliciousness.”
Other standout dishes at Temper Covent Garden include the crab okonomiyaki pizza with crab, fennel, langoustine mayo, hoisin, sesame and katsuobushi.
Neil says: “Certain flavour profiles are almost set in stone, but there is always room within those borders to create something new. I like to see connections between cuisines because they’re all related and when you get an obvious crossover it’s fun to exploit that. Especially in London, which is a multicultural, mixed bag of cuisines.”
Frenchie, Henrietta Street – for upmarket French food
During his time at Fifteen restaurant, Greg Marchand was nicknamed ‘Frenchie’ by Jamie Oliver, and has so named his bistro in Paris after gaining further experience in New York, London and his hometown of Nantes, France. More recently, Greg has popped back over la Manche to bring his modern French cooking to Covent Garden in his new branch of Frenchie.
This chic, two-floor restaurant is an excellent fit in the buzzy West End, with set designer Emilie Bonaventure’s light, bright interiors, exposed brick walls, contemporary lighting and soft leather bench seating. Bag a soft grey bar stool at the impressive, marble-topped bar and be entertained by Rudi Carraro’s impressive cocktail skills – look up to catch this mixologist, formerly of the Artesian, pouring steady streams of spirits, bitters and syrups from a staggering height.
We try Once Upon a Time No.2 – a refreshing mix of Ketel One vodka, Mirabelle plum and citrus with a foamy top; and lightly-sparkling Ms. Bubbles, an elegant glass of silky-sweet Tagliatella (aromatic cherry brandy), hazelnut and champagne…
Dating from 1896, J Sheekey is located in the heart of West End theatreland so it comes as no surprise that the walls are adorned with portraits of celebrity clientele in the four interconnecting dining rooms. Both the restaurant and its adjacent oyster bar serve an impressive choice of oysters and crustaceans, but the famous Sheekey’s fish pie, and monkfish and tiger prawn tikka masala remain firm favourites with the regulars.
Fabrique Bakery, Earlham Street – for cinnamon buns
Whether cinnamon or cardamom is your bun of choice, Fabrique Bakery is a great place to enjoy a spot of fika. This Swedish stone-oven bakery has brought the concept to London, plying in-the-know citizens with squidgy buns and sourdough fresh from the oven.
Specialising in grilling and baking from the Barbary Coast to Jerusalem, the menu is divided into baking and grinding, land, sea and earth – and you’ve got a prime view over everything as it is cooked (seating is arranged around a horseshoe-breakfast bar facing the open galley kitchen).
Order something from at least every section, and a special if you can manage it. Start with a Jerusalem bagel, a still-warm soft and chewy giant zero-shape, crusted with sesame seeds, and served with a pinch of aromatic za’atar. Roasted aubergine ‘sharabik’ is a smoking melting mouthful of tahini, sweet/sour molasses, toasted almonds and fresh raspberries. Pata negra neck is like no pork we’ve ever tasted – rich, buttery, more like a heavyweight Galician beef in its umami punch.
Knafeh for pud, is crisp, savoury and sweet, with its pistachio crumble hiding angel noodles and melty cheese beneath, but it was the halva ice cream that stole our heart. Elegant, grown-up and yet very, very naughty in the best kind of way.
Cora Pearl, Henrietta Street – for modern British small plates
In a nutshell: Cora Pearl brings modern British plates with Parisian accents to Covent Garden. Dishes are simple but impeccably executed, using beautiful ingredients. The kitchen’s way with vegetables especially impressed; creamy goat’s curd, in a generous pool of grassy olive oil, came with lovage and perfectly seasoned tomatoes (click here for more goat’s curd recipes). After this came soft, yielding agnolotti filled with more curd – cow’s this time – on a velvety pea purée, with perfectly pitched earthiness from summer truffle. Best of all was a deeply savoury and surprisingly rich main of courgettes – pickled, puréed and charred –with aubergine, black garlic (roasted whole and as a gel) and Ticklemore cheese. Dessert, as per the rest of the menu, was expertly crafted, our poached peach lusciously rich, paired with an intensely flavoured yet delicate earl grey sorbet.
The Ivy has been a London institution for over a century but in all that time, it has never welcomed guests for breakfast. Until now, as executive chef Gary Lee and his team have broken with tradition and created a menu that allows you to kick-start your day in style.
A restaurant with a legacy for seriously good xiao long bao (steamed soup dumplings), Din Tai Fung evolved from half a Taiwanese store in the 70s to a global brand with a cult following and more than 150 restaurants in Asia, Australia and the US today. The latest outpost, its first branch in Europe, is on the edge of Covent Garden, on Henrietta Street.
We’re here for the xiao long bao. The heavy, liquid-filled pouches of umami goodness are very special: the pork and crab version all the better for the rich, iodine tang of the shellfish encased within silky, supple dough.
Sushisamba, The Market Building – for impressive entertaining
A lively rooftop restaurant in the heart of Covent Garden serving inventive Nikkei dishes that fuse Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisines. This is Sushisamba’s fifth opening – there’s another on Liverpool Street, plus venues further afield in Amsterdam (read our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Amsterdam here), Miami and Las Vegas.
The Henrietta Hotel, Henrietta Street – for foodie sleepovers
The Henrietta Hotel, from the Experimental Group (Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, Experimental Cocktail Club, Joyeux Bordel), makes a great spot to sleep, eat and drink in the heart of Covent Garden.
The Petersham, Floral Street – for seasonal dishes
This is the second restaurant from reputable Petersham Nurseries in leafy Richmond. A peaceful haven in Covent Garden, ideal for a celebratory treat. An expansive flower-covered courtyard is peppered with rustic iron table and chairs, while the impressive restaurant space is decorated with grand chandeliers, antique mirrors and contemporary artworks. Palm trees and ornate vases of flowers brings a colourful sense of the outdoors.
The menu focusses on dishes that combine Italian produce along with locally sourced ingredients. Fish and meat play a large part along with seasonal vegetables. We loved the appetisers of crisp buttery pastry tarts filled with smooth pea purée and quinoa that came alongside bowls of fresh heritage radishes served with a creamy crab dip. A fresh salad of subtle Portland crab and thinly shaved fennel followed, alongside slightly too al dente parcels of pasta filled with creamy ricotta di bufala, nettles and citrusy marjoram and came soaked in a rich butter sauce.
For main, order the juicy roast Haye Farm chicken with creamy Mayan Gold potatoes, salty, earthy chunks of mushrooms and pungent wild garlic for a main, but be sure to leave room for exceptional desserts. We loved the quenelles of smooth Original Beans chocolate ganache and rich, grassy Zisola olive oil ice cream sit side by side, surrounded by chunks of chewy honeycomb and shards of slightly bitter chocolate. Or, for a light dessert, order the baked vanilla cheesecake with sweet chunks of poached rhubarb, or a bowl of refreshing, toasty hazelnut sorbet.
The all-Italian wine list, split into reds, whites and rosés, can be easily decoded by the enthusiastic sommeliers – the suggested Fonterutoli chianti classic with warm plum notes worked well with the meaty main course. Visit the well-stocked on-site cellar after your meal to buy your favourite bottles.
Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, Neal’s Yard – for wine
Sommelier Julia Oudill used to work in three-Michelin-star French restaurants where the service made guests squirm. Opening, decanting and pouring wine was a hushed ceremony, during which, she says: ‘nobody breathed.’
The vibe at Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, a chic Neal’s Yard bolt-hole where Julia is now general manager, couldn’t be more different. ‘Whether the bottle is £30 or £3,000, I want to sit with the guests, open it and talk about the wine. We serve wines alongside great food, with hip hop on the sound system.’ Compagnie des Vins is determined to make wine appreciation fun and affordable. ‘Great wine,’ insists Julia, ‘doesn’t have to cost a month’s rent’…
Part the noren (traditional Japanese fabric curtains) at Shoryu’s fifth ramen restaurant in buzzy Covent Garden and the friendly staff will shout “Irasshaimase!” (welcome in Japanese) from the white-tiled, sake-lined bar. Interiors are bold and play with angles – classic herringbone parquet timber flooring contrasts the brick walls and a curved wooden booth in one corner. Authentic Japanese touches filter all the way down to garlic cloves piled into pots on wooden tables so you can crush your own for extra welly.
Shoryu specialises in food from Hakata, a district of Fukuoka city in Western Japan. Think Hakata buns – the local version of the pillowy steamed bao buns that are on everyone’s lips at the moment, and most importantly eight varieties of tonkotsu ramen. Shoryu gives this comforting and rich 12-hour pork bone broth a lighter, cleaner consistency with added miso and serves over thin, springy noodles. Plenty of Japanese lagers and craft beers line the bar, or opt for a sake flight.
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Imogen Hope<![CDATA[Gozney vs Ooni — which pizza oven is best for you?]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=2147182024-01-10T11:00:12Z2024-01-10T11:00:12Z
Our experts have tested the following pizza ovens — Ooni Karu 16, Ooni Karu 12G, Ooni Koda 16, Ooni Koda 12, Ooni Volt 12, Gozney Dome, Gozney Dome S1, Gozney Roccbox. For more information our friends at BBC Good Food have a guide to the best pizza ovens.
When cooking pizzas at home, it can be difficult to gain restaurant-level quality without a pizza oven. Pizza ovens are designed to reach the high temperatures needed to achieve the classic mottled, leopard-spotted crust and bubbling toppings, with domestic models now able to reach over 400C – much higher than your standard kitchen oven.
Ooni and Gozney are two of the biggest names in the world of pizza ovens. Both brands can be credited with the rise in popularity of at-home pizza-making in recent years. The trend gained popularity in 2020, likely due to lockdown, but is showing no sign of slowing down with pizza parties taking over from summer barbecues.
If you can’t decide between the different styles of the two brands, it can be hard to know which would better suit your needs — both have models at a variety of price points and all the models we’ve tested have been high quality.
Our experts have tested a range of Ooni and Gozney pizza ovens using olive recipes. Read on to find the right pizza oven for you.
Tom Gozney first launched the pizza oven company in his own name in 2010. After starting with building a pizza oven in his own back garden, Gozney now makes pizza ovens for both commercial kitchens and for homes.
The three main domestic models of Gozney pizza ovens available in the UK are the Dome, Dome S1 and Roccbox. The Dome is a large, professional-scale pizza oven which isn’t portable, and sold out in under eight hours when it first launched.
The Roccbox is Gozney’s answer to the portable pizza oven, with high quality design. The model is multi-fuel so you can use either wood or gas.
Ooni
Ooni was launched in 2012 when husband-and-wife team Kristian Tapaninaho and Darina Garland found that their domestic oven wasn’t hot enough to keep up with their hobby of pizza-making.
Noticing a gap in the market, the company launched the first portable pizza oven of its kind which could be used in a domestic setting to reach temperatures of over 400C. Since the original launch Ooni has made a number of different models, including gas-powered or multi-fuel options where you can use wood, charcoal or gas.
Gozney vs Ooni pizza ovens compared
We tested the pizza ovens for the following criteria:
Packaging and sustainability
Overall quality of materials
Value for money
Ease of use and cleaning
Versatility
Results of cooking
There are also a number of other factors to consider when deciding which pizza oven might be right for you.
Size: Depending on the outdoor space or garden you have, size is important to consider when purchasing a pizza oven. Some come with stands or have stands which you can buy as an accessory, while others will need a sturdy table to rest on. You don’t have to have a large garden to have a pizza oven — some are compact enough that a well-ventilated balcony will suffice. There are also models, like the Ooni Volt 12, that can be used indoors – although it’s worth noting that we found this model needed a lot of ventilation to avoid the smoke detectors being set off.
Weight: Weight is an important factor to consider if you’re interested in a portable pizza oven (like the Gozney Roccbox or one of the Ooni models). Depending on where you’re planning to take your pizza oven you might have to carry it for considerable distances, for example if you’re heading to the beach.
Fuel type: Some pizza ovens run off gas and need to be connected to a canister, like the Koda 16 and Koda 12 from Ooni. Others are wood-fired which bring an authentic flavour to the pizzas such as the new Ooni Fyra 12 which uses wood pellets or the Gozney Dome which uses logs or kindling. Indoor pizza ovens, like the Volt 12 from Ooni, are electric and will need to be plugged in. There are also multi-fuel options which offer maximum versatility and can be used with gas or wood to achieve the cooking result you want.
Price: Pizza ovens are complicated pieces of kit requiring a lot of different parts, and for the most part their prices reflect that. The most affordable option from Ooni is £314, with the Volt 12 being the most expensive model at £799. For Gozney, the least expensive option is the Roccbox at £399, while the Dome is a much more premium option and will set you back £1,799. It’s also important to consider that there are some accessories you often you need to buy separately from the original machine.
Aesthetic: Both brands make sleek, stylish pizza ovens. It’s important to buy a cover if you’re planning to leave your pizza oven outside for extended periods of time, and many of the portable models will benefit from being brought under cover for the colder months. The Gozney Dome and Dome S1 has a fairly different aesthetic from the other Gozney and Ooni models. It comes in a choice of cream or green, with an attractive storage section to keep kindling and small logs.
Pizza size: The size of the pizza stone inside the oven will determine the size of pizzas you’re able to cook. Some are large enough that you might be able to cook two small pizzas at once, while others will have enough height that you can use your oven to cook other things, for example to roast a spatchcock chicken. The ovens with the largest pizza stones are the Karu 16 from Ooni and the Gozney Dome and Dome S1.
Gozney pizza oven models
Gozney is well known for its premium quality pizza ovens. There are technically five models domestically available, the Roccbox, Dome, Dome S1, Master and Core. However, as both the Master and Core are only available by request and need to be built into a garden – we haven’t tested them or included them here.
The latest model released by Gozney in October 2023, this pizza oven is very similar in design to the iconic Gozney Dome. Slightly cheaper than its sister model at £1,299, the Dome S1 is more streamlined than the original model, and is only available with gas fuel. While it might be cheaper than the Dome, the Dome S1 is still certainly an investment piece with essential accessories like a stand, cover and peel needing to be purchased separately. But we were impressed by the oven on test, and if you’re looking for an easy-to-use, showstopping addition to your garden, you don’t need to look any further.
We were impressed by the model straight out of the box. It’s smooth and sleek, with a weight that indicates high quality even if it does mean you’ll need a couple of strong friends to help you lift it safely. The set up took around 15 minutes, followed by a 30-minute cure time which is needed before the oven’s first use. This model’s greatest asset is how easy it is to light. In our experience testing pizza ovens, we’ve never used one which ignited so quickly, with clear instruction in the manual to take you step by step through the process. Once lit, the internal thermometer means keeping track of the temperature is a breeze.
The flame is located on the left of the oven, and we found that putting our pizzas to the far right of the oven made for the most consistent bake. Our pizzas cooked in two and a half minutes and needed regular spinning to ensure an even bake on all sides. The final result was a crisp base with a bubbly crust and beautifully mottled leopard spotting.
The Roccbox is Gozney’s domestic sibling to its professional pizza ovens used in the hospitality industry. The portable model boasts the high quality build that you would hope for from a machine costing nearly £400. Every element feels thoughtfully constructed, with the elegant machine being easy to assemble right out of the box.
It has dual-fuel capacity, and when we tested it using gas it heated up in a quick 20 minutes and was ready to use. Even if you’re not a well-practised dough slinger you’ll likely be able to produce a professional quality pizza with the Roccbox. It comes with a pizza paddle which is essential for inserting and removing things from the oven safely.
This oven only has room for a single pizza, but we found that every time they were cooked to perfection in under two minutes, so you can do a quick turnaround if catering for a crowd. If you’re planning on using the oven regularly we’d recommend buying the protective cover so you can leave it outside all summer long.
The Gozney Dome is the feather in the cap of Gozney’s range of pizza ovens. When it first went on sale it sold out in under eight hours and, despite other models being released since, its popularity has hardly waned. There’s no getting around the fact that this is a big investment, especially compared to other models covered here. But for your £1,799, you essentially get a professional-grade pizza oven in miniature, with dual-fuel options and immense cooking precision thanks to internal thermometers.
It might be professional grade, but we found you don’t need professional-grade pizza skills to make use of the Gozney Dome. The wide mouth means you aren’t hampered by the precision which is needed with many domestic ovens — on test we found it really easy to get pizzas in and out. There is room for two small pizzas, although we found that since they cook speedily in under two minutes it’s easier to cook one at a time and devote your attention to the single pizza.
We also really like the versatility of this pizza oven. The size meant we were able to cook a rib of beef and some whole charred aubergines, both of which came out well. It would also be able to fit a whole roasted fish or spatchcocked chicken, plus you can buy the specially designed rope sealed door which turns the Dome into a bread oven and slow roaster. If you’re looking for inspiration, check out the guide to what you can cook in your pizza oven from our friends at bbcgoodfood.com.
Ooni now has seven pizza ovens in its range. Most of the ovens have the same powder-coated steel with three metal legs which fold out from the base. The exception to this is the Volt 12 which sits directly on your table or surface. Any Ooni ovens which are multi-fuel or are purely wood-fired have the eye-catching steel chimney.
There’s also a wide range of Ooni pizza oven accessories available depending on how prepared you want to be as a pizza chef. This includes the paddle which you’ll need, but you can also buy fuel, cooking tools, thermometers and more.
This pizza oven was released in 2022 and has an impressive versatility with the ability to cook using wood, charcoal or gas. It is larger than many other Ooni ovens with the ability to fit a 16” pizza. On test, we were impressed by how easy it was to assemble and operate and we liked that the glass door meant we could check on how the pizza was cooking without losing heat by opening the door.
A great option if you’re cooking for a crowd, we found the Karu 16 was extremely quick cooking our pizza in under a minute. We enjoyed the pizza which had a fluffy crust with the tell-tale charred spots you can only achieve in a pizza oven.
The Karu 12 is the same model as the Karu 16, but more compact with room for a 12” pizza. This not only means it’s convenient to store when not being used, but it could also be a good option if you’ve got limited outdoor space but still want to cook your own pizzas. Just make sure that any outdoor space where you’re cooking is well ventilated.
Unlike the Karu 16, this pizza oven doesn’t have a door, but rather just an opening where you can move pizzas in and out.
The Karu 12G is an upgraded model of the Ooni Karu 12. There are a few differences between the two, with the Karu 12G being slightly larger and heavier than the older model. Ooni defines the main difference between the two as energy efficiency — the new model requires 1.1kg of fuel to cook 10 pizzas, while the original Karu 12 needs 1.5kg to cook the same number.
The Koda 16 is a gas-fuelled pizza oven which means it doesn’t have the distinctive chimney featured on the multi-fuel and wood fired models. This results in a much sleeker look, which makes it an elegant and understated addition to a garden.
Weighing 18.2kg the machine will take some effort to move around. Once you have it in place, the pizza oven uses an L-shaped flame to ensure even cooking, but be aware that when we tested other Ooni models with this same flame technology we found the pizza burnt very easily so it’s best to keep an eye while you’re cooking and turn the pizza as often as necessary.
When we tested the Koda 12 we found it impressive and easy to set up. The oven is modest and compact, with room to cook a 12” pizza, and was lightweight enough for us to move it with ease.
While Ooni claims this oven can cook a pizza in 60 seconds, we found a better technique was to cook for slightly longer with the stone at the lower temperature of 450C which allowed us to have more control of the evenness of the cooking.
Because of the compact nature of this model, the opening of the pizza oven is quite tight, and we found that it required a bit of practice along with a deft flick of the wrist to accurately launch our pizzas. Overall this is an accomplished pizza oven and would make a great addition to your garden especially if you’re limited on space.
The first of its kind, the Volt 12 uses electricity rather than wood or gas to reach an internal temperature of 450C and is suitable for indoor use. So if it’s not quite the sunny summer’s day you were hoping for, or if you’d rather avoid the potential mess and expense of wood-fired and gas-fuelled options, this is the pizza oven for you.
The design of the oven is modern and sturdy with a matte shell, tempered glass door and intuitive controls. It is fairly bulky and won’t sit on most standard kitchen countertops, so you will need a designated space with a safe perimeter around the oven.
We were very impressed by the speed of this pizza oven when we tested it. Once it was up to temperature our pizzas consistently cooked in 2 minutes 30 seconds, with an impressively puffed up crust and deliciously crispy toppings.
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This is the latest offering from Ooni, using wood pellets to get all the flavours of a wood-fired pizza but with low maintenance. It’s most similar in look to the Karu 12 multi-fuel oven, except it has a second chimney at the back of the oven to insert the wood pellets.
The wood pellets are designed to burn more evenly than logs, which should mean that pizzas cook at a more consistent heat than in a traditional wood-fired oven. You can buy the pellets directly from Ooni but they are an additional cost to the oven.
The oven can reach temperatures of 500C and will take at least 15 minutes to heat.
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Gozney Dome vs Ooni Karu 16
When comparing the two most premium models from each brand, there are some key differences. We really liked both of these pizza ovens when we tested them, in fact they both scored an impressive 4.5/5 stars.
The first difference is a financial one — the Gozney Dome costs over £1,000 more than the Ooni Karu 16. While there are different and arguably more advanced functions available from Gozney’s model, this is no small amount of money and an important factor to take into account.
In terms of size, there isn’t that much between them, although the Karu 16 has folding legs while the Dome needs to sit on a stable surface or a stand. There is a big difference however in weight — at 58kg the Dome weighs nearly double the Karu 16 and will certainly need two people to lift and move it safely.
The primary difference to consider when choosing between these two pizza ovens is function — what will you be using your pizza oven for? Both ovens produce a restaurant-quality, delicious pizza. But if you’re after a greater level of versatility, the Dome comes with an internal thermometer plus two meat thermometers so you can test joints of meat, fish and poultry to make sure they’re perfectly cooked.
If you’re in the market for a portable pizza oven, the Gozney Roccbox and Ooni Koda 12 are both great options, gaining 4/5 and 4.5/5 on test respectively by our experts. These two models share a lot of similarities, but there are some key differences which might help you to decide which is right for you.
The first difference is financial — the Gozney Roccbox is the pricier of the two at £399, while the Ooni Koda 12 is £50 less at £349. However, if you keep an eye out you might be able to find a good deal, if you’re interested in deals, our friends at bbcgoodfood.com have a guide to the best pizza oven deals.
The main difference between these two pizza ovens is the fuel type. While the Ooni Koda 12 uses gas, the Gozney Roccbox has the capability to be used with gas or wood fuel. There are pluses and minuses to each fuel method, so it really depends on what’s right for you. If you’re looking for ease and consistency, if you plan on making pizzas with kids or with a large group, gas can be really useful. It means the oven is quick to heat up and you can use a dial to control the flame level, thus ensuring a more even cook on your pizzas. The dual-fuel capacity of the Roccbox means you can use wood fuel which imparts the classic taste associated with traditional pizza ovens.
A dual oven doesn’t let you use multiple fuel types simultaneously, but it means you can adapt the oven for different situations. It’s also worth remembering that you’ll need to buy gas canisters or wooden fuel separately to your pizza oven, which will contribute to the overall cost.
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olivemagazine<![CDATA[Best new restaurants in London to visit in 2024]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1896092024-01-11T16:28:09Z2024-01-10T10:15:04Z
Looking for new restaurants in London? We’ve visited the hot new openings in the capital to come up with our regularly updated best London restaurants list, expertly reviewed by our team…
Catherine Street by Jamie Oliver marks the chef’s return to the London restaurant scene. A menu of comforting classics includes starters of devilled eggs, oysters and mushrooms on toast; sharing dishes like ox cheek pie and Sutton Hoo chicken with stroganoff sauce; homemade pastas, daily fish specials, steak and Trevor’s chicken, named in honour of Jamie’s father. Desserts include sticky toffee pudding and the River Café Nemesis cake, a nod to the restaurant Jamie worked in when he was discovered as a TV chef. Enter through an impressive garden-like courtyard with twinkly lights into a dramatic, buzzing main room with comfortable booths, antique lamps and modern art and photography. Suppliers are name-checked, with meat from HG Walter, Cobble Lane Cured charcuterie and Coombeshead Farm bread. jamieolivercatherinest.com
Photograph: David Cotwsorth
Bistro Freddie, Shoreditch
Tucked in the quiet back streets between Shoreditch High Street and Old Street stations, almost another world from the hustle of east London that surrounds it, Bistro Freddie has a distinct classic neighbourhood bistro feel, offering generous, down-to-earth hospitality and a menu featuring the best produce of the British Isles. There’s an intimate 45-cover open-plan dining room and plenty of top-quality tipples focussing on small and predominantly independent producers and growers. bistrofreddie.com
Photograph: Oskar Proctor
Bébé Bob, Soho
Bébé Bob is younger sibling to Bob Bob Ricard (of champagne button fame), so high glamour is the name of the game. Ultra-comfortable and gorgeous to look at, the venue is a clever backdrop to what is essentially a menu centred around roast chicken (Vendée or Landes). But, what roast chicken. Rotisseried and served with roast potatoes (chicken fat, of course) and/or chips, and a salad, if you like. Super-luxe starters include three types of caviar or VSOP prawn cocktail, and desserts offer an option of lemon-infused vodka served at -18C, or a perfectly formed paris-brest. Drink champagne, or choose a wine, of which there are a commendable amount served by the glass. bebebob.com
Roketsu, Marylebone
Daisuke Hayashi, trained at Yoshihiro Murata’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant Kikunoi, learned the principles of kaiseki from one of its masters and has been delighting Londoners looking for an authentic taste of Japanese fine dining since opening Roketsu in 2021.
With a more relaxed à la carte experience in mind, Daisuke opened the Bo-Sen wine and dining room downstairs in 2023. With just eight covers, the experience is intimate, the wooden panelling and low mid-century furniture creating an atmosphere that’s just as refined as the minimalist counter-dining space on the ground floor. Daisuke’s handling of seasonal produce remains respectful, balancing flavours and ingredients precisely. Light dishes crafted to be enjoyed alongside extensive wine and sake lists include vegetable takiawase of simmered vegetables with dashi jelly, tsukuri of the day comprising four kinds of beautifully cut sashimi and flavour-packed homemade curry.
Plating is artful and every detail of the Bo-Sen space has been considered, from the elegant furnishings in rich colours to the bespoke Kyoto crockery. roketsu.co.uk
Origin City, Smithfield
Nose-to-tail restaurant in West Smithfield
Provenance is key to the offering at family-owned Origin City. Meat comes from the owner’s farm in Argyll, the seafood from their aquafarm, Loch Fyne Oysters, and the wine list features wines from their organic vineyard in Provence. Butchery and ageing happen in-house, which add to the validity of their promise of pasture to plate and nose-to-tail dining. The room is atmospheric at night, with wooden floors, crisp white tablecloths, and an open chef’s pass allowing you to see the team at work. The seasonal, daily-changing menu favours meat with a small fish and vegetarian selection. Starters range from grilled Morteau sausage, deep Puy lentils and mustard dressing or an excellent pork tonnato with a delicate tuna dressing and caperberries. Mains include a daily chef’s cut of steak, served with rich jus, hispi cabbage and crunchy onions, or a black pig cut of the day with celeriac purée, onion squash and sauce charcutière and diners are given a choice of knife. Desserts are classics such as sticky toffee pudding. origincity.co.uk
Pasero, Tottenham
After moving to London and starting a series of supper clubs around Tottenham, Genevieve Sparrow ventured into a bricks and mortar business. As a morning-to-night venture, Pasero serves coffee and pastries, breakfasts, lunchtime sandwiches and small plates with wine in the evenings, as well as a deli shop to pick up fresh local bread and high-quality charcuterie, among other things.
Its new resident head chef, Angelos Angelides – hailing from the likes of BRAT and Honey & Co – delivers a European menu influenced by his Cypriot and Serbian heritage that features simple but flavour-packed dishes. Start with revitalised classics, bright and vibrant tzatziki and – a particular highlight – the creamiest taramasalata with deliciously salty and crispy shoestring fries. Order plenty of Pasero’s sourdough to dredge through all of this; you’ll also need it for a molten disc of baked goat’s cheese topped with sweet roasted red pepper alongside a bitter puntarelle salad. Other veggie-forward dishes also impress: baked giant beans with feta are satisfyingly hearty while a brown chilli butter supercharges the nuttiness of roast jerusalem artichokes. Don’t miss out on afters – a choice of Neal’s Yard cheeses and luxurious desserts including delicate chestnut and nutmeg cake with poached pear and whisky caramel, and, our favourite, almond-based Daim cake with a thick topping of crunchy nut-flecked milk chocolate. pasero.uk
Maresco, Soho
Following successful openings in Crouch End and Stoke Newington, the team behind local favourites Bar Esteban and Escocesa has ventured into central London with this intimate 48-cover space in the heart of Soho. Billed as a modern tapas bar (with a more formal dining room on the basement floor), expect a seafood-focussed menu at Maresco, featuring top-quality Scottish produce served with Spanish flair and (a lot) of Spanish wine. maresco.co.uk
Ikoyi, The Strand
Jeremy Chan and Iré Hassan-Odukale’s second iteration of their highly acclaimed West African fine-dining restaurant at 180 The Strand. The spice-focussed menu has evolved to new heights and cooking techniques courtesy of a much bigger space, while keeping the theme more than ever on micro-seasonal British ingredients. ikoyilondon.com
Llama Inn, The Hoxton
Having built a cult following in New York, Juan Correa and chef Erik Ramirez have brought their critically acclaimed Llama Inn and its playful taste of Peru across the Atlantic, taking over the rooftop restaurant at The Hoxton hotel in east London. The menu draws inspiration from the chef’s Peruvian-American background and the drinks list features many of the original NYC signature serves alongside a wine list with a focus on low-intervention and biodynamic wines. thehoxton.com
Kima, Marylebone
Fin-to-gill dining concept from modern Greek restaurant OPSO
It’s all about the small details at this minimalist dining room in Marylebone; wave-inspired crockery is handmade in a studio in Corfu and the restaurant’s name, which means “wave” in Greek, is elegantly displayed on one wall. Whole fish glisten on ice at the front, while a selection of cuts for the gill-to-fin menu age in glass-fronted fridges. An example of this zero-waste dining style is sea bream crudo lifted by thyme and lemon zest followed by the ‘shank’ of the same fish served with bacon-studded cabbage fricassee. An elegant take on a Greek salad accompanies, with aged feta crowning a bowl of chopped tomatoes and cucumber, doused in Greek olive oil poured from a carafe to meld with the juices, in which diners are encouraged to dip homemade sourdough. The “wave” theme extends to dessert, where caramelised seaweed plays a glorious role in a crisp millefeuille-tiramisu hybrid layered with coffee cream and caramelised nuts. Cocktails are infused with Greek ingredients – mastic Votanikon gin adds herbaceous notes to a basil cocktail, while clarified feta is used to create a unique twist on a sour. The selection of Greek wines includes a minerally white from Santorini, thoughtfully recommended by one of the very helpful, friendly Greek servers. kimarestaurant.com
Sparrow Italia, Mayfair
From downtown LA to Mayfair, this plush modern Italian incorporates Med twists into its smart menu. Set over three floors with a secluded courtyard on the first, the menu presents luxe versions of classics including A5 wagyu carpaccio with pickled mushrooms and truffle, and lobster linguine with aqua pazza. sparrowitalia.com
Manzi’s, Soho
Latest off the block from the Wolseley Hospitality Group, Manzi’s is as glamorous as nautical comes. Set over two floors and with bright, airy blue and white interiors, this is a place of comfort and attention to detail. Head chef Christian Turner’s menu encompasses a beautifully executed monkfish wellington and cioppino fish stew, as well as oysters and dressed crab, Galician-style octopus, fish finger sandwiches and lobster rolls. Non-fish dishes are also available, including leeks mimosa and devilled egg, and roast Landes chicken. manzis.co.uk
Socca, Mayfair
The food of the Côte d’Azur is known for its sunshine and chic, effortless vibes, elements captured exactly in Mayfair’s Socca. The palette of pastels and baby blue inside and out, art from local artists and waiters are decidedly French, and the menu reflects that, too. Informed by Claude Bosi’s memories of eating the food in the south of France as a child, fish and seafood is celebrated, the aperitif menu is plentiful and, of course, there’s the namesake socca – a type of thin, unleavened pancake or crêpe made from chickpea flour. soccabistro.com
Edit, Hackney
This hyper-seasonal restaurant has a real commitment to sustainability with a zero-waste menu that uses ingredients from small farms, producers and foragers. The Daily Edit tasting menu changes to suit what is available. Clever cooking, including a risotto made with British Carlin peas, oat cream and oyster mushrooms, elevates dishes beyond the ordinary. Tasting menu £55pp; edit.london
Chet’s, Shepherd’s Bush
LA chef Kris Yenbamroong has brought his tried and tested Thai-American menu to the lively Shepherd’s Bush Hoxton Hotel. Cocktails are unique, food is playful and flavours are punchy: its signature pineapple rice served in the shell, babka french toast and exuberantly garnished ice cream sundaes. Décor is La La Land chic – a soft warm pink palette, oversized plants, a huge skylight, open kitchen and retro booths – a nod to the American diner. Open from breakfast till late. chetsrestaurant.co.uk
Akoko, Fitzrovia
Executive chef Ayo Adeyemi’s tasting menu is rooted in tradition but sharply executed with great imaginative flair. Dishes may include tatale (Ghanaian plantain pancakes) with cashew cream and caviar, or moi-moi (a steamed pudding of puréed black-eyed beans with onions, peppers and stock) served with the Afro-Brazilian seafood and coconut milk sauce, vatapá. Tasting menu £120; akoko.co.uk
Taku, Mayfair
The capital is currently enthralled by the intimacy and theatre of omakase dining; where, in sleekly designed counter-dining cocoons, highly skilled chefs prepare seasonal tasting menus for attentive diners. Chef Takuya Watanabe bagged a Michelin star within four months of opening this Mayfair 16-seater. Using mainly British produce, he is creating some of the city’s most elegant, flavourful hot seafood dishes and sushi. Tasting menu from £160pp; takumayfair.com
Harvest, Kensal Rise
Chef Jesse Dunford Wood (Parlour, Six Portland Road) puts a fun, populist spin on seasonal British food. His latest venue, Harvest, offers a good-value lunch (three courses, £20) with mains including mackerel, fried potatoes, sorrel and apple ketchup, while at dinner, family sharing dishes for three or four include a whole roast chicken, chips and salad for £60. Mains from £19; harvestrestaurantuk.com
Empire Empire, Notting Hill
The Indian disco era of the 1970s inspired this new opening from Harneet Baweja (Gunpowder). Eat traditional dishes such as bihari boti kebab, tandoori broccoli and chicken malai tikka from the open grill serenaded by 70s Bollywood bangers from the bespoke jukebox. For the ultimate in luxe dining order the showstopping lobster dum biryani to share, £42 – complete with the crustacean’s head emerging from the pastry lid. empire-empire.restaurant
Sushi on Jones, King’s Cross
With omakase menu prices often heading into triple figures, it’s refreshing that this London outpost of a New York fave brings it in for £48 for 12 courses. It’s an intimate space with only eight seats at a counter, so you can watch as head sushi chef Mattia Aranini and his team prepare and explain each course. Tasting menu £48; sushionjones.com
Bossa, Mayfair
Chef Alberto Landgraf has brought his vision of high-end authentic Brazilian cooking from Rio to Mayfair with punchy sharing plates such as seafood moqueca. But wine is equally the star here with one of South America’s best sommeliers, Laís Aoki, ready to guide diners through the perfect pairing. Small plates from £27; bossa.co.uk
Speedboat Bar, Chinatown
Despite London having possibly the best nightlife in the UK, it feels rare to get a spot like Speedboat Bar. Open until late on the weekend (you can get your fill of fiery cuisine and party vibes until 1am), this Thai canteen in Chinatown, brought to you by Plaza Khao Gaeng’s Luke Farrell, has décor almost as bombastic as the flavours. Once you’re done looking at the framed pics of the Thai royal family or playing a game of pool, get your tongue tingling with a menu that would satisfy any chilli fanatic. And don’t forget to cool down after with a creamy cocktail or a tower of beer. speedboatbar.co.uk
Pavyllon, Four Seasons Hotel at Park Lane
No one does comfort like a five-star hotel, and French chef Yannick Alléno has settled into the Four Seasons in London with the full weight of his 15 Michelin stars. Pavyllon (an outpost of the Paris restaurant of the same name) is run by executive chef Andy Cook when Yannick is away. There’s a huge counter overlooking the open kitchen – sit here for the drama. Try the curry man’ouché; the warm potatoes glazed with lovage mayo, with kombu broth, seaweed and cucumber; and the lamb (recipe, right). Plus, Bar Antoine’s cocktail list by Michele Lombardi can be enjoyed with a bar menu. pavyllonlondon.com
Fazenda, Bishopsgate
Modern take on South-American rodizio dining
Fazenda is inspired by the Pampas – the South American grasslands where cattle were raised by skilled horsemen known as gauchos. Co-founder Tomas Maunier, born in Brazil and raised in Argentina, is passionate about churrasco – the method of grilling and sharing meat from the rotisserie. The London restaurant is the latest in the six-strong Fazenda group. The main appeal is the rodizio overseen by chef Francisco Martinez: 12 grilled meats including picanha (beef rump), chuletas de cordero (lamb cutlets), barriga de porco (pork belly) and sobrecoxa de frango (chicken thighs), all carved tableside.
Help yourself from a central table with salads, cured meats and cheeses. A la carte appetisers include choripan de wagyu – wagyu beef éclair with chimichurri mayo – and a starter of tonnato vitello – yellowfin tuna with beef cream emulsion and capers. Desserts continue in a South American vein; caipirinha cheesecake or picada dulce (white chocolate, strawberry and raspberry shortbread). The venue features walnut wood panels, brass, leather seats and parquet flooring – all elegantly lit. At the ground-floor bar, sample the tangy Sour Birdie (pisco sour) and Baby Ferdinand, Fazenda’s take on an Argentinian classic, fernet con cola. There’s also a well-selected wine list, including the fruit-forward Montesco Parral. fazenda.co.uk
BAO Mary, Marylebone
BAO Mary is the fifth iteration of the much-loved cult Taiwanese steamed buns and xiao chi small plates concept which has been delighting Londoners since 2013 when friends Shing Tat Chung, Erchen Chang and Wai Ting Chung served their first gua bao on the streets of the city. They’ve made themselves right at home with modern, sleek interiors and knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff bringing plates out from the open kitchen.
On the menu, you’ll find the full range of bao (featuring the Classic, a lamb bao with garlic mayo and soy pickled chilli, and Taiwanese fried chicken bao with kimchi and Sichuan mayo), plus xiao chi (‘small eats’, including tender beef tendon nuggets with burnt chilli sauce). There’s also a dumpling menu, which draws inspiration from the dumpling houses around Taiwan, and is exclusive to this site. The succinct drinks menu includes just three Japanese and Taiwanese whiskies; three Taiwanese-themed cocktails; one fizz, red and white wine; and a handful of beers and softs. Don’t forget the signature Horlicks ice cream fried bao dessert. baolondon.com
Bancone Borough Yards, London Bridge
Popular pasta joint Bancone recently opened its third restaurant in buzzy Borough Yards. The renovated railway arch allows lots of light to shine through onto diners, while the open kitchen and bar add a familiar but unobtrusive clatter of pasta tossing and cocktail shaking to the buzz. Kick off with a negroni – classic, white or floral orange blossom. Simple, elegant antipasti let hero ingredients shine – grilled artichoke hearts on crunchy romesco ends with a subtle chilli kick, while lardo is melted onto thick toast and drizzled in truffle-laced honey. Tarragon lends a hint of aniseed to duck ragu folded between layers of jaggedy fazzoletti pasta. Unique to the Borough Yards menu is the gorgonzola, Swiss chard and guanciale pappardelle – a rich, grown up, glossy take on carbonara. The signature silk handkerchiefs are a Bancone crowdpleaser, bathing in walnut butter and topped with a confit egg yolk to stir through. To finish, the praline cannolo is the sweet hit you need with a coffee, coated in crunchy crystallised hazelnuts. Or the flourless chocolate cake is just rich enough, balanced with an arty swipe of mascarpone and lime zest to lift. bancone.co.uk
Parakeet, Kentish Town
Being north Londoners and former Brat chefs, Ben Allen and Ed Jennings are the perfect pair to bring The Parakeet to Kentish Town. With dark interiors, stained glass windows and a warm glow cast over the intimate booths, there’s a church-like feel, which makes sense given the religious following from locals. With Ben at the helm as head chef, the menu is informed by the wood-fired oven and grill, and includes grilled lettuce and shrimp head butter, leeks with pecorino sauce, and smoked mushrooms with mackerel. theparakeetpub.com
Campaner, Chelsea
Set in a new building at Chelsea Barracks, Campaner provides a modern look at Spain, from the Barcelona restaurant group Los Reyes del Mango. Dishes make use of local ingredients or those sourced from producers of excellence. Seafood is a star, whether that’s oysters with bloody mary cream, Catalan socarrat with prawns, or fish from the Josper grill. Hidden away under the airy restaurant and accessed by an outer door is The Clandesti, a bar with the opposite vibe – darkly secret. thecampaner.com
Chung’dam, Greek Street
Named after the bustling Cheongdam-dong district in Seoul, Chung’dam is a contemporary Korean restaurant combining modern Korean cooking with traditional cooking techniques, paired with the finest ingredients in a sleek and refined space that’s designed to facilitate an interactive dining experience taking you on a journey through all your senses. With an impressive cocktail list that features rice wine and soju alongside a global wine list, Chung’dam attempts to live up to the vibrant reputation of its namesake. chungdam.co.uk
Kapara, Soho
Inspired by the rooftop bars and vibrant dining scene of Tel Aviv, this is a new all-day restaurant headed up by Israeli-born chef Eran Tibi. With its airy, chandelier-decked room, plush banquette seating, punchy cocktail list and cool soundtrack, Kapara gives off a luxurious clubby vibe. Cocktails deliver – The Glory Mole is a perfectly balanced, invigorating mix of tequila, hibiscus, cardamom, ginger, lime and soda. Food is for sharing here. Snacks, small and large plates come as and when they are ready, and the flavours – although Israeli inspired – move easily around the globe. Don’t miss the Bala bake – a trio of warm breads served with whipped butter and tomato herb dip, and the star is the kubaneh a sweet almost briochy bread that was fought over. The baklava prawns – three huge crustaceans wrapped in a kadaifi pastry shell and served with a soured cream, Persian lime and nori dust was a texture sensation – are crunchy, sweet, soft and tart. Other highlights included a meltingly soft slow-cooked lamb belly with a sweet and sour plum ketchup, fresh plums and lemon thyme, and a carpaccio of coal roasted peppers with creamy house-made fresh goat’s cheese, basil and rose. If you have room for pudding, order the Gramp’s cigar – a playful chocolate, passion fruit and pastry-based dessert that was both surprising and absolutely delicious. kapara.co.uk
Story Cellar, Covent Garden
The new Covent Garden restaurant from Tom Sellers (of Restaurant Story) is inspired by Parisian brasseries, with a specific focus on rotisserie chicken. A comfortable space with marble, plush red leather seating and dark, panelled walls, the emphasis is on countertop dining – sit here to feel the heat from the spit, and watch and interact with the team at work. Head chef Stephen Naylor serves up relaxed small plates which allow the ingredients to shine: house-cured meats; a salad of grilled roots, smoked onion and Old Winchester cheese; and snail bolognaise on toast with wild garlic butter – the bread is smoked, a detail that makes a food dish outstanding. A hand-dived scallop in rich, hot XO sauce is another highlight. Direct from the grill is fish of the day, such as red mullet with ratatouille and red pepper, and a half or whole rotisserie chicken, served with French fries and sauces including cowboy (buttery, peppery, garlicky) and a glossy chicken jus. Puddings range from must-order almond and dill soft serve, tart of the day, or trifle with preserved rhubarb and pistachio. Next-door neighbours Neals Yard Dairy supply seasonal British cheeses. A range of rare and fine wines can be ordered by the glass (thanks to the Coravin system) and is aided by expert, but never stuffy, service. storycellar.co.uk
Mayha, Marylebone
This Japanese omakase features just 11 covers – guests sit around a curved wood and stone bar, behind which chef Jurek Wasio sends out plate after meticulously crafted plate in a daily-changing tasting menu that, in keeping with the omakase tradition, is entirely the preserve of the chef. As a guest, all you need to do is sit back and enjoy the ensuing feast.
Start with a sparkling sake and a round of raw dishes – blue fin tuna belly tartare on sourdough topped with a briny mound of Polish caviar is a particular highlight. Meat dishes include wagyu tenderloin dusted in shaved summer truffle, as luscious and deeply umami as you might expect. The sushi sequence of the meal is the highlight – a stream of plump nigiri that showcase the impeccable quality of the produce used at Mayha: creamy scallop; lightly seared, butter-soft salmon belly; delicately sweet langoustine; dry-aged blue fin tenderloin; the list goes on. Fragrant cups of bamboo dashi and lobster miso, and a palate-cleansing rhubarb sorbet punctuate the meal. It all ends simply, but effectively, with a scoop of chocolate ice cream in a grassy pool of Sicilian olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
Head downstairs before or after dinner to Mayha’s intimate six-seater bar, which offers its own five-course omakase meal paired with cocktails. mayhalondon.com
Nessa, Soho
Nessa is a sophisticated bistro situated right in the bustle of London’s Soho. Enter the striking horseshoe bar and you’ll see a range of UK producers on display, including no- or low-alcohol options – as well as the option to order snacks and small plates. The space has been fully renovated with the style of the neo-baroque building in mind – it’s stylish with lots of marble, oak and brass fixtures, and fittings on the art-lined walls. In the dining room, you’ll find booths and an open kitchen, where Executive Chef Tom Cenci (formerly of Loyal Tavern and Duck & Waffle) has devised a menu of British influences with global flavours, focusing on seasonality. The ‘bread & snacks’ include the BBQ spiced crisps, and cheese and onion croquettes with a grape mustard mayo. Small plates range from aged beef tartare with beef fat and charred sourdough, to a deeply pleasing, Insta-friendly black pudding brioche with brown butter noisette, and Nessa’s signature celeriac carbonara with pancetta, confit egg and winter truffle. There are sharing plates on offer, too – a whole roast chicken with fries and gravy or rib of beef on gravy-soaked bread. Desserts lean towards the classics: baked alaska, jam roly-poly, and the ‘Nessabockerglory,’ all given an indulgent, modern, twist. nessasoho.com
Sohaila, Shoreditch
Sohaila is a restaurant and natural wine bar created by social enterprise Fat Macy’s (which supports people in temporary accommodation via culinary training), serving modern Middle Eastern food. It’s named after founder Nathalie Moukarzel’s grandmother and a lot of the recipes are inspired by her. Dishes use local and sustainable ingredients, and the menu changes often to minimise food waste. Plates often include labneh and chilli butter, deep-fried mussels, and halloumi and figs. Cocktails use similar flavours, such as the martini overleaf. sohailarestaurant.com
Lilienblum, Old Street
Israeli chefs Eyal Shani and Oren King have joined forces to open a theatrical ode to Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food, where large groups cheer at celebrations, fresh tomatoes hold down brown paper tablecloths ready to be filled with sharing plates, and a sage burner is paraded round to mingle with spices from the tile-and-copper backed open kitchen. Reserve a spot at the counter to watch chefs stir fresh tomatoes through homemade pasta, bake pizza-like focaccia and grate horseradish over charcuterie-style sliced beetroot. Waiters help decipher playful menu items such as “6 spicy instruments that will swirl your soul”, aka a palate of salsa and spices to lift your dishes, and silky, smoky signature hummus topped with whole chickpeas and green chilli salsa. Meat dishes range from minute steak, prepared crisp like bacon and slathered in tahini, to the “dinosaur bone” short rib cooked over 24 hours. Seafood fans should try the light yet comforting clams slow cooked with springy farro. Strong contenders on the dessert menu include zesty pistachio cake and silky chocolate mousse with salted butter cookies. Pair with a smooth, tahini-laced espresso martini, or refreshing Oren’s Memories cocktail that evokes the aromas of the spice markets in Jerusalem. lilienblum.co.uk
Joia, Battersea Power Station
With a view that looks out over the transformed Battersea Power Station, Joia, with its floor-to-ceiling windows pouring light onto the warm pastel interiors, literally shines – which is apt, given that its name means ‘jewel’ in Portuguese. Perched at the top of Art’otel, Joia is London’s first offering from Michelin-starred Henrique Sá Pessoa, with the main restaurant, a vermouth and wine bar, and an additional rooftop bar spread over three floors. The menu, simply created using the best ingredients available, includes dishes such as bulhão pato mussels, suquet – a monkfish and red prawn stew – and hand-dived scallops with black aïoli sabayon. joiabattersea.co.uk
Maene, Shoreditch
Blink and you’ll miss the entrance to Nick Gilkinson’s latest restaurant, marked with a subtle ‘M’ on a graffiti-clad backstreet in Shoreditch. Head upstairs past the yoga studio to a stunning room that was once a textile factory; white curtains waft against floor-to-ceiling windows, filament lightbulbs hang from lofty ceilings, and rough floorboards are lined with sweeping blue banquettes. There’s a separate concrete bar for cocktails and a soon-to-open large terrace with city views.
Kick off with caramelised whipped brown butter to slather onto Snapery sourdough. Leftovers of the latter are used to make a syrup for a smooth rye whisky old fashioned-style cocktail that shares the line up with other zero-waste drinks (other ingredients include potato skin liqueur, spirulina cordial and used coffee grounds), each with its own thought-out non-alcoholic counterpart. Starter-size dishes include whipped Sussex ricotta with jammy pickled beetroot and citrussy lemon thyme, and multicoloured Nutbourne tomatoes neatly arranged into a wafer-thin tart case. Seared slices of pork loin are accompanied by a hazelnut pesto, and whole Cornish sole is lifted with pickled fennel and Spitalfields City Farm greens whizzed into a bright, grassy sauce. Complement with crispy Morphew Farm heritage potatoes with smoked yogurt. maenerestaurant.co.uk
Cinder, St John’s Wood
With its interior of exposed brick and original tiling, this gem of a small restaurant serves punchy, open-fire, modern Mediterranean plates. Dishes are to be shared, and many are vegetable-focussed. We nibbled on exemplary arancini, stuffed with a putanesca-like mixture of sun-dried tomatoes, olives and capers, and velvety taramasalata served with chunks of burnished bread, and perky radishes with their peppery leaves. From the ‘vegetable patch’, the aubergine tahini with tomatoes and mint was rich while still being fresh, and the burnt leeks had been rendered to an almost purée softness then punctuated with the crunch of hazelnuts seasoned with salty pecorino. Rude not to try the signature cedar salmon, a fish that takes well to smoke, and when enjoyed with a side of the triple-cooked new potatoes, it felt like a classic combination brought right up to date. From the meat section the glazed confit of duck fell off the bone and, with a hint of star anise, fermented chilli sauce and coriander salad, felt more Asia than Med, not that we’re complaining. Not a dull note hit and, while we didn’t have room for the two desserts on offer, we’ll be back again for sure. cinderrestaurant.co.uk
Caia, Notting Hill
Rishabh Vir and Tim Lang aren’t new to the Notting Hill area, with restaurant/bar/lounge Fiend under their belt. But Caia brings something fresh – open-fire cooking and a knowing hand from chef Jessica Donovan. If the dimmed, relaxed space doesn’t keep you (the downstairs dining room feels like a living room with a record player and vinyl), the surprisingly complex flavours will. Rich flavours filter throughout from the grilled smoky potatoes with roast garlic, miso and parmesan, to the octopus with burnt pepper and ’nduja crumb. Just there for drinks? Head to the wine room with expertly curated bottles from Beth Brickenden. caia.london
Jacuzzi, West Kensington
Jacuzzi is the fourth London outpost from the Big Mamma Group. Spread over four floors, this decadent Italian mansion is kitted out with a giant lemon tree, botanical mezzanine and even a disco bathroom. Luxury menu highlights include truffle pasta served in a 4kg wheel of pecorino, a caviar and bottarga-topped pizzette and Valrhona chocolate fondue. bigmammagroup.com
Rambutan, Borough Market
Cynthia Shanmugalingam has launched her first restaurant inspired by her Tamil roots. It incorporates fresh market ingredients into dishes inspired by Sri Lanka’s northern capital Jaffna. Try street-food snacks including aged mutton rolls and spicy fish malu buns, as well as Jaffna crab fried rice and grilled turmeric and tamarind mackerel. rambutanlondon.com
Stay tuned for more reviews of new restaurants in London
Reviews by Christine Hayes, Lulu Grimes, Helen Salter, Hannah Guinness, Alex Crossley, Esther Clark, Miriam Nice and Marianne Voyle
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Tracey Raye - Health Editor & Nutritionisthttp://www.traceyraye.com<![CDATA[How to improve your gut health]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1184222024-01-10T11:22:25Z2024-01-10T10:13:43Z
Gut health has been en vogue for quite a few years now, and for good reason. Scientists have discovered that instead of being a simple part of the digestive system, the gut is actually central to several important systems in the body, including brain function and mental resilience, skin health, hormonal balance and even supporting a robust immune system.
The terms ‘gut microbiome’ or ‘gut flora’ are often used in the context of gut health, and simply refer to all the microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi, living within your intestines. Most of us house roughly 300-500 different species of bacteria within our digestive tract, with some of these being potentially harmful and others beneficial or even essential to our health and well-being.
As it’s such a dynamic system, it can be hard to define exactly what constitutes a healthy gut; however, something that researchers can agree on is that diversity of gut flora is key. So, what lifestyle choices can support gut diversity?
How to improve your gut health
1. Manage your stress
Did you know that excess stress can impact the diversity of your gut flora? In fact, stress may even reduce beneficial bacterial species such as lactobacilli. While our bodies are relatively well-equipped to deal with a little bit of stress, it can impact the health and balance of our gut in the long-run. For this reason, try to identify and manage the causes of your stress – you may find that all you require is some more structured relaxation time.
2. Embrace dietary diversity
Are you a habitual eater who generally eats the same few meals every week? Even if these meals are balanced with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables, choosing the same foods repeatedly isn’t necessarily the best thing for your gut. This is because different foods contain a variety of fibres and nutrients that feed different strains of bacteria in your gut. Therefore, in order to maintain bacterial diversity, you want to consume as great a variety of healthy foods as possible.
Regular exercise is important for a variety of reasons, as it contributes to muscle tone, mental well-being and heart health (to name a few), but did you know that higher fitness levels can also have a beneficial effect on your gut health by supporting bacterial diversity?
4. Consider an enzyme or probiotic
While you can’t ‘supplement away’ issues with the foundation of your health (i.e. a healthy diet and lifestyle), taking a probiotic or digestive enzyme may be a welcome support. Some individuals can find benefit from digestive enzymes which aid the body’s natural ability to breakdown proteins, fats and carbohydrates, while probiotics can support a healthy balance of beneficial bacteria.
There are plenty of foods that contain natural enzymes such as bananas, papaya and pineapple, while things like kefir (check out our recipes here), sauerkraut, yogurt and tempeh offer a source of probiotics. If you are interested in considering a supplement, speak to your dietitian or nutritionist for advice on the right one for you.
All health content on olivemagazine.com is provided for general information only, and should not be treated as a substitute for the medical advice of your own doctor or any other healthcare professional. Any healthy content featured by olive is provided as a suggestion of a general balanced diet and should not be relied upon to meet specific dietary requirements. If you have any concerns about your general health, you should contact your local healthcare provider. See our website terms and conditions for more information.
Tracey Raye is the health editor for olive and BBC Good Food. Tracey, MSc, is a registered nutritionist, holding a master’s degree in personalised nutrition. She is passionate about harnessing the power of all things health and well-being in a way that enhances, rather than limits, our lives. She covers our nourishing recipes and collections, oversees our health strategy and stays adrift of the latest health and lifestyle trends in order to bring you the tools and inspiration you need to find what health means for you.
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Lucy Roxburgh<![CDATA[Best Valentine’s Day gifts for food lovers]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=481352024-01-09T17:04:32Z2024-01-09T16:30:20Z
Looking for Valentine’s Day gift ideas for your favourite foodie? Treat your partner, loved one or best friend to our pick of gifts, including romantic meal kits from our favourite chefs, indulgent edible treats and great-value gifts to give on the day. We have plenty of gifts to deliver to treat your Valentine from afar, as well as our guide to the best chocolate gifts or special best champagne gifts.
Have you ever seen a prettier biscuit tin? Inspired by famous artists from around the world, each heart-shaped shortbread biscuit is hand-decorated with a creative design – our favourite is the graphic Mondrian. They’re too gorgeous to eat! And, the signature tin makes for a deliciously sweet keepsake.
London Dry gin is infused with Yorkshire rhubarb to make this attractive, award-winning gin. It’s the perfect addition to any gin collection at this time of year.
In three sorbet pink shades, these lovely bowls are the perfect nod to romance. Use for dips and crisps, or fill with marshmallows and fruit ready for dipping in chocolate fondue.
The Real Cure letterbox charcuterie selection
Why not put together your own charcuterie board and choose a nice bottle of wine for a romantic evening in. Try this flavoured-packed charcuterie from Dorset. The punchy smoked sloe and garlic venison salami is a winner.
That classic Valentine’s Day gift – a box of chocolates – gets a luxe upgrade. This delectable Fortnum’s caramels selection contains 24 milk and dark offerings in 12 different flavours, from buttery salted caramel to fruity rhubarb, raspberry or elderflower.
Brighten up walls with this simple and colourful apple heart print that’s perfect for hanging in a kitchen. Plus, for an environmentally friendly bonus, Fy! will plant a tree for every print sold.
A boozy gift with a sustainable heart. One for gin fans, South African gin brand Inverroche have paired a bottle of their delicately floral Verdant gin with a packet of wildflower seeds – a twist on giving a classic bouquet. Plant the wildflower seed bomb to enjoy flowers while creating new habitats for bees to protect the UK’s biodiversity.
The latest in this successful roasting tin series by Rukmini Iyer gives the premise a sweet twist and is filled with 75 one-tray recipes. A pretty addition to any cookbook collection, it’s got everything from brownies and traybakes, to cookies and crumbles.
Add a touch of pink to your Valentine’s cocktails with intense Buckinghamshire-made rhubarb fruit syrup. Great with just water, it’s also delicious in a rhubarb gin sour or drizzled over ice cream.
Looking for a Valentine’s gift that lasts a bit longer than chocolate? There’s no better way to symbolise your flourishing love than with a thriving young fig tree. The romantic shape of the fig adds a special touch, and the tree is delivered alongside a jar of the finest fig jam, perfect for breakfast in bed. Make a pretty fig tart with your figs.
You can’t go wrong with chocolates on Valentine’s Day. This chic box contains nine decorative, heart-shaped dark chocolates each filled with strawberry jam and vanilla chocolate ganache. Irresistible.
Making your own soufflés from scratch might seem a bit daunting but if you follow this detailed recipe carefully, yours will be perfect. The rich prune and Armagnac soufflé is served with a boozy Armagnac custard.
This roasted hazelnut soufflé with chocolate sauce recipe is an extract from Sugar, I Love You by Ravneet Gill (£20, Pavilion Books). Ravneet says: “I want to reassure you that a soufflé is not scary. Think of it simply as a thickened base – here a crème pâtissière – with a simple French meringue folded through it. The rise on this is a thing of beauty and it is like eating a fluffy Ferrero Rocher, a true crowd-pleaser. Serve at a dinner party to impress, if the dining table isn’t too far a walk from the kitchen. You can make the hazelnut base in advance and keep it in the fridge for up to three days. Just make sure you loosen it properly before folding the meringue through it.”
Sweet, salty and with bitter notes of caramel and a satisfying crunch from the popcorn, these desserts from Miro in Mayfair have it all. The base of these soufflés is made from a velvety smooth rice purée instead of crème pâtissière – this adds stability, meaning they can be fully assembled a few hours ahead of cooking. You will need four soufflé moulds for this recipe.
If you thought a soufflé was something only to be attempted by skilled chefs, think again. This easy blue cheese soufflé is guaranteed to work, just follow the step-by-step instructions and yours will turn out perfectly.
Don’t be intimidated, make this easy starter or light lunch with step-by-step help. These foolproof soufflés can be chilled or frozen until you need to give them their second baking, so you’ll be stress-free.
This courgette soufflé omelette recipe is really easy, ready in under 30 minutes and just 350 calories, but still tastes delicious. We think it makes the perfect midweek meal for one.
Pistachio soufflés make a really satisfying pudding, and the effort is truly worth it. Our chocolate sauce adds a rich finish to the light and fluffy soufflé. Find pistachio cream or use 2 tbsp finely ground pistachios. A hot baking sheet adds bottom heat to help the soufflés rise. Double buttering the ramekins with upward strokes encourages the soufflé upwards. Running a knife around the top of the soufflé mix (called top hatting) gives a better finish to the soufflé edge.
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Lydia Anderson<![CDATA[12 best stand mixers to buy in 2024]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1617632024-01-09T14:48:49Z2024-01-09T14:48:49Z
Whether given as a gift or a project you’ve lovingly spent the whole day over, there’s something special about a homemade bake. A stand mixer is the appliance of choice for your favourite cakes, bakes and pastry treats.
Hand-beating, whisking and kneading can be laborious and strenuous. But the best stand mixers do the hard work for you, and are considerably faster. There are a whole host of stand mixers on the market, from simply designed but powerful models intended to complete everyday tasks with ease, to high-tech pieces of kit with useful additions.
Stand mixers can vary in price, so choosing the right one for you can be a bit of a minefield. As well as the cost, it’s important to consider what you’ll be using your stand mixer for and which features are important to you. Important elements to consider include aesthetics, power and capacity as well as the number of accessories available for the mixer.
We’ve detailed all the things you should consider before buying a stand mixer and share our tried-and-tested top picks for a range of different cooks and their needs.
Kenwood is one of the biggest names in the world of stand mixers and the Chef Patissier XL is its most advanced model.
This stand mixer is packed to the rafters with useful additions. The Patissier XL comes with two bowls (5L and 7L), integrated scales, an EasyWarm bowl and a touchscreen control panel with presets for a range of key baking dishes.
This model methodically and skilfully worked through all tests, producing high-quality and, most importantly, delicious results.
Don’t be intimidated by all the high-tech features, the Patissier XL is simply a joy to use. But it’s worth bearing in mind that these extra features come at a high cost, so this model is best suited to those who actually need them.
This stand mixer stole our hearts. It stands out on this list for shunning the traditional stand mixer silhouette. But the differences don’t stop there. Rather than featuring a planetary mixing mechanism, the bowl rotates on the Ankarsrum.
Watching the Ankarsrum work is mesmerising, particularly when it comes to bread. It kneads dough with delicacy and respect, and, once baked, our cardamom buns were the most professional-quality of all the buns produced by the models on this list. Cake mixes will need to be helped a little, as the beaters alone weren’t able to fully incorporate all the ingredients.
But the Ankarsrum Assistent is well worth the investment and is clearly built to last. A must-have for bread bakers.
If you’re enchanted by the additions on the Titanium Chef Patissier XL but have no real need for bowl warming or a touchscreen control panel, the Chef Baker XL is a fabulous alternative. It features the same in-built scales and comes with two bowls, ideal for batch baking.
Design-wise, the Chef range is very similar and therefore simple to use. The mixer accelerates at a gentle and considered pace, reaching high speeds thanks to the powerful 1,400-watt motor. The Chef Baker XL helped us achieve fantastic results across all cake making, whisking and dough kneading tasks, and comes at a brilliant price.
This unique offering from Bosch is a hybrid machine: a two-in-one stand mixer and food processor. Included are the three standard stand mixer attachments, as well as grating and slicing discs. This model sits landscape on the counter and has a useful digital display.
In use the attachments rotate rhythmically around the bowl gathering up every ingredient. The cake and meringue tests were a real success but we found the plastic dough hook struggled to stand up to our weighty enriched dough. With lots of useful and well considered extras, the Bosch CreationLine machine offers real bang for your buck.
KitchenAid broadly have two designs when it comes to stand mixers. The first is likely the best known which is the tilt-head model often seen on cookery shows like The Great British Bake Off. This model is in the second design style — the bowl lift mixer. These have bowls which lift directly onto arms extending from the side of the mixer, which can then be lifted to meet the attachment.
If you’re regularly catering for a crowd, a bowl-lift mixer offers a wide range of versatility thanks to its large capacity, and this new model comes with a 5.6L bowl. With 11 speeds to choose from, this is a powerful machine that easily handled all textures of mixture on test from light cake batter to thick enriched dough.
The design does take some getting used to, especially if you’re used to the tilt-head models. We found inserting and removing the bowl from the pins took a certain knack as there’s a clip at the back of the bowl to hold it in place.
The KitchenAid Artisan is the stand mixer that crops up on all the best cooking shows. It’s sturdy, reliable, comes with a wealth of attachments and, best of all, available in a whole host of exciting, daring and interesting colours. There are three different types of Artisan model to choose from – the differences are detailed in our full review.
The Artisan scored highly for its simple and intuitive controls, and easy to fit attachments. Its low wattage meant dough was a little slow to bring together but it excelled on the cake and meringue making tests. Additional features such as the useful handle on the bowl and range of KitchenAid accessories available make the KitchenAid Artisan a reliable and versatile choice.
Featuring a cream or white body and mirrored accents, this Breville stand mixer is sure to suit any kitchen.
Unique to this model is the HeatSoft feature. Choose from ‘soften’ and ‘melt’, and the stand mixer will shoot warm or hot air directly into the bowl; a setting ideal for quickly softening butter or melting chocolate.
But even without this nifty feature, the Breville excelled. Its sturdy attachments brought our brioche dough, cake mix and meringue together quickly and efficiently. Once baked, our test recipes were just the texture we were looking for.
The beater attachment was a particular triumph, as it does a brilliant job of scraping down the sides of the bowl as it mixes. We did have to jump in to lift the mix that sat underneath the beater, though.
This stand mixer has a lot of the features of some of the high-tech models on this list: attractive design, sturdy attachments and unique additions, making it a worthwhile investment for regular home bakers.
Known for its sleek and impressive-looking appliances, Sage has a strong reputation when it comes to performance-focussed pieces of kit. A wealth of useful attachments and accessories are included with the Bakery Boss, highlights being the extra bowl and the scraper beater.
There are also some nifty additions that you don’t find on most stand mixers, including a bowl light and the 12-speed guide, which lets you know the best speed to use for a range of tasks. The Bakery Boss excelled on our meringue and cake making tests. The dough for our cardamom buns became knotted around the dough hook a few times and the necks of each of the attachment are short, meaning we got batter and meringue over our hands.
If you’ve been admiring Kenwood stand mixers for a while but feel the Chef range is either too technical for your needs or slightly more money than you’re happy to spend, the Kenwood kMix provides all the impressive power and high-quality attachments of its Chef counterparts.
Design-wise, it’s more fun looking than the slightly serious Chef range, and is available in a range of fun colours. The 1,000-watt motor powered through all our bakes with ease, producing a light and fluffy cake, and delicate meringue. The dough did get wrapped around the dough hook, which was a shame. But the kMix packs a punch and gets the basics done well.
The Chef Baker is Kenwood’s entry-level model to the Chef range. It’s more pared back than the Chef Baker XL and the Chef Patissier XL in this list but no less impressive, featuring a 5L mixing bowl and the same gentle speed dial. This stand mixer made light work of all three tests, producing exactly the results we were looking for.
Neat and compact, the Chef Baker is an attractive option that doesn’t take up too much space on the kitchen counter. It also features Kenwood’s interchangeable PopTops (removable coloured panels) that bring a pop of colour to the mixer. It’s not the quietest model and we noticed that the tilt head jolted a little when mixing the dough, but otherwise it’s reasonably priced and brilliant at everyday baking tasks.
Like the KitchenAid above, this Cuisinart model is only available in black and white. This wholly uncomplicated machine is simple and intuitive to put together. The attachments are reassuringly weighty and very well built.
This model did a brilliant job on our cake making and whisking tests but the low wattage meant that it struggled somewhat when kneading bread dough. We found the low speed settings a welcome addition, particularly when starting to mix doughs – the speeds are gentle and controlled.
Simple to use, well designed and budget-friendly, the Cuisinart Precision stand mixer is a high-quality, affordable option.
This is Smeg’s most up-to-date stand mixer. It comes in an attractive array of colours suitable for both muted and maximalist kitchens. Included with this model are all the attachments you’ll need to get started, as well as an unusual anchor-shaped scraper beater attachment.
This model performed well on the cake-making test, though the scraper beater didn’t work as we expected, so we opted for the traditional beater paddle instead, which worked considerably better. We found the SMF03 lacked oomph and as a result our meringue and dough tests took a long time to complete. Best suited for the design-conscious cake baker.
The stand mixers featured in this review were tested in controlled conditions using a standardised testing criteria. We picked three classic olive recipes to test three key stand mixer tasks and their attachments. To put the beater to the test, we made olive’s easy chocolate cake recipe. For the dough hook, we made cardamom custard buns (skolebrød) and to test the balloon whisk, we whipped up a basic pavlova. All stand mixers were scored against the following criteria:
Performance: the texture of the cake, bread and meringue were assessed before and after baking. We looked for fully incorporated ingredients, consistent bakes and bakes that were light, open and airy in texture.
Ease of use: all models were scored for the ease and intuitiveness of their assembly. We looked for smooth controls and gentle acceleration – no aggressive jolting! Everything from the ease of fitting the attachments, heft of the tilt head and any features that added to the user experience, were assessed.
Value for money: the models on this list range in price massively, so performance, versatility and included features were all considered. These appliances are a costly investment for some, so the price must be right.
Quality of materials: stand mixers should be built to last, and that goes for their attachments, too. We looked for well built, sturdy engineering.
Design and aesthetic: with many of the models on this list weighing in at around 10kg, you really don’t want to be moving your stand mixer every time you want to use it. We looked for attractive mixers with a high-quality finish. Being available in a range of colours or the option for customisable elements scored mixers extra points.
Sustainability: Polystyrene packaging and plastic bags are a big no in our eyes. We look out for recyclable packaging, long warranties and
To find out more about how testing appliances is done at olive, head over to our how we test page.
What can a stand mixer be used for?
The original stand mixers were designed simply to assist as egg beaters. But through constant innovation and various redesigns most modern stand mixers now come with three attachments for beating, whisking and kneading. There are countless sweet and savoury dishes to create using any of these attachments.
Use the beater to make cakes, pastry, cookies, and icing – it can even be used to mash potatoes. The balloon whisk is ideal for aerating egg whites for meringue, whipping cream and making whisked sponges such as genoise. The dough hook can be used for all manner of bread doughs – it tackles high hydration pizza dough, classic bread doughs, enriched doughs and pasta, plus much more.
Many stand mixer brands also offer a range of additional attachments to ensure you get the most out of your mixer. These can include food processor attachments, pasta and cookie presses, sausage stuffers, vegetable cutters and more.
What to look out for when choosing a stand mixer
Design: both aesthetics and the added design features of a stand mixer should factor into your decision making. If you’re planning on keeping your stand mixer on the kitchen counter, mixers that are available in a range of colours are a great opportunity to either add a pop of colour to your space or to tie it all together.
Size: stand mixers range in size from mini models to hulking XL machines. Consider the space you have in the kitchen, not forgetting the height. Don’t forget, there will need to be a good amount of clearance space above the mixer for when the tilt head is fully extended.
Capacity: familiarise yourself with the bowl capacity of the mixer you’re interested in – 3-4 litres is great for smaller bakes, 4-6 litres is the most common size, making it great for all bakes, whilst 6 litres+ is ideal for large bakes and batch cooking. Some stand mixers come with two bowl sizes, which is also useful.
Weight: stand mixers need to be a little weighty to ensure they stay anchored to the worksurface when kneading heavy doughs or mixing at full speed. If you’re unable to keep your stand mixer on the kitchen counter, consider getting a lighter model but don’t go so light that it is a flimsy construction.
Versatility: most stand mixers come with attachments for beating, whisking and kneading as standard. But many brands offer additional attachments for a variety of tasks, such as pasta making, sausage making, ice cream making and much more. If you’re looking to make the most of your new stand mixer, the option for additional bits of kit is a big plus. Some stand mixers have additional in-built features, too: do you need in-built scales, a timer or even bowl-warming technologies?
Price: consider how much money you have to spend on a new stand mixer. They can range in price from around £200 up to £800. Weigh up the additions to work out whether they’re worth it for you, for the price.
Top tip: if your stand mixer doesn’t come with a storage bag for the attachments, line the bowl with a clean tea towel and store the attachments inside. This keeps all the attachments together and the tea towel stops them from scratching the bowl.
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Anya Gilbert<![CDATA[The best coffee machines for a barista-like experience at home]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1414462024-01-09T13:08:37Z2024-01-09T13:08:37Z
For those partial to a cup of coffee, the aroma of freshly brewed espresso is a satisfying way to start the day, or keep you going all day long. A home coffee machine is one way to not only save money on expensive coffee shop prices, but also the unnecessary wastage of reusable cups.
Coffee machines allow you to brew professional-style espresso topped with silky crema at home; the staple which forms the basis of most coffee shop classics.
Whether you want fully-automated convenience and coffee at the touch of a button, or the gratifying connection to your cup of coffee that comes with a hands-on machine, there are lots of coffee machines to choose from. Prices of coffee machines vary from £25 to £2,000, and can be compact models or showstopper features of your countertop. There’s no point in paying for sophisticated personalisation features if all you’re after is a delicious americano, or dedicating half your surface to a machine that won’t get used.
So, with this in mind, we’ve rounded up our tried and tested favourite coffee machines to help you make great coffee at home.
Best bean-to-cup machine for contemporary style: Smeg BCC02 bean-to-cup coffee machine, £699.95
Types of coffee machines
The type of machine you buy will depend on the type of coffee you drink, priorities, budget, space available and level of personalisation desired. The more you pay, the greater the personalisation options you’ll likely have.
Espresso machines: The closest you’ll get to machines in a coffee house. These use ground coffee and have portafilters that you lock in place. You’ll likely need to tamper and tap out the grounds yourself with these machines which adds a satisfying hands-on experience. Providing its the right grind level, you can also switch up the coffee you use. Manual pump espresso machines are the most experiential of all, harnessing your own strength to apply enough pressure to produce espresso, rather than being plugged into the mains.
Coffee pod machines: These accommodate pre-prepared coffee pods which provide a mess-free espresso. The machines themselves are relatively affordable, starting around £30, but the pods themselves can be expensive and difficult to recycle, unless you buy eco-friendly pods.
Bean-to-cup coffee machines: These coffee machines are fully-automated. They grind freshly roasted whole beans and the grinding, dosing and tamping are all done at the touch of a button. You can usually make two drinks at a time, they often have sophisticated customisation settings available and you can save your drink preferences. Some even have apps and WIFI connectivity which means you can set the machine to make your coffee while you’re still lying in bed.
Filter coffee machines: These machines are a different beast, not requiring any power and generally taking longer than espresso machines. Comprising just a filter, coffee and hot water, the brewed coffee drips into a jug.
If you’re looking for an espresso machine that carries legacy as much as style, Gaggia’s Classic effortlessly denotes quality and expertise. Made in Italy, its trio of rocker switches and steel outer case hide the trappings of a state-of-the-art machine for home use, including a solenoid valve for controlling water temperature. All the accessories are also professional grade.
Unmistakably SMEG in its design, this espresso machine is deceptively simple. Behind its trio of buttons lies the option to tailor everything from coffee quantity and automatic shut-off timings to the water temperature. Its milk steamer wand is also incredibly efficient. Read our full SMEG ECF01 espresso machine review.
De’Longhi is responsible for making some modern-day classics of the coffee machine world and its Dedica is quietly confident, packing 15-bars of brew pressure into the diminutive 14cm x 33cm footprint. At just under £200, it’s excellent value for money for the quality of espresso generated, if not a little unstable for warming your espresso cups. Read our full De’Longhi Dedica EC685.M espresso machine review.
Released in 2022, the Morning coffee pod machine is one of the first of its kind equipped with the precision controls needed to get the best from a host of coffee varieties and roasts. It brings intricate features from professional espresso machines into the capsule style, measuring the extracted coffee in grams rather than ml, allowing for adjustable water temperature, bar pressure and coffee quantities. Ten pre-set coffee functions are on offer including a drip function for iced coffee, selectable using its touchscreen frontage and spinning outer rim. It’s also Bluetooth and WiFi compatible.
This model oozes industrial elegance, offering a remarkably hands-on experience for a coffee pod machine. Its small boxy design has a diminutive presence on the countertop and yet, it still steals attention, protected by a stainless steel outer. Its cup warmer is practical, the drip tray manually adjustable thanks to a series of notches and, once the coffee cap is locked in by the lowering of its handle, it produces rich, crema-topped espresso.
This machine is very easy to use, with three buttons at the head of the machine for a short, normal or lungo espresso. It’s sleek and modern in design which would fit well in a minimal or monochrome kitchen. We tested the machine using regular Nespresso pods, for which it’s compatible, as well as with speciality coffee pods. This is where it really shines, and the espresso from the Gesha pods from Colonna Coffee which we tried had a notably thick crema and nicely balanced acidity.
Many bean-to-cup coffee machines have the capability to make iced drinks, but this model from De’Longhi stands out from the crowd with its specially designed cold brew technology. We used it to make a cold brew cappuccino which was nicely balanced between the creamy texture and strong flavour, perfectly refreshing on a warm day. Despite its large footprint, the machine looks sleek, with an easy-to-use touch screen that walks you through the process of making your drink.
Not only does Smeg’s new bean-to-cup coffee machine carry the rounded lines, matte colour shades and statement style that’s synonymous with its iconic 1950s designs, it’s also the smallest of all the bean-to-cup coffee machines tested. The compact footprint makes it a convenient choice for homes with limited countertop space, but it should be a top choice for anyone looking for a bean-to-cup for a few reasons. The controls consist of four buttons from which eight functions are selectable. The single espresso is dark, packed with flavour and aroma, and topped with a swirling crema. Its milk steam wand is also efficient. Read our full Smeg BCC02 bean-to-cup coffee machine review.
This machine earned its five-star credentials partially due to its versatility. It boasts the ability to make 32 drinks, which are further customisable through elements like strength and brew time. While it might have as many choices as your local coffee shop, you don’t need barista-level skills to make an excellent coffee with this machine. It does the basics well, producing a nicely-balanced espresso with thick crema, but the iced cappuccino was what really impressed on test as it was packed with flavour with a refreshing creaminess.
There are specific features to consider before you buy your coffee machine.
Milk steam wand
If you like milky coffee drinks like lattes and cappuccinos, a milk steaming wand should be on your list of features to look for. Some higher-value machines include a stainless steel milk jug specifically for this, but if not, we’d recommend investing in one.
Single cup and double cup functionality
It can be convenient to be able to make two cups of coffee at the same time, particularly in busy households.
Single and double espresso filter baskets
Ground coffee espresso makers should offer single and double espresso filter baskets for swapping into the portafilter.
Coffee grind personalisation
Customisation over how fine coffee can be ground is an excellent way to tailor your coffee to your own tastes. For example, fine-ground coffee is perfect for espresso.
Cold brewing capabilities
A cold brew or iced coffee can make a refreshing alternative in warmer months. We’re now seeing more automatic coffee machines offer cold brewing technology to cater to cold brew lovers.
Adjustable drip trays
This will enable the machine to accommodate your favourite mug, however broad or tall it is.
Water hardness adjustability
This is a sophisticated feature that the best coffee machines should all have, as water hardness can affect the taste of the espresso. Areas of hard water are also more prone to the build-up of limescale so machines may need more maintenance.
Self-clean functions
These can be anything from a self-purge cycle to simply an automatic steam wand clean after every use. Combined with the habitual efforts of wiping the steam wand after every use, you will prolong the life of your espresso machine.
How we tested coffee machines
This all depends on the type of coffee machine, but at the centre of our tests was the following core criteria:
Performance: The flavour, aroma and temperature of the coffee needed to be enjoyable, so every coffee and espresso function was tested to assess this. Bitterness, acidity or weakness were scored down.
Value for money: Its performance and versatility play into this one. These appliances may be one of the largest investments you make for your kitchen, so the price must feel right.
Ease of use: All were scored from unboxing, so they needed to be simple to unpack with easy-to-follow instructions. When the variety of settings is so broad, intuitive controls make the experience fun. Everything from milk-wand range of motion to adjustable drip trays and access for refilling the water tank and bean hoppers were considered here.
Convenience: is one of the biggest selling points for buying a bean-to-cup espresso machine so any fussing around with parts affected scoring.
Quantity of materials: Flimsy build-materials don’t warrant a high price tag and make things difficult to clean. They also affect the longevity of an appliance’s life.
Design and aesthetic for keeping on the countertop: Bean-to-cup machines are generally very deep and broad, so a good design plays into this.
The average scores out of five decided each product’s overall star rating. The additional criteria also played into our decision-making.
There is no more delicious end to a meal than simply walking upstairs to bed – no taxis, trains or a long drive home required. If you want to fall asleep cocooned in luxury before waking up to a stellar breakfast the next morning, read on to discover our round-up some of the UK’s most desirable restaurants with rooms. Book in, tuck in and chill out.
Best UK restaurants with rooms
The Cornish Arms, St Merryn, Cornwall
Rick Stein’s polished rural gastropub has everything you need: St Austell Brewery ales (try the Proper Job), roaring fires, wood-fired pizza in the garden in summer and cracking Sunday roasts year round. After enjoying pub classics such as sausage and mash, or ham, egg and chips, guests can toddle off to the pub’s wooden shepherd’s huts (ensuite with kitchenettes) to luxuriate in underfloor heating and Porthdune skincare products. rickstein.com
Holm, South Petherton, Somerset
With its raw plaster walls, Scandi design and plates of torched mackerel, turnip and buttermilk, or baked celeriac, truffle and hazelnut, Holm brings big city cool to rural Somerset. Just as the kitchen relies on A1 West Country produce (Alford Farm pork, Exmoor venison), its seven handsome bedrooms have been dressed with furniture, bespoke oak headboards and art from local artist-makers and vintage specialists. holmsomerset.co.uk
La Fosse, Cranborne, Dorset
Work up an appetite walking in the New Forest or Jurassic Coast before retiring to this intimate restaurant with rooms. Chef Mark Hartstone’s cooking deploys prime local produce (including his own allotment harvests) in beautiful plates of, say, hake, lobster and shellfish broth, samphire and champ, or duck, caramelised salsify, artichoke, cherry gravy and greens. La Fosse’s bedrooms, named after Dorset cheeses, smoothly blend modern design with the building’s period charm. la-fosse.com
The Crown @ Wild Thyme & Honey, near Cirencester, Gloucestershire
This Cotswolds pub with rooms is a special find. Sat by a gurgling brook in tiny, idyllic Ampney Crucis, its 24 bedrooms – think natural materials, muted palettes, handsome fabrics – offer serious contemporary chic. The Crown pub, is a cosy nook you’ll happily sink into after a country walk. The kitchen gives classics such as the prawn cocktail or cheddar soufflé a 21st-century makeover, and there are mains to warm the soul, such as braised venison cottage pie or pork belly with potato terrine, smoked pumpkin purée, black pudding crumb and madeira chicken jus. crownampneybrook.co.uk
Smoke, Hampton Manor, Warwickshire
As well as its 15 gorgeous manor house bedrooms (one of three places to stay on site), this 45-acre estate includes a walled kitchen garden, around which you’ll find an artisan bakery, Michelin-starred Grace & Savour and chef Stuart Deeley’s hip, laid-back Smoke. Dishes of Megrim sole with brown shrimps and seaweed butter sauce, or a sharing Hereford côte de boeuf with béarnaise sauce, demonstrate the kitchen’s live-fire cooking skills. hamptonmanor.com
The Corner House, Canterbury, Kent
Smart, crisp and comfortable, chef Matt Sworder’s Corner House is easy to love. Fine regional produce is skilfully deployed across a broadly modern British menu of dishes like venison and mushroom suet pudding with mash, kale and red wine jus, or sharing lamb shoulder, dauphinoise potatoes and seasonal vegetables. Five characterful, individually designed bedrooms seal the deal. The romantic attic room includes a freestanding bath, too. cornerhouserestaurants.co.uk
The White Horse, Graffham, West Sussex
Nestled in the South Downs National Park, the Horse has six smart, comfortable bedrooms in its grounds. Leading the kitchen is chef Grant Jones, who honed his skills at Le Gavroche. Excellent Sussex produce underpins daily changing menus, which might include dishes such as roasted guinea fowl, sprout tops, potatoes and wild mushrooms, or lamb rack with braised hunter’s pie and squash purée. whitehorsegraffham.com
The Buxton, London
Part of the sustainably focussed Culpeper Family Hospitality Group, this Brick Lane pub includes 15 funky, modish rooms, decorated with east London art and fabrics by local weavers. Guests can enjoy the rooftop kitchen garden and, in the pub, on-point sharing plates of cheese croquettes with black garlic or duck breast and chanterelles. thebuxton.co.uk
The Cartford Inn, Little Eccleston, Lancashire
This buzzy, fashionably styled pub by the River Wyre has two upscale log cabins and 12 incredible bedrooms available for overnighters, plus its own deli and homewares store. Chef Chris Bury’s menus include occasional French flourishes, but generally tack between accomplished pub tuck (say, braised oxtail and beef suet pudding) and on-trend dishes such as beef short rib, artichoke purée and beer-braised Roscoff onion. thecartfordinn.co.uk
The Dipping Lugger, Ullapool, Wester Ross
Three luxurious bedrooms (with freestanding baths, striking Morris & Co wallpapers), command views across Loch Broom. In the 18-cover restaurant, chef David Smith creates ambitious tasting menus from Scotland’s abundant larder. Dishes might include beef fillet, beetroot and horseradish, or gin-cured halibut with caviar, baby cauliflower and fennel crackerbread. thedippinglugger.co.uk
The Boot, Barnsley, Gloucestershire
Operated by the hospitality wing of a furniture and interior design business, The Boot, which has six bedrooms, is a natty space full of interesting art and antiques. Chef John Jewell uses high-quality regional produce, including vegetables from neighbouring Barnsley House, to create elevated pub classics and dishes such as his Montgomery cheddar soufflé or Bathurst Estate venison, potato gratin, red cabbage and mushroom sauce. Suitably, given the Boot’s 17th-century origins, beer is served in bespoke pewter tankards. thebootbarnsley.co.uk
Meadowsweet, Holt, Norfolk
This Grade II listed Georgian property is a tastefully contemporary space, with three swish bedrooms sitting above its Michelin-starred restaurant. Like those rooms, chef Greg Anderson’s dishes of wild turbot and vin jaune or truffle-stuffed guinea fowl, are all elegantly modern. meadowsweetholt.com
Jöro, Sheffield
Close to Krynkl – the shipping container development where Jöro serves its creative dishes of scallop, grilled cucumber, mint and tiger’s milk, or halibut, sauce vin jaune, walnuts and mussels escabeche – the restaurant also operates House of Jöro, a boutique four-bedroom property. Guests can stay B&B, fold in a meal at Jöro or, for the ultimate in private dining, take over the whole house and enjoy an eight-course tasting menu cooked by chef-director Luke French. Note: in spring, Jöro will move to Oughtibridge Mill on Sheffield’s outskirts, opening seven bedrooms on-site. House of Jöro will continue to accommodate guests, with sister brand, Konjö, moving into Krynkl. jororestaurant.co.uk
Arms Cottage @ The Bridge Arms, Bridge, Kent
Chefs Dan and Natasha Smith run two Michelin-starred pubs, the Fordwich Arms and the charcoal-grilling-focussed Bridge. Neighbouring the Bridge, they also have a 15th-century cottage available for stays. Relax there before enjoying immaculate grilled scallops with smoked butter sauce, a sharing Hereford beef rib or whole Dover sole. bridgearms.co.uk
The Suffolk, Aldeburgh, Suffolk
Be it colour palettes and decorative touches inspired by the Suffolk countryside or a guest pantry where you can pour yourself a complimentary cocktail, every detail of this six-bedroom property has been carefully considered. Enjoy the rooftop sea-view terrace, then head down to Sur-Mer restaurant, where chef Tom Payne makes impressive use of Suffolk produce, such as Gressingham duck or Dingley Dell pork. From Butley Creek oysters to lemon sole in Pernod garlic butter, seafood is prominent. the-suffolk.co.uk
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Helen Salter<![CDATA[Best milk frothers to buy]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1429782024-01-09T11:30:12Z2024-01-09T11:30:12Z
It’s time to take your hot drinks to the next level with a milk frother. Whether you’re a cappuccino aficionado, hot chocolate fan or simply want to liven up your instant coffee, milk frothers will give your classic brew a creamy barista-style boost.
While some coffee machines will come with built-in milk frothers, most will require you froth your milk separately. Many independent milk frother will also have a wider range of setting for different textures of microfoam or for hot or cold frothed milk, which isn’t usually available for those built into coffee machines.
Having a milk frother will also allow you further versatility from manual espresso brewing methods like moka pots and cafetieres.
Read on for our favourite milk frothers for coffee and hot chocolate, tried and tested by our reviews experts.
This milk frother feels high-quality as soon as you take it out of the box and has a sleek, elegant look. On test we found it super easy to use — simply insert the relevant attachment depending on your milk frothing preferences, add your milk of choice and press the button. It’s also one of the larger frothers we tested with the capability to make up to 340ml of frothed milk at a time.
We liked that this machine come with a choice of three attachments – a whisk for making cappuccinos and milkshakes, a basket for making hot chocolates and a cap for making flat whites. Easy to assemble and change over, these accessories make this milk frother a versatile piece of kit.
Using semi-skimmed milk, we were impressed by the thick, glossy head on the milk we made using the flat white cap. One slight downside is that the lack of pouring spout meant some of our precious foam was left behind in the jug and we needed a spoon to remove it.
The frother is exceptionally quiet, but the thing that impressed us the most on test was the hot chocolate. Using the whisk and basket attachments we made hot chocolate using oat milk and the recommended 25g of flaked chocolate powder. This produced a rich, creamy drink that was pleasingly hot without any danger of burning our mouths. This reasonably priced product would be a welcome kitchen edition for coffee-lovers and chocoholics alike.
Lavazza’s ‘MilkEasy’ name certainly aligns with the results of this milk frother. This was the easiest electric frother we tried thanks to its simple, easy to follow instructions: fill with milk up to one of the markings (you can heat up to 180ml or froth 120ml), press the button once for hot froth, twice for hot milk or thrice for cold froth for iced coffees or lattes.
We were pleasantly surprised by how quiet and efficient it is, producing that perfect just-below boiling temperature. Using semi-skimmed milk offers an impressively thick, fluffy whip that’s enough for two cups; this is definitely one of the thickest froths, resembling a creamy dalgona coffee. The froth produced using oat milk is not as thick by quite some margin – it’s airier, with lots of thin liquid. Another thing to note is that due to the frothers wide design, it’s not the easiest product to pick up and pour into your mug.
The inside is easy enough to clean, though you cannot get the base wet, so it’s not dishwasher-safe. It’s small enough to keep on the work surface, but compact enough to slot into a cupboard. Overall, if you like to experiment with different methods, this is the most reasonably priced product, offering barista-style whipped milk that’s ready in minutes.
Best top-of-the-range electric frother for hot chocolates
Star rating: 4.5/5
If you’re looking to invest in a sleek electric milk frother to complement your kitchen, Smeg is the answer. This model is made from stainless steel, with a separate dishwasher-safe jug that has visible measurement markings embossed on the inside. This frother had the largest volume of all we tested: a 600ml heating capacity and 250ml frothing capacity. The on/off button is clear to see and there are six settings to choose from: hot or cold milk with light or thick foam, hot milk and chocolate, plus a manual function.
This frother is the only one with the option to make coffee or hot chocolate, taking away the fuss of making the drink separately beforehand. It’s louder in use than the other electric frothers, but the transparent lid means you can watch while the whisks work their magic. This produced the smoothest hot chocolate of all the frothers, with a silky, velvety texture and just-below boiling temperature. It also works a treat with non-dairy milks.
It’s very easy to clean as there’s only the detachable jug to wash. Its retro 1950s design will look good in any kitchen (plus there’s a range of pastel colours to suit different tastes). It does however command some space on the counter – it’s a high-quality piece of equipment you wouldn’t want to hide in a cupboard. This means that if you’re not too going to be using daily, it may be too expensive to use as an occasional piece of equipment – we’d recommend going for something cheaper if this is the case.
Nespresso’s Aeroccino 4 is the new and improved version of its earlier models, featuring a convenient black handle and elegant pouring outlet. With the options for hot foam, hot milk and cold foam, this product offers you choice. The instructions are simple: pour in the milk to the ‘max foam’ marking, select the desired button and wait approximately 80 seconds for your milk to froth.
This product is the obvious winner if using oat milk, producing an ultra-creamy and fluffy foam that’s soothing to sip on its own. The semi-skimmed version is surprisingly not as frothy, but still offers that hot, thick foam that’s perfect for topping your coffee or hot chocolate.
Except for the base, the Aeroccino 4 is dishwasher-safe to ease cleaning. The design is compact (making storage easy), though its glossy, modern look makes a smart addition to any kitchen space. If you’re into your whipped milk but don’t want to spend too much, then this hits the sweet spot: it’s convenient, versatile and offers barista-style whipped milk in just over a minute.
Similar to the Lavazza, this electric frother has a one-touch triple function: heated milk, frothed hot milk or cold froth. In use, we’re surprised by how quiet and quick it is, with milk turning frothy in 70 seconds.
Although you can’t add chocolate flakes or coffee granules to the machine, it makes two cups of thick, creamy milk topping. The manual recommends using milk with a higher protein level, such as semi-skimmed, rather than full fat. The oat milk hardly froths at all, so we’d recommend a different frother if you’re hoping to use plant-based milks. It delivers a warm temperature of milk (60C), which may not be hot enough for those planning on making ready to drink hot chocolates and coffees.
The handle is a simple but valuable feature, and it’s easy to move in and out of storage, though compact and stylish enough to leave on the work surface. Versatile, quick and easy to operate, this is a failsafe frother with a reasonable price tag to match.
Melitta’s Cremio frother gives you the option to make hot froth, hot milk and cold froth, perfect for creamy coffees, blended hot chocolates or desserts. This machine works with all types of milk, but we found using skimmed milk worked best, creating a thick, whipped froth which you can dollop onto your drink of choice.
The ergonomic handle is a defining feature, as is the non-stick coating for efficient cleaning (the lid and whisk is dishwasher-safe, too). The capacity for frothed milk is 100-150 ml, which is ample for two drinks. It’s also worth noting that you can prepare warm cocoa with this frother – simply add the chocolate powder to the milk before pressing the hot milk button.
This product is similar in range and aesthetic to the Dualit, with the bonus feature of preparing hot chocolate. All in all, the ergonomic handle, non-stick surfaces and clean brushed-steel aesthetics make this stylish container a sturdy and reliable kitchen accessory which you’ll be happy to invest in.
The ROK milk frother is a small, manual pump-action hand frother sporting a compact cylinder design. The frother arrives in a small cardboard tube with little to no instructions; it’s pretty self-explanatory to use, but we refer to the website for guidance and tips.
This nifty frother is very easy to operate: first, heat the milk in a cup or jug (we use a microwave to do this). Once the milk is heated, lower the frother in (allowing trapped air to escape) and let the whisking disks go to work. As you manually pump the disks, they engage the milk to create fine bubbles. It’s completely up to you to control the amount and density of foam (we try various techniques: fast, slow, short and long). It’s also splatter-free, as all the action happens inside the cylinder, saving on extra cleaning. Both the semi-skimmed milk and oat milk create a light foam with bubbly sensation. Though it’s easier to clean than some of the heavier electric frothers, it’s not the easiest as the cylinder and disk are joined together.
We particularly like this for its transportability – if you’re after an inexpensive frother that you can pop in your bag, this is the best option. It’s also fun to do it yourself. For a hands-on approach, a manual frother lets you get fully involved in the process so you can achieve the desired consistency.
At first sight, you may mistake the Bodum for a large cafetière. But, as you look closer, you’ll realise it’s a high-quality glass carafe with a sleek handle that’s perfect for do-it-yourself manual frothing.
A very simple instruction guide is on the packaging and also in the manual, so we find this one of the easiest to use: first, fill with milk up to the line on the jug and warm in the microwave for 30-50 seconds. Once hot, use the manual pump to froth the milk until the volume doubles. The whipped milk is then ready to spoon into your drink of choice (it’s worth noting that this frother doesn’t come with the option to make coffee or hot chocolate). We do notice a tiny amount of spillage coming out of the top hole and pouring outlet even when sealed. The foam itself is surprisingly smooth on its own, but lighter and airier than other frothers, which produce a thicker whip.
It’s dishwasher-safe and easy to clean, the same as you would a cafetière. Plus, the small footprint makes it perfect for a kitchen with little bench space or low-hanging cupboards. Overall, if you’re after a quick and easy to follow model that offers plenty of froth with minimal effort, this is a brilliant value option.
The milk frothers featured in this review were the best performing appliances chosen from a longlist of more than 20 products. All were tested in control conditions using a standardised criterion with semi-skimmed milk, Oatly Oat Drink Barista Edition and Hotel Chocolat hot chocolate flakes and scored out of five against the following areas:
Quality of milk foam
Value for money
Ease of use
Quality of materials
Design and aesthetic for keeping on the countertop
The average score out of 5 decided the overall star rating. The additional criteria played into our decision making:
If you have any questions, suggestions for future reviews or spot anything that has changed in price or availability, please get in touch at oliveweb@immediate.co.uk.
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Anya Gilbert<![CDATA[Best bean-to-cup coffee machines to buy 2024]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1407802024-01-08T16:41:01Z2024-01-08T16:41:01Z
They take the effort-factor away, offering automation at every stage from the grinding of whole beans to dosing, tamping and brewing. A broad range of settings to tailor your coffee are usually on offer. Some can even be connected to wirelessly and controlled via smart home devices or a smartphone app, so you don’t even have to be in the kitchen to set a cup to brew.
The technology behind this type of offering means these machines are usually large and pricey. But don’t be intimidated. We’ve broken down the differences between bean-to-cup machines vs espresso machines. We walk you through what to look for and share our tried-and-tested top picks of the best bean-to-cup coffee machines below.
Best for contemporary style: Smeg BCC02 bean-to-cup coffee machine, £699.95
Best mid-range bean-to-cup coffee machine: De’longhi La Specialista Maestro bean-to-cup coffee machine £999.99
Best bean-to-cup espresso machine: Sage Oracle Touch espresso machine £1,799.95
Best affordable bean-to-cup espresso machine: Breville Barista Max, £299
Best large capacity bean-to-cup coffee machine: Gaggia Cadorna Plus, £597.45
Best for adjustable aroma intensity: Gaggia Magenta Plus, £589
What’s the difference between bean-to-cup coffee machines and espresso machines?
Traditional semi-automatic espresso machines encourage the building of basic barista skills and require a more hands-on approach to loading portafilters and using pre-ground coffee.
In contrast, the best bean-to-cup coffee machines are fully automated, freshly grinding whole beans to bring you a cup of coffee at the touch of a button, with opportunities to personalise elements of the drink. The outlay cost with a bean-to-cup machine will be higher but balanced by the time and effort saved to achieve a reliable cup every time.
There are some bean-to-cup models which allow for high levels of versatility and customisation. Many will let you choose your grind size, temperature and more, and we’ve seen a trend in models which allow you to save you preferences, so you can have your coffee exactly as you like it but at the touch of a button.
How to choose the best bean-to-cup espresso machine
Within the bean-to-cup world there are a couple of machine types, but all share the fundamental element of having a bean compartment and grinder.
Top tip: store your coffee beans in an airtight container and only top up the hopper with what you need. This will keep the beans’ flavour fresher and give you better flexibility over switching up the beans.
Bean-to-cup espresso machines: these focus on producing espresso; short shots of intense coffee brewed under pressure. This forms the fundamental element to many coffee house classics.
Bean-to-cup coffee machines: in addition to making espresso, these could include filter systems for making drip coffee and can come with glass carafes, measuring coffee in cups rather than single and double espressos.
Manual bean-to-cup: this type combines automation with a hands-on experience, leaving the fun bits for you to do. For example, loading and locking the portafilter and frothing the milk.
Automatic bean-to-cup: quite simply, once you’ve selected the drink you want, the machine does the rest.
While many bean-to-cup machines have options for iced drinks, this De’Longhi machine stands out from the crowd with its Cold Brew technology. On test, our cold brew cappuccinos were creamy with a strong flavour, and perfectly refreshing on a hot day. The digital display is sleek and communicates each step, like reminding you to add ice cubes before brewing, which makes this machine a breeze to use.
The Eletta Explore isn’t just for iced coffee, though — the accomplished machine also produced a rich, dark espresso with silky crema and just the right level of acidity. There are settings to adjust the temperature and grind depending on your preference, and if you live in a large household you can set name profiles for each regular user of the machine with their favourites.
With a large footprint this will be best suited to kitchens with abundant countertop space. We were slightly disappointed by the packaging, which was largely unrecyclable plastic, but the machine does come with advice on how to clean and prolong the life of the machine which improved it’s sustainability credentials. Read our full De’Longhi Eletta Explore bean-to-cup coffee machine review.
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With 32 drink specialities the Jura Z10 is versatile enough to suit your every coffee mood, plus you can adjust the brew time and strength of your drink depending on your preference. The machine may have more options than your local coffee shop, but you don’t need a barista’s skill set to make the most of it. When making a cappuccino you simply need to fill the jug with your milk of choice, put in the steam wand and select how long you want to froth the milk for — then it does all the hard work for you.
Enjoy a refreshing coffee in the summer months? This machine has a cold brew element that sets it apart from many bean-to-cup coffee machines. It produced an iced cappuccino which was creamy and packed with flavour. It does the basics well too, making a classic espresso which was dark in colour with well-balanced acidity and a thick crema. Read the full Jura Z10 coffee machine review.
Known for its large white goods and statement kitchen staples, Smeg has a strong reputation for making efficient and stylish appliances, like its ECF01 espresso machine. The brand’s first-ever bean-to-cup coffee machine doesn’t deviate from this, carrying the same iconic design and curved lines without dominating kitchen space.
It’s the smallest bean-to-cup on test, simply offering four control buttons and eight selectable functions, a steam wand rather than an internal milk tank, and a dial for adjusting the grind level from its coffee bean store. The steam wand angles outwards for use in mugs, cups or glass jugs. The coffee produced is packed with flavour. We want one in our own kitchens. Read our full Smeg BCC02 bean-to-cup coffee machine review.
This De’Longhi is incredibly suave, designed with elegance and in mind of counter-top storage. It packs 19-bars of pressure into its stainless steel outer.
The coffee grinding is all done automatically depending on the filter basket you load and it also offers ‘smart tamping’ to help you achieve even compression of the grounds. A real stand-out was its pre-infusion capabilities, which varies depending on the coffee function selected and density of its coffee dose. The result was a short and darkly moreish coffee shot adorned with flavourful crema. Read our full De’Longhi La Specialista Maestro review.
This Sage is a premium example of a manual bean-to-cup coffee machine which combines automated pre-sets with sophisticated personalisation features. There are 11 total pre-sets on offer, plus the option to save your own tailored coffee presets for ease. Depending on the filter basket you’ve loaded, this machine automatically grinds and doses the coffee.
The grind and dose of coffee are adjustable per drink, as is milk froth temperature and level. A stainless steel jug is provided for this. Whilst it is an investment price, this machine fulfils the fundamental requirements of producing a great cup every time, whilst giving you room to personalise the coffee. Read our full Sage Oracle Touch espresso machine review.
The price-point of this Breville means it sits at the more affordable end of the spectrum when it comes to bean-to-cup espresso machines. It’s also one of the most compact, requiring little set up beyond the attachment of its bean hopper.
Most of the trimmings of a professional barista espresso machine accompany it, with a stainless steel milk jug included, along with a multitude of cleaning tools. The effective milk steaming wand is easy to use. All in all, it’s excellent value for money. Read our full Breville Barista Max review.
Made in Italy, the Gaggia Cadorna Plus is a step up from the Magenta model featured below, in both size and functionality. It’s unmistakably Gaggia, carrying the red lines and chrome highlights that define the brand’s statement look while offering a large 1.5L water tank that’s loaded from the front and a wide screen interface with tactile buttons for selecting its six preset coffees.
Its internal ceramic burr grinders were surprisingly quiet during use. The milk steaming wand is a manual, stainless steel Pannarello design that dispenses hot water for teas or long coffees in addition to steam for frothing and heating milk. The option to adjust the aroma intensity of the espresso and create a tailored coffee-based drink is an interesting function not often seen on bean-to-cup machines, and refers to the quantity of ground coffee per cup – great for espresso aficionados but something that also felt a bit unnecessary.
Best bean-to-cup machine for adjustable aroma intensity
Score: 4/5 stars
The Gaggia Magenta is an elegant, statement machine complete with a professional milk steamer wand and 250g bean hopper capacity. Within its espresso function, the coffee temperature, quantity and grind-sizes were all adjustable.
The two-cup setting split the espresso slightly unevenly between the two cups but quality-wise, the espresso is richly flavourful and topped with silky crema. There’s a professional-grade milk steam wand with a 45-degree range of movement. It also arrives with a 500g bag of Gaggia Intenso coffee beans which is a nice touch to get you started. Read our full Gaggia Magenta Plus review.
What to look for from a bean-to-cup coffee machine
Adjustable grind level: the grind size of coffee affects the coffee’s flavour and intensity, so can be changed to best suit the type you like best. For example, espressos fare best with finely ground coffee, whereas filter coffee requires a medium-coarse grind.
Duo-drip trays: this not only means that cups and mugs of different sizes can be accommodated, but that traditional espresso cups are supported to catch the liquid without splashes; therefore protecting the important crema layer.
Milk frother: not all bean-to-cup coffee machines offer an integrated milk frother system, so if you like milky coffee classics best, look out for automatic frother systems or a milk steamer wand. If you want to get a separate one, we’ve tried and tested the best milk frothers here.
Ground coffee option: if you run out of whole beans but have a bag of ground coffee to hand, having ground-coffee adaptability comes in very handy.
Efficient grinders: whether ceramic or burr, bean grinders should be quick and efficient, so even when they’re loud, the noise is short-lived. Looking for a separate grinder to get the best results for your beans? Try our tried and tested coffee grinders.
Intuitive interface: when there are so many elements of an espresso to adjust, simple functions and settings should be easy to navigate and keep experimenting fun.
Programmable drink options: once you’ve found the perfect combination of grind-size, brew temperature and aroma intensity for your taste, it’s great to be able to save presets so your favourite coffee can be returned to easily.
Dual bean compartments: some machines offer containers for different bean intensities to be kept. Usually it’s for dark and light roast beans, but if you’ve a family member who only drinks decaf, one space can be utilised for those.
How we tested bean-to-cup coffee machines
All the bean-to-cup coffee machines featured in this review were the best performing appliances from a longlist of 10. All were tested in controlled conditions using whole roasted Columbian coffee beans, and scored out of five against standardised criterion, including:
Performance: the flavour, aroma and temperature of the coffee needed to be enjoyable, so every coffee and espresso function was tested to assess this. Bitterness, acidity or weakness were scored down.
Value for money: performance and versatility play into this one. These appliances may be one of the largest investments you make for your kitchen, so the price must feel right.
Ease of use: all were scored from unboxing, so they had to be simple to unpack with easy-to-follow instructions. When the variety of settings is so broad, intuitive controls make the experience fun. Everything from milk-wand range of motion to adjustable drip trays and access for refilling the water tank and bean hoppers were considered.
Convenience: is one of the biggest selling points for buying a bean-to-cup espresso machine, so excessive complication affected scoring.
Quantity of materials: flimsy build-materials don’t warrant a high price tag and make things difficult to clean. They also affect the longevity of an appliance’s life.
Design and aesthetic for keeping on the countertop: bean-to-cup machines are generally very deep and broad, so a good design plays into this.
The average scores out of five decided each product’s overall star rating. The additional criteria played into our decision making.
Variety of functions
Kitchen footprint
Ease of cleaning
Advanced features
Packaging
All costs-to-run calculations were done against the variable tariff at the time of testing (16.6p/kWh), which may have since changed – read more on the current energy price guarantee rates.
Want to learn more about becoming an expert at-home barista? Read our guides here:
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Celeste Wonghttps://www.thegirlinthecafe.co.uk/<![CDATA[Best instant coffee to buy]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1462902024-01-08T15:17:07Z2024-01-08T15:14:55Z
Looking for a quick coffee fix? Instant coffee is your friend, and doesn’t have to be the low-quality coffee that it often has the reputation for.
I remember drinking bad instant coffee as a youngster with my family on holiday or when camping, but there always used to be something a little ironically romantic (and now nostalgic) about having a bad coffee in a cool spot. Since then, the whole instant coffee category has improved and there are now much better, high-quality options available.
Even with specialty coffee more easily available, about 80% of UK households still stock instant coffee in their cupboards (according to the British Coffee Association). Brands are creating new innovations to lure us with variations such as the instant cappuccino sachet or the ‘cafe-style’ instant latte. Some brands are also quite rightly looking at more important factors like the quality of coffee beans used and the method of the drying process itself which heavily influences the overall quality of instant coffee.
Best coffee bags selection: Artisan Coffee Co. Coffee Bags, from £9.99
Best large coffee bags: Faff Single Origin Coffee Bags, from £24 for 30 bags
What is instant coffee?
Instant coffee is dried-out coffee extract that is instantly re-dissolvable in hot water. It can either be freeze-dried or spray-dried. Overall, the freeze-dried process leads to better flavour and aroma and generally produces a higher quality instant coffee. Spray-dried instant coffee can often have a burnt flavour.
Types of beans used in instant coffee can be either Arabica or Robusta or a blend of the two, but I would always recommend looking for coffee that uses Arabica, a much higher quality, better tasting bean.
The main reasons to drink instant coffee are for time efficiency (it is very quick to make), plus it is usually cheaper than coffee beans or ground coffee. Instant coffee requires no barista skills or equipment and has a long shelf life. Nutritionally, instant coffee usually has less caffeine (due to the drying process) than traditionally made coffee but still holds a lot of coffee’s antioxidants.
Quokka uses Fairtrade and FNC-certified coffee, ensuring it is ethically and sustainably sourced. This 100% Colombian Arabica freeze-dried coffee comes in a simply designed but memorable red recyclable aluminium tin. The light-in-colour dry chunky granules have a subtle aroma. I was really surprised by my first sip as it was pleasant and didn’t have a strong astringent bitter taste often associated with instant coffee. The cup was clean with no crema, which I liked because it looked like a proper filter coffee. It has a nice aroma and is smooth to drink if you don’t use too many granules: I used 1.5 teaspoons.
At £9.99 for 100g, it is more expensive than most of the supermarket brands, but worth the extra few pounds if you are supplementing your specialty coffee with the odd instant. There are also bulk-buy options for offices or higher volume drinkers.
TrueStart Coffee is run by a husband and wife team who offer a range of products including instant coffee, cold brew cans, coffee bags and specialty coffee beans.
This instant coffee is 100% Colombian Arabica coffee that was really pleasant to drink: naturally sweet, bold and not overpowering. The instant coffee comes in two sizes, 100g and 500g. They also do an office pack and a decaf instant coffee if you are so inclined.
Lavazza is one of the longest standing Italian-style coffee companies around (since 1895!) and has a huge range of coffees ranging from coffee beans to instant coffee and coffee capsules.
The Prontissimo Americano is an extremely fine instant coffee, made by blending 5% roasted ground coffee with the instant powder. The result tastes just like an espresso americano you might find in cafés, and is an incredibly drinkable cup for those who like a rich black coffee, but one that doesn’t taste too strong. For a stronger coffee, increase the recommended amount of instant coffee powder until you find a ratio that suits you.
This is a surprising and unique collaboration between a large coffee company (Nescafé) and an independent specialty coffee roaster in Manchester (Grindsmith Coffee Roasters), whose coffee shops I can certainly recommend.
Nescafé have had huge success with their Azera range already and claim that this is UK and Ireland’s first craft instant coffee. However, I would say others in this list (Notes and TrueStart, for example) have long been using specialty grade coffee to make their instant coffee too.
The instant coffee itself uses a blend of Brazil and Colombian coffee. The powder is fine in texture and light in colour. If you like a strong and bold chocolaty coffee, with a slight bitter finish, then this is one for you.
If you are a fan of flavoured syrups or sugar in your coffee, then this is a great option. There are plenty of flamboyant flavours to choose between, from Apple Cinnamon to Sticky Toffee Pudding, Cookies and Cream, Chocolate Orange and many more! The coffee comes in small 50g glass jars holding chunky coffee granules that make about 25 coffees.
I tried the Hazelnut Instant which has a very strong, sweet and hazelnut aroma. It tastes just how it smells: sweet and nutty! It’s personally a little sweet for me, although it is vegan as well as being sugar-, nut-, gluten-, wheat- and dairy-free. Different milk options would work well and add another dimension to this coffee.
If you are a bit adventurous, a coffee newbie with a sweet tooth or want to experiment, have a look at the whole Beanies range.
Artisan Coffee has a classy range of coffee bags that all have bold and evocative names like ‘The Genius’, ‘The Smart Cookie’, ‘The Big Shot’, ‘The Heroine’ and more, that refer to their taste profiles. Whilst not strictly instant coffee, these are pretty much instant to brew and match instant coffee by needing no equipment.
These coffee bags have ground coffee inside them, so work similarly to teabags and are also similar in size (about 7.5g), but with coffee inside. They are priced similarly to fresh ground coffee at around £7-8 per box of 20. I found the taste to be similar in strength to tea, mild and pleasant – so it’s not a heavy cup of coffee which you might need in the morning, but a perfect light afternoon or evening cuppa. There is an extensive tasting collection if you want to try all the flavours out, and they come individually wrapped, which makes them a convenient option to take camping or away on short trips. It would be great to see these in hotels and accommodation in addition to the vast teabag selections usually on offer.
Faff coffee bags live up to the claim on the packet – #nofaff.
The bags are large (double the size of most other coffee bags), holding about 15g of coffee each. A box comes with 15 bags packaged in a sealable coffee bag that visually looks like a bag of fresh coffee. The bags are compostable but not individually wrapped so it’s not convenient if you want to take one or two away with you.
I was impressed by the strong taste and full flavour of the Guatemalan coffee brewed from the bag. The taste was the closest we tried to a filter coffee made with fresh ground beans, but without the equipment.
This fun and bold brand is definitely a good option for the coffee lover who wants fresh coffee but not all the faff of making it in the morning.
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Lucy Roxburgh<![CDATA[Best gin subscriptions and clubs]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1246222024-01-08T14:47:08Z2024-01-08T14:42:33Z
If you’re a fan of gin or know someone who is, a gin subscription might be perfect. Sign up for a monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly subscription and get gin delivered direct to your door. It’s a great way to discover new brands.
We’ve tried out a whole range of gin subscription services, from those specialising in unique flavours and Scottish distilleries, to mega-boxes packed with snacks, mixers and garnishes galore. Find the perfect box to suit your budget and taste.
Founded in 2015, Craft Gin Club is the UK’s largest gin subscription service. Each box contains a full-sized bottle of gin that supports craft producers, plus a whole lot more. The box follows a different theme each month – our Provence-themed box included an exclusive 70cl bottle of QVT Dry Gin Édition CGC (distilled in Provence and infused with lavender and rose petals) alongside a variety of gourmet French-inspired snacks, plus mixers, garnishes and syrups. The box also contains Craft Gin Club’s own magazine, entirely dedicated to the contents of the box. It includes plenty of cocktail ideas, bakes and interviews.
The box feels like real treat to open, with enough goodies inside to spread your tastings out over a few days – a gift that keeps on giving! There are flexible subscription options – with so much in the box, even a bi-monthly subscription would feel generous. At £42 a box, this feels extremely good value for the amount it contains, especially considering the bespoke products, and would make a great gift – perhaps even to yourself.
Craft56 showcases the best artisan spirits producers across Scotland, with a vast range of Scottish gins, whiskies and more available in its online shop. The Craft56 Scottish gin club curates small-batch gins from distilleries across Scotland and delivers direct to you every month.
There are three subscription lengths on offer: monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly. The first month’s delivery includes a branded gin glass.
Each month, gin club subscribers will receive a full 70cl bottle of gin from a Scottish distillery, along with mixers, tasting notes and serving suggestions. We receive a medley of gins and mixers from brands previously included in the subscription for a taste of what to expect. The full-flavoured Glaswegin (in a uniquely designed bottle), infused with orange flower and pink peppercorns, becomes a new favourite. Quirky Scottish tonic waters highlight the flavours of the gin – a great way to mix up your standard G&T.
While this may be one of the higher-end subscriptions, the full-size bottle of top-quality gin makes this good value for money, especially with the extra mixers and expert notes.
Established gin brand Sipsmith London is famous for its classic London Dry Gin or tangy Lemon Drizzle gin, as well as running tours of its London distillery. The Sipsmith Sipping Society is its bi-monthly subscriber club, sending out unique and seasonal gins made exclusively for members.The Sipsmith Sipping Society stood out from other gin deliveries for its beautiful packaging: the embossed green box contains detailed tasting notes and four cocktail recipes on luxurious cards in an envelope with a wax seal. This adds a real sense of mystery and exclusivity to the experience.The limited-edition gins in the boxes are available exclusively to Sipping Society members. Our box contained a Peach Melba Gin Liqueur (32% ABV) and Mad Hatter’s Gin. The peach liqueur is described as ‘dessert in a bottle’, whilst the Mad Hatter’s Gin, to celebrate Alice in Wonderland, is lightly floral. If you’re already a fan of Sipsmith gins, this is your chance to try creative new flavours made from all-natural ingredients that offer a real talking point and unique experience. £35 for bi-monthly delivery is great value for the exclusivity and bespoke, artisan feel of the subscription.Read our full review of the Sipsmith Sipping Society here.Available from: Sipsmith, £35 bi-monthly
Little Gin Box is a great value non-committal gin subscription service, sourcing gins from small artisan distillers. The super affordable gin subscription, starting from just £10 a month, offers two carefully selected 50ml gins each month. Twin brand Little Rum Box offers the same service with high quality rums, if rum is more your bag. For an extra £12.50, your first box will come with six gins instead of two – a bargain and a great way to start your gin journey. There’s also the opportunity to buy a premium version via Buyagift, where each box comes with three gins and three accompanying garnishes.
We really liked that this subscription includes a mixture of both classic and flavoured gins, so there’s good variety to explore. Our box included a pretty Misty Isle pink gin, infused with raspberries and blackcurrants harvested from the distillery garden on the Isle of Skye. Each gin comes with a tasting card showing the full bottle of gin, details about the brand and notes, a best serve suggestion and space to rate the gin out of five. Full size bottles are available to buy from their well-stocked gin shop.
This is brilliant value for money for a non-committal way to try out new gins and discover unique small brands, perfect if you don’t want to invest lots and don’t need added extras.
interGin prides itself on being a true gin expert, with a well-stocked online gin shop, Gin magazine and resident ‘ginsarian’ (aka gin expert) who taste tests and researches every gin covered by the gin club.
The gin club offers monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly subscriptions and can be cancelled any time. The box is generously stocked, with the highlight being a full-sized bottle of genuine craft gin. Our box contains a striking 70cl bottle of Sixling cloudberry-infused Irish gin, a unique find that has wild berry, grapefruit and elderflower botanicals. This high-quality gin is a World Gin Awards winner, and we enjoy experimenting with it and the selection of generously sized, varied mixers the box contains. The box also contains a mini sample of Edinburgh Gin’s lemon and jasmine gin and a copy of Gin magazine. The one area the box slightly falls down is the snack selection – while generous in quantity, ours includes jelly beans, a chocolate croissant and Walkers gin tarts, which don’t quite match up to the quality of the gin and don’t seem to have a clear curated theme.
Overall, the real strength of the box is the gin, which almost comes to the value of the box itself. It’s a fun selection with an informative magazine and a chance to discover unusual new favourites.
Created by best friends Emira Shepherd and Paul Hudson-Jones, The Gin To My Tonic began life as a humble Instagram account. It’s now a giant in the gin world, hosting meet-the-maker shows, festivals and tastings, plus an online store and monthly gin club.
The club provides you with a full sized bottle of gin, paired bottles of Fever-Tree mixers and a link to a live Saturday-night tasting event starring representatives from featured distilleries. The virtual tasting – which you can access at a later date, if you can’t make the live event – is a smoothly run Zoom affair, with Em and Paul hosting a dazzling line-up of gin distillers (including the Hendrick’s master distiller, Lesley Gracie), ambassadors and mixologists. For overall value for money, a full-sized bottle of a newly-released, unique gin (that you’re perhaps unlikely to discover yourself), Fever-Tree mixers and 2½ hours of live meet-the-maker screen time makes this a pretty sweet deal.
Discover your perfect gin with ILoveGin, a subscription service focusing on bringing you gins from unique distillers. Choose from a monthly, three-month, six month or yearly gin subscription. This is pleasantly low commitment, with the freedom to pause, skip or cancel at any time.
The wallet-friendly subscription focuses on miniatures rather than full-sized bottles of gin. In our box, we received two 5cl bottles of Copperfield London Dry Gin, one with floral notes and the other juniper-rich, along with a Pink Peppercorn Tonic from Merchant’s Heart and a light low-calorie tonic from Lixir. This is enough to make four G&Ts that you won’t find in the shops, perfect for making a round of drinks to serve friends or family. A nifty recipe booklet is also provided, detailing the perfect serve, garnish, the story of the drinks and a page to record your thoughts on the gins and mixers you’ve tried.
Though it is slightly no frills compared to other brands, if encountering new and interesting gins is what you’re after, this is a fail-safe membership to enjoy.
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Kate Hawkings<![CDATA[Best wine subscriptions and clubs]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1384762024-01-08T11:22:27Z2024-01-08T11:19:12Z
Wine subscription boxes have enjoyed huge success over the past few years as drinkers were forced to do more shopping online. The concept is simple – a wine delivery to your door at regular intervals, relieving you from having to choose from a shelf then lugging the bottles home.
Whether you want everyday, reliable wines that won’t scare the horses, or are looking to expand your usual wine horizons with unexpected bottles from unexpected places, here are some of the best options around.
If you’re ready to start trying new wines, read our guide to ordering wine online and consider a decanter to let top quality wine breathe – we’ve gathered the best decanters to get you started.
Laithwaite’s has been delivering wine for more than 50 years, selling dependable, no-nonsense wines at reasonable prices. There are plenty of wine subscription choices to choose from, as well as craft beer options, along with exclusive offers and tasting events for members.
An introductory Hero’s Collection offer of 12 bottles of wine (in six pairs of all white, all red or mixed), two Dartington Crystal wine tumblers, plus a free bottle of red, tasting notes and free delivery costs only £95.88, representing a claimed £57 saving on normal prices. The box we tried included a sauvignon blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region, bursting with zesty tropical fruit, and a classic oak-aged red rioja by Barón de Barbón.
You can also upgrade to the Unlimited option for an annual payment of £24 which gives free delivery on any order, even if it’s just one bottle, or Premiere Membership for £50 which gets you two free bottles of wine whenever you order 12 or more. Any wines you don’t like will be refunded in full. Overall, Laithwaite’s offers reliable wines from established wineries that will appeal to those most comfortable with familiar regions and styles of wines.
When Oranj couldn’t open as planned as a natural wine bar in London in 2020, the Oranj monthly wine subscription service was launched instead, along with an online wine shop. Haven’t tried natural wine before? Read our guide to natural wine for everything you need to know.
Boxes contain between one and six bottles, priced at £30 to £150, with a choice of delivery every two, four or eight weeks. Expect the unexpected from Oranj’s groovy range of natural wines, with the box curated by a different sommelier or foodie each month. In the case we tested, the wine selection was picked by Pete Kelly of Hackney’s Chinese-inspired restaurant Lucky & Joy and includes a Sauvignon Blanc/Müller Thurgau/Muscat blend from Germany’s Staffelter Hof and a great Zweigelt/Blaufränkisch rosé by esteemed maker Judith Beck.
Wines come simply packaged with an artist-designed poster, and a booklet with tasting notes, food matching suggestions and recipes. Subscribers also get access to virtual tasting and cook-a-long events and a 10% discount on their online shop prices.
The Oranj club offers a little bit of everything, with a happy mash-up of wine, food, art and music. Read our full review of the Oranj wine subscription here.
If you want to try new wines and branch out from what you know but are worried about buying a bottle you won’t love, a Brixton Wine Club subscription could be the answer. With the slogan ‘not your Mum and Dad’s wine club’, Brixton Wine Club specialises in canned wines.
There are six wine subscription options to choose from: white, red, rosé, sparkling and low-alcohol, plus a canned cocktail box. You can also choose to receive three, four or six cans a month. We choose the ‘Juice Box’ subscription, containing a mix of white, red, rosé and sparkling wines. Boxes are available as a one-off delivery or three-, six- or 12-month subscriptions, can be cancelled any time and start at £19 a month for three cans.
Our ‘Juice Box’ arrives with six cans (two whites, two rosés, a red and a spritz) snuggly tucked in slim cardboard packaging and accompanied by simple tasting notes. The varied selection included a Ramona dry sparkling rosé and a fruity First Crush syrah red. As well as the practicality of getting to taste new wines without commitment, there’s the environmental benefit – cans are lighter than bottles to transport and easily recyclable.
Overall, Brixton Wine Club offers an affordable, fun way to try new wines without committing to whole bottles. A subscription would be particularly great for summer – perfect for taking cans to the park and on picnics.
Based in the Kentish Downs and surrounded by vineyards and wine makers, Corkk are on a mission to champion English wine, especially smaller, artisanal producers. They’re doing this via their Corkk Club, which offers still, sparkling or mixed cases of wine curated by Master of Wine and English wine expert Clive Barlow.
The strength of the Corkk Club is the many options available. Choose from still, sparkling or mixed cases on a monthly (from £18.50 a month for still, £33 for sparkling, £45 for mixed), quarterly or six-month basis. You can also customise how many bottles you receive in each box, with options for one, two, three, six and 12 bottles.
We chose a three-bottle box, which arrived in minimal (yet still secure) plastic-free packaging, alongside lengthy descriptions and tasting notes for each wine. We loved the wines we were sent, including Wiltshire’s fresh and zingy Whitehall Vineyard bacchus 2019 with appealing elderflower and green apple notes; and a crisp, lively Simpsons Wine Estate Gravel Castle chardonnay from Kent.
With a wide range of price points, this is an accessible wine subscription and a great way to get more in-depth knowledge of English wine, as well as supporting smaller, local winemakers and vineyards.
Wine of England is an English wine specialists that lists nearly 100 wines on its online shop, mostly from lesser-known wineries, as well as this monthly two-bottle subscription.Choose between 2 reds, two whites, one of each, or a double-sized subscription with four bottles. Wines arrive with comprehensive tasting notes, a guide to tasting sparkling wines, and seasonal recipes designed to match the wines. We received two bottles from the excellent Simpsons wine estate in Kent, including the UK’s first still wine made from the pinot meunier grape that’s most usually used in sparkling wines.This is a classy introduction to English wine for those who wish to delve beyond the most famous names found on wine shop shelves. Read our full review of the Wine of England subscription here.
Abel & Cole, the organic box scheme giant, offer a weekly Cheese and Wine Club, a simple subscription that is an easy add-on to their regular box schemes.
Currently there are only two wines – red or white – offered, but they are both from the excellent Purato winery in Sicily whose ‘green to the extreme’ philosophy ticks all the sustainability boxes – organic, carbon neutral, vegan, and packaged in 100% recycled and recyclable materials. While the wine stays the same, it’s the cheese that changes each week – we received a big wedge of Wyfe of Bath cheese in perfect condition. Abel & Cole are pioneers of low-plastic and compostable packaging and their boxes are returnable for re-use.
At £13.75, this combination is £2 cheaper than ordering the items separately and is great value for everyday drinking with cheese alongside.
Peckham Cellars is a neighbourhood restaurant and wine shop that opened in south-east London in 2019 and quickly moved to online wine sales when covid struck. It’s now launched a monthly wine club subscription, Club Del Vino.
Each month’s selection is based on a theme: a country, region or wine style. Choose all reds or a mixed case that might include sparkling and/or orange wines.
The emphasis is on wines from small producers using low-intervention techniques, with a fair smattering of funky natural wines. Our box includes a cracking fizz made with indigenous grapes by famed Portuguese winemaker Filipa Pato. Wines arrive with tasting notes, food pairing suggestions and lovely recipes to suit each one.
Club Del Vino membership gives access to exclusive tastings and events and 10 per cent off in the wine shop (both online and in store) and Peckham Cellars restaurant. Geared towards adventurous drinkers with a sense of fun, this is a really engaging (and engaged) wine club.
The Sourcing Table is an off-shoot of Indigo Wines, one of the UK’s most respected importers, which has been tracking down really exciting wines for nearly 20 years. Quarterly wine club subscription boxes bring you top-quality wines that were previously only available in restaurants and independent wine shops.
It is easy to subscribe online: simply choose to receive either six (£120) or 12 bottles (£240) selected by wine-experts every quarter, which is around 15% cheaper than buying the wines individually.
The Sourcing Table buy most of their wines directly from winemakers, many of whom work with organic and/or biodynamic principles. Our favourites were a wonderful dry riesling from Vignoble du Rêveur in Alsace, and Patapon, a joyously fresh natural red made from the unusual Pineau d’Aunis grape in the Loire. Members get assigned a personal wine guru who get to know their preferences so can guide them in future purchases, as well as access to monthly live tasting and Q&A sessions with winemakers and 10% off any other purchases.
This wine subscription is equally good for those already geeky about wine, or for those hungry to learn but without much knowledge.
The Wine Society is a highly-regarded member-owned co-operative – life membership costs a one-off £40 joining fee, of which £20 is refundable against your first order of whatever you buy. Their Wine Without Fuss subscription boxes offer flexible plans to suit all tastes and pockets, while their Vintage Cellar Plans are aimed at more serious wine collectors.
Signing up is easy, then you’re spoilt for choice. There are five Wines Without Fuss options, with 12-bottle cases priced from £95 to £169. Choose all reds, all whites or a mixed case, or customise your own plan, including deciding how often you want to receive a case. Wines arrive with tasting notes and food-matching suggestions. In addition, the website has an enormous amount of information on every bottle and winemaker.
With customer service and wines that never miss a beat, the Wines Without Fuss subscription service does just what it says on the tin, whichever option you choose.
Based at its shop in North London, Provisions imports wine, cheese and other artisan food products from specialist makers in Europe. Its wine subscription scheme offers ‘learn while you drink’ natural wine experiences through its monthly wine boxes.
Choose from a one-off case of three wines for £67.50 or sign up for three, six or 12 months and pay £65, £60 or £55 per month respectively.
Each monthly case is themed, whether from a particular region, grape variety or style. Our month’s theme was orange wine and was a great introduction to these sometimes challenging but very food-friendly wines. There’s an immaculate sauvignon blanc from Slovakia and a nutty and complex 2009 ugni blanc from Château Tour Blanc in Gascony. Shipping is free and comes with a booklet giving details of the wines and their makers along with great food-pairing ideas.
Overall, the Provisions wine box offers really interesting wines from very good makers, with the 12-month subscriptions offering good value for money.
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Anya Gilbert<![CDATA[10 best coffee pod machines for delicious and fuss-free coffee]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1457172024-01-08T10:22:58Z2024-01-08T10:22:58Z
Espresso is at the heart of every classic coffee and the best coffee pod machines will produce a richly dark, aromatic shot in under 30 seconds from a protective capsule. Each pod contains the perfect measure for a single espresso and removes the need to faff around with grinding, dosing and tamping coffee grounds.
The footprints of these machines are far more compact than bean-to-cup coffee machines, so for smaller kitchens or limited countertop space, are a space-saving option for making short coffees. They also keep all the mess of using ground coffee contained. If milky coffee-classics are your favourites, we’d recommend pairing a coffee pod machine with one of our tried-and-tested favourite milk frothers.
Speed is another reason to consider a pod machine. These machines force heated water from its tank into the coffee pods until they burst and release rich, quickly brewed espresso. Every machine will preheat after switch-on. From then, it’s possible to get an aroma-packed espresso shot or slightly longer lungo in under 30 seconds.
Another advantage of these machines is the mess-free approach. It removes many of the other aspects of coffee-making like the grinding, dosing and tamping of grounds which makes the whole process much more user-friendly.
How to choose the best coffee pod machine for your home
A coffee pod machine is an excellent entry into the world of reliably fast and delicious espresso. Before you buy, there are a couple of things to be aware of.
Pod compatibility: Nespresso? ESE? Lavazza? Keep this in mind when looking for a coffee pod machine. Some will have eco capsule options available. You can buy pods from independent roasteries to fit most (but not all) machine types. Brands like Nespresso require buying into the brand itself.
Versatile functions: although it’s often a single shot affair, most coffee pod machines offer a lungo function that draws a slightly longer shot than the traditional single espresso.
App connectivity: more modern models are often accompanied by apps and can be connected to via smartphone.
Coffee quantity programming: this will allow you to tell the machine how much to brew into your waiting cup so that it saves the quantity as your pre-set.
Best coffee pod machines at a glance
Best for speciality coffee and variety: Morning Coffee Machine, £440
New for 2022, the Morning Machine has levelled up what is possible to achieve from a coffee pod machine. Its sleek, compact design is both minimalistic and modern, oozing style without demanding attention. And behind the simplicity lies immense sophistication in the form of user-friendly precision controls. 10 ready-to-brew recipes are selectable by spinning the outer rim of its touchscreen frontage. Among them are a Kyoto drip coffee function for slowly brewing over ice in addition to Morning’s Brew and Bloom classic recipe for espresso.
It feels like the first time that certain features from professional espresso machines have been put into a coffee capsule machine. The extracted coffee is measured in grams rather than ml. And in addition to a manual function, coffee temperature, bar pressure and quantity are all adaptable. There’s even a small light to illuminate your espresso as it’s extracted. More barista recipes are available through the Morning app. The machine itself is both WiFi and Bluetooth connectable so if you want to brew your coffee from bed, you can.
Cult coffee brand Grind have teamed up with Swedish experts Sjöstrand to create its Grind One machine, a sleekly paired-back gadget compatible with Nespresso pods, that’s as graceful as it is industrial. Manual controls make it an unusually hands-on experience that was the most gratifying of all we tested.
Despite its small footprint, the boxy design paired with three rails around its top means there’s a practical espresso cup warmer to take advantage of; an unusual feature for a coffee pod machine. Needless to say, with a five-star rating this machine impressed far beyond the richly dark and crema-topped espresso it pulled. Read our full Grind One coffee pod machine review.
The latest release in Nespresso’s Vertuo range, this machine is compatible with the large range of Vertuo pods, which offer a variety of coffee sizes and styles. The machine simply reads the barcode of the pod you’ve selected and makes your chosen drink. The versatility of the machine is increased by the addition of a built-in milk frother.
On test, we found the attractive machine very user-friendly. Despite a slightly stiff lever to insert and remove the pods, once you’ve got the hang of it, making your morning coffee becomes a breeze. The espresso produced had a dark colour, with well-balanced acidity and a bubbly crema. It comes in matte white or black, which fits perfectly in a modern kitchen.
This slim, sleek and modern looking coffee pod machine from Opal is a great option if you like to experiment, with plenty of options to mix up your daily coffee. We found it super easy to use with three buttons to choose your espresso — short, normal or lungo, plus options to decide the temperature if you like a hotter or cooler drink. The slim machine has a small footprint so doesn’t take up too much countertop space and would fit under most kitchen cupboards.
While the machine fared well with generic Nespresso-compatible pods on test, it was the speciality pods which really shone. We tried the Gesha pods from Colonna which produced a thick, glossy crema with a lovely dark colour and rich caramel flavour. Read the full Opal One coffee pod machine review.
This coffee pod machine is a collaboration between two of the industry giants: Nespresso and Sage. The result is a sleek, modern, top-of-the-range machine with impressive functions. This is ideal if you want barista-style coffee in your own home but without the fuss of the bean-to-cup or espresso models.
The Vertuo Creatista caters to a range of coffee options and cup sizes, with an adjustable steam wand which can be programmed to different microfoam textures depending on whether you want a creamy latte or frothy cappuccino. When testing we found it produced an espresso with a strong, rich flavour and a thick bubbly crema.
The machine is on the large side compared to other coffee pod models we’ve tested, but it’s designed to make a statement in your kitchen. Read the full Nespresso Vertuo Creatista by Sage review.
The Lavazza Jolie has been available for few years, but the combination of its design and performance has stood the test of time against newer models. A single button controls the two coffee functions; espresso and the slightly longer lungo.
The cup holder is specifically designed for espresso cups, but removable for standard cups and mugs. For those with smaller countertops after simple and delicious espresso, the Jolie is a diminutive and efficient coffee pod machine that’s great value for money. Read our full Lavazza Jolie coffee pod machine review.
The slim new coffee pod machine from illy is an excellent option if good sustainability credentials are important to you. It uses compostable ESE pods that can be thrown into green waste collections, and at 800W was the most energy efficient machine we tested, still producing 20 bars of brew-pressure and an espresso in under 30 seconds.
The controls are nice and simple; espresso and lungo coffee functions are selectable by button. It has a power-saving mode that kicks in quickly. A large lid lever loads and locks the ESE pods into place. The fold-down espresso cup holder will also bring a little smile to your face. Read our full illy ESE coffee pod machine review.
Nespresso is a big brand player when it comes to coffee pod machines. On the Vertuo, unique coffee brewing technology means a a thick crema can be achieved even on filter coffee-quantities. This is more like a finely whipped foam, but still a welcome addition. The pods look like little space ships and vary in depth depending on the five coffee sizes you choose; espresso, double espresso, Gran Lungo, Mug and Alto.
Each capsule has a barcode on the underside which the machine reads before puncturing the cap in the middle and around the edges. The sound somewhat resembles that of a vacuum cleaner when it brews. Then the machine discards the used caps with a satisfying ping once the lid lock is released.
Although it’s larger than the others, you can’t go too far wrong with this coffee pod machine. There’s even an app to guide you through use. Read our full Nespresso Vertuo Next coffee pod machine review.
This is a great step-up from the Lavazza Jolie if you’re a fan of SMEG’s 1950s design aesthetic. This model proudly displays the SMEG and Lavazza brands across its front and requires a dominant spot on your countertop. The drip tray lifts up and out to allow space for a large mug. Espresso and lungo coffee options are available. Its energy saving mode kicks in after two minutes of inactivity and standby after seven.
The only niggle we encountered was its water tank; tricky to fill once the lid has been removed. However, unlike other machines, it’s possible to program the brew-quantity of this machine. It will also tell you when the water tank is empty, when the used capsule tray is full and when descaling is required. read our full Lavazza A Modo Mio Smeg coffee pod machine review.
The big unique selling point of this coffee pod machine is its milk-frothing wand and single-serve milk container which pulls out from the front for easy filling and cleaning. It’s the result of a collaboration between Nespresso and De’Longhi, two superpowers of the coffee landscape so the technology to brew and extract richly aromatic shots of coffee.
The milk system offers four little notches for guiding you on the milk quantities for three milky drinks; espresso macchiato (30ml), cappuccino (60ml) and latte macchiato (135ml to max 165ml) in addition to black espresso and lungo functions. It’s dishwasher-safe when dismantled. It’s possible to personalise the settings of each coffee and save a favourite for quick-select. One of the drawbacks of this model is the price, sitting over £200. However, it’s a great option for a household with different coffee preferences.
There’s cause for a cautious approach to coffee pods that are made from aluminium or plastic. Although some big brands like Nespresso offer programs that allow you to return used pods for recycling, there are more environmentally friendly coffee pods to choose from. Discover coffee expert Celeste Wong’s picks of the best eco-friendly coffee pod options out there, from small coffee roasteries to major brand players.
Unfortunately there’s no one-size-fits-all design to coffee pods; different brands require different pods (Nespresso, Lavazza and ESE are the major three designs) so when it came to testing, we kept as much parallel in roast and bean variety as possible, focussing on espresso and lungo programs. Popular brands for coffee pod machines include Nespresso,Lavazza and De’Longhi.
What types of drinks can you make in a coffee pod machine?
The choice of drinks on offer will depend on which coffee pod machine you opt for, with some of the premium models allowing for longer or milky coffee options. At the most basic level, coffee pod machines make espressos, with a flavour profile determined by which capsule you choose.
Some machines have milk carafes, which means you will be able to make pretty much the full menu of your local coffee shop, from lattes to cappuccinos. Others offer different drink types depending on the pod you choose; for example Nespresso’s Vertuo pods have the option of offering a range of drink sizes as well as flavour profiles.
How we tested coffee pod machines
The coffee pod machines featured in this review were the best performing from a longlist of over 20. All were tested using compatible eco caps of similar roast strength and bean variety (excluding the Nespresso machine. The brand does a recycling service) and marked against a standardised criterion. The average score out of five decided each product’s overall star rating.
Quality of espresso
We looked for richly flavoured and aromatic espresso with a velvety crema.
Value for money
Did the price feel right? Every criteria from coffee quality to design played into this.
Ease of use
Coffee pod machines are all about speed and convenience, so we looked for easy steps from setting up, and cleaning to easy programming.
Quality of materials
Flimsy, rickety or cheap-feel components were a no-no.
Design and aesthetic for keeping on the countertop
How it looked, and how much space it took up, in the kitchen were considered.
The additional criteria played into our decision making:
Variety of functions
Kitchen footprint
Ease of cleaning
Packaging
All costs-to-run calculations were done against the variable tariff at the time of testing (16.6p/kWh), which may have since changed – read more on the current energy price guarantee rates.
Want to learn more about becoming an expert at-home barista? Read our guides here:
If you have any questions, suggestions for future reviews or spot anything that has changed in price or availability, please get in touch at oliveweb@immediate.co.uk.
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Celeste Wonghttps://www.thegirlinthecafe.co.uk/<![CDATA[Best moka pots to buy]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=1550912024-01-08T09:49:57Z2024-01-08T09:49:57Z
Looking for the best moka pot? Want to know which stovetop coffee maker to buy? Read our guide from coffee expert Celeste Wong below, then check out which bean-to-cup coffee machines to buy. Try Celeste’s tried and tested list of the best coffee beans to use in your moka pot.
A stovetop coffee maker is one of the best ways to reliably make high-quality, fuss-free coffee without needing dedicated countertop space for a machine. They make a great solution if your kitchen is on the smaller side and are a great size for taking on the road if you’re travelling.
Read on for Celeste Wong’s tried and tested recommendations of the best, plus all you need to know about what to consider before buying a moka pot or stovetop coffee machine. If you’re new to the world of stovetop coffee makers, we also guide you through how to use a moka pot and more.
Best moka pots and stovetop coffee makers at a glance
Best moka pot for strong coffee: Bodum Chambord, £59.90
Best small moka pot: Bialette New Moka induction stovetop, £44
Best lightweight model: VonShef 6 cup/300ml Italian espresso coffee maker, £21.99
Best sturdy model: Bialetti Moka espresso caffettiera, £24
Best portable moka pot: Bialetti 06969 Venus stovetop espresso coffee maker, from £24
Best moka pot design: Stelton Collar espresso maker, £58.70
Best advanced machine: 9barista stovetop espresso maker, £385
What are the benefits of using a stovetop coffee maker?
Everyone has a stovetop of some sort, so a coffee maker can become an essential part of kitchenware for the coffee lover. It’s especially perfect if you want a short, strong coffee. Most moka pots aren’t too heavy, so they can be stored easily or even taken away on holiday.
It’s a fast, efficient method that produces strong-tasting coffee and is eco-friendly in the sense that you don’t need messy filter papers, so it produces minimal waste. It’s the closest mouthfeel and strength to espresso you can get without having a machine. The coffee is usually not as intense as an espresso made in a machine; however, there is a product in our list that rivals even that.
What factors should be considered when buying a moka pot?
When you’re looking for a stovetop coffee maker, you want to consider:
The quality of materials (usually aluminium or stainless steel)
The volume (are you making coffee for one or more people?)
How often will you use it
Is it compatible with gas or induction?
Design or aesthetics
The best moka pots and stovetop coffee makers to buy in 2024
At first glance, this looks very similar to the classic Bodum cafetieres: tall and narrow, with the quintessential round knob on the flip lid. It’s made of shiny stainless steel and has a minimalist, smooth design with a wide handle, so there’s no chance of touching any hot metal of the hob element.
It feels nicely evenly weighted (at around 662g). This particular model makes about 177ml, and is usable on any stovetop: ceramic, electric, gas and induction. This makes it very versatile, and it makes a strong cup.
Bialetti moka pots are probably the most well-known because of their quality. This little moka pot is small and compact. There’s something about the traditional shape that is nostalgic and classic.
The upper part of this moka pot is made of aluminium alloy and has a stylish outer black coat, while the base is made of steel (with outer part suitable for induction hobs). The handle has a gripped texture made of thermoplastic material. Surprisingly, this is also suitable for any type of stovetop. The basket/funnel is wide for easy filling, and various colours are also available.
This is a very lightweight, shiny moka pot in the classic 10-sided shape. The handle has an ergonomic grip. The volume is great for a large, strong cup or for two smaller cups. This model is only compatible with electric, gas, ceramic and halogen hobs, so it’s not suitable for induction.
The quality of the inner part and silicon rings doesn’t seem as high as others we tested; overall, it feels a little more flimsy in comparison, but is a very affordable option that will do the trick. It’s important to clean and dry these aluminium moka pots well to maximise the longevity of the equipment.
Style-wise, this Bialetti moka espresso pot looks almost identical to the VonShef moka pot and and is also made of aluminium, but feels slightly heavier and more sturdy. The handle and knob on the lid feel smoother, too. This design has an octagon shape and makes a good volume of coffee. The holes in the filter screen in the funnel are slightly larger than on the VonShef moka pot, to let the steamed water through more easily.
Made from stainless steel, this can be used on electric or ceramic induction hobs as well as gas/fire. Induction always seems a little quicker and the coffee that comes through is good. The design and shape of this Bialetti induction moka pot is different to the more classic Italian shape. It’s great because you have all the options of heat, so it’s a good one to take away with you on holiday, too.
Designed by Italian duo Daniel Debiasi and Federico Sandri for Danish Design company Stelton, this has simplicity and a different shape, with its sleek wooden handle and minimalist straight black body. The coffee produced is lovely and full in body.
The volume of the base chamber is about 240ml, and it has an extra filter plate that sits on top of the coffee, which none of the other moka pots tested had. Be careful not to overfill the coffee basket though, because you run the risk of bending the filter plate. It’s a little more pricey than the other more traditional-looking options, but overall a good coffee and beautiful, modern design.
Warning: this isn’t a moka pot because it really isn’t in the same category. However, it is a stand-out stovetop for those who want a much more professional espresso-like coffee without the big machine.
This is an impressive piece of kit. It has a unique twin-boiler system that heats to 170C, then pushes the pressure to 9bar exactly (the same pressure a commercial espresso machine would demand). This opens a valve that allows water to pass through the coil heat exchanger to bring the temperature back down to 100C, then 93C, where it passes through the coffee.
A smooth crema comes up into the espresso reservoir, making this fun to play with – the method and physical motions are very similar to when you use a manual espresso machine with tamping and a lever lock ‘portafilter’. The espresso is lovely to drink. You can use both regular espresso coffee and decaf, or make a latte by combining this with a milk frother. The technology is very impressive.
The caveats are that this is much more expensive than a regular moka pot for the stove, plus you’ll need a very good coffee grinder that grinds fine enough, which can also be expensive. However, the machine is intuitive to use and produces a superior espresso compared to the humble moka pot.
A stovetop coffee maker boils water from the bottom of a chamber. This creates steam pressure that forces hot water through the coffee and up into a top chamber. The name ‘moka pot’ for a stovetop coffee maker came from the 1933 invention by Alfonso Bialetti, named after the Yemeni city of Mocha.
How do you use a moka pot?
All moka pots come with very detailed descriptions if you’re unfamiliar with how to use one. All in our list below (except the 9barista stovetop) are used in the same way – fill the bottom chamber with water to the valve, put medium-ground coffee in the funnel, screw the top part on and heat on the stove until the water pushes up the extracted coffee. Read our full guide to how to use a moka pot for more detail.
Want to learn more about becoming an expert at-home barista? Read our guides here:
The espresso is a fundamental staple of coffee culture – the full-bodied, deliciously dark result of brewing coffee under pressure with hot water, characteristically topped with a velvety crema.
This forms the basis of most coffee-house classics including cappuccino, latte, americanos and more. Traditional espresso machines use a pump mechanism to push near-boiling water through compacted coffee grounds with around 15 bars of pressure, and there is now a host to choose from for achieving barista-style coffee in your own kitchen.
Espresso machines aren’t always manual, but the process of tamping the ground coffee, loading and unloading the portafilter and steaming your milk is a hands-on experience you’ll recognise from commercial coffee houses. And you don’t have to be a seasoned barista to make great coffee either.
Many machines offer the step-by-step guidance to walk you through creating espresso-based drinks, then the technical sophistication to brew richly flavoured and aromatic shots topped with caramel-coloured crema. Some will even teach you how to build latte art skills.
Depending on your budget and level of passion for the process, there are different considerations when finding the perfect espresso machine for you. The number of personalisation options on your espresso machine will correlate to the price: the more you spend, usually the more features to help you tailor each element to your taste, from the grind-grade to brewing time and milk temperature.
Additional features often include a milk steam wand. Single and double cup filters are common staples. Some machines will also be ESE pod compatible, which are biodegradable and mess-free alternatives to coffee pods or ground coffee. A two-in-one dosing spoon and tamper is another common accessory.
Bean-to-cup machines have integrated bean grinders that will automatically grind and dose coffee grounds depending on your selected drink. Some ‘manual’ espresso machines still plug into the mains but require you to do the dosing and tamping before it heats the water and adds pressure to extract the espresso.
These models often come with a button interface offering single, double and ESE pod options.
Fully manual pump espresso machines don’t need to be plugged into the mains so share one obvious credential: sustainability. This is only to a certain extent, considering you need to preheat the water in a kettle anyway. It does mean, however, that espresso can be made while out and about.
Best espresso machines at a glance
Best mid-range espresso machine: SMEG ECF01 home espresso machine, £299
Best modern classic: Gaggia New Classic espresso machine, £489
Best compact bean-to-cup machine for espresso: De’Longhi La Specialista Arte manual espresso machine, £429
Best bean-to-cup espresso machine: Sage The Oracle Touch espresso machine, £1,799.95
Best mid-range buy for simplicity: Sage The Bambino Plus espresso maker, £328.95
Best compact machine for quality accessories: KitchenAid Artisan espresso machine, £449
This espresso machine is unmistakably SMEG’s, channelling the brand’s chunky 1950s styling into a slimline footprint. Behind the deceptively simple three-button interface lies a comprehensive series of personalisation features.
Everything from water temperature, coffee quantity and automatic shut off timings can be tailored to your taste. The milk steam wand is efficient, although the lack of stainless-steel milk jug is a shame considering the price of the machine. But most importantly, the dark espresso is rich in flavour and topped with a silky crema. Read our full SMEG ECF01 espresso machine review.
Gaggia is an Italian coffee brand steeped in legacy that’s been at the forefront of home-coffee machines since the 1930s. Its Classic espresso machine was originally launched in the 1990s and is characterised by long lines and the trio of rocker switches that are still carried on its New Classic. But the magic that positions it as state-of-the-art machine for home-use lies beneath its stainless steel outer.
Unlike most home-espresso machines, this Gaggia has a solenoid valve for controlling water temperature inside the filter holder. All of the accompanying accessories are also professional grade. The chromed brass group and filter holder are the same weight and capacity as those used in commercial machines. A heavy tamper is a useful addition for ensuring the even compression of grounds, plus the cup storage is actually a practical size for five espresso cups. It’s pricey, but the perfect espresso machine for style and substance.
De’Longhi La Specialista Arte manual espresso machine
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Best compact bean-to-cup espresso machine
Star rating: 5/5
Thanks to its integrated bean storage and grinder, you can class this as a bean-to-cup coffee machine. But it’s manual elements of a loadable filter holder enables a hands-on, experiential coffee making experience synonymous with espresso machines.
It’s a great value choice for anyone who likes their beans ground freshly for every cup and the flexibility to experiment, alongside the sophisticated comforts of 11 coffee presets and the opportunity to save your preferences as favourites. High-quality accessories accompany the machine in a barista kit. The comprehensive instruction manual walks you through set-up and the basics of coffee to milk ratios of classic espresso-based drinks. But for the curious, it also expands into areas like adapting pre-infusion temperature profiles and latte art skills, so will support the development of your own coffee knowledge. Despite its height, this model doesn’t dominate kitchen space so would be a compact bean-to-cup coffee machine option.
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This Sage is as forgiving to those who know nothing about coffee, as it’s adjustable for those who know exactly what they want. It’s a bean-to-cup machine that combines 11 automated pre-sets with sophisticated personalisation features, while leaving the fun bits to you, like loading the portafilter and frothing the milk in a stainless-steel jug. It grinds and doses beans depending on the filter basket you’ve loaded.
Grind level is adjustable, as is milk froth level, temperature and up to eight tailored drinks can be saved for selection on its touchscreen. Despite its bells and whistles, it fulfils the fundamental requirements of guaranteeing a great cup of coffee every time. But if you’re after simple, delicious espresso, the same quality can be achieved from a much smaller and less expensive machine. Read our full Sage Oracle Touch espresso maker review.
This is a sleek little gadget that delivers on the style front as much as the performance with a brushed-metal body and textured control buttons.
Like its bigger counterpart, the Bambino comes with a water filter which slots into the water tank – a well thought out addition that will help prolong the life of the espresso machine, particularly handy for those in hard-water areas. It also has an in-depth manual that guides you through tamping techniques and filter fill levels. Read our full Sage Bambino plus espresso maker review.
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KitchenAid’s Artisan espresso machine doesn’t disappoint. A proper coffee tamper is included in the box along with an accurate coffee scoop and single and double-wall filter baskets depending on whether your coffee is freshly ground or not. The machine is not very tall so it’s a practical model for slotting below kitchen cupboards on countertops.
This does mean it limits the type of cup you could fit below the outlet, tall mugs won’t be accommodated. We would have enjoyed a second cup tray for lifting short cups towards the coffee spout to prevent espresso from splashing. The four control icons are also small, but on a sustainability front, the five-year warranty offers important coverage that should save you replacing the whole machine in certain circumstances.
This espresso machine has the look and feel of a modern-classic. Just 14cm wide and 33cm deep, it’s also a practical option for smaller countertops, packing 15 bars of pressure into this compact footprint for professional espresso extraction.
The result was gleefully strong and aromatic without a hint of bitterness. It’s an excellent example of both style and substance being packed into an affordable espresso machine. Read our full De’Longhi Dedica EC685.M review.
The portability, design quality and experience of the Wacaco makes it one of the most satisfying espresso makers we’ve ever tested. It’s like a Russian doll – each part slots into another until you’re left with one hand-sized gadget with a manual pump.
Despite its size it produces 9 bars of pressure for a single espresso and the result is a rocket-fuel shot topped with silky crema that rivals all the others tested. Plus you can chuck it in your bag for easy transportation. Read our full Wacaco MiniPresso GR espresso maker review.
As far as manual espresso makers go, the ROK GC is the pick for anyone that enjoys navigating the process of extraction for producing a perfect shot. The Explorer’s GC Edition features the brand’s traditional cast-aluminium exterior, but an upgraded glass composite brewing chamber along with accessories and three portafilters.
The body easily absorbs heat from the hot water but when you get it right, it’s a gratifying, hands-on experience. We found that pre-heating the machine and using the naked portafilter produced the best crema-topped espresso. Read our full ROK GC espresso maker review.
For the eco-conscious, the slimline footprint of the Flair is incredibly practical if you’re looking for a manual espresso machine that’s both elegant and easy to store. Importantly, it produces outstanding espresso.
The bundle includes a branded pressure gauge and chess piece tamper with great quality feel, although these are sold separately. Thanks to the two-piece set-up, it’s also a cinch to clean. Read our full Flair Signature espresso maker review.
Grind your own beans: freshly ground beans offer the best flavour and taste.
Buy beans with a ‘roasted on’ date rather than a ‘use by’ date: store them in an airtight, opaque container. Old coffee beans can taste bitter.
Invest in a proper tamper: most espresso machines will arrive with a two-in-one dosing spoon and tamper. But there’s a reason professional baristas use heavy little numbers and put their body weight into compressing the grounds. The goal is to press out any air bubbles and create an even layer for brewing, particularly for achieving the same amount when splitting a double espresso into two cups.
Preheat manual pump espresso makers: pulling a ‘mock espresso’ without coffee will help prevent a cold machine from stealing all the precious heat from the hot water as it infuses your grinds.
Clean your filter and milk wand after every use: coffee residue and oils linger long after you’ve rinsed your portafilter
Like coffee a different way? Find out how to make coffee like a barista with our guide to achieving the perfect cup of cafetière, AeroPress or pour-over and discover our tried and tested picks of the best coffee machines, including bean-to-cup coffee machines and coffee pod machines. Like a latte, macchiato or flat white? Give your coffee a proper, barista-like serve using a milk frother.
How we tested espresso machines
The espresso machines featured in this review were the best performing appliances chosen from a longlist of more than 20 machines. All were tested in control conditions using a standardised criterion with ground espresso coffee and scored out of five against the following areas:
Quality of espresso
Value for money
Ease of use
Quality of materials
Design and aesthetic for keeping on the countertop
The average score out of 5 decided the overall star rating. The additional criteria played into our decision making:
Variety of functions
Kitchen footprint
Ease of cleaning
Advanced features
Packaging
Want to learn more about becoming an expert at-home barista? Read our guides here:
If you have any questions, suggestions for future reviews or spot anything that has changed in price or availability, please get in touch at oliveweb@immediate.co.uk.
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Kate Hawkings<![CDATA[The lowdown on malbec wines]]>https://www.olivemagazine.com/?p=2251002024-01-05T10:33:06Z2024-01-05T10:29:09Z
It’s easy to see why malbec is among the nation’s favourite red grapes. Full of rich, plummy fruit, often with notes of leather, smoke and spice, it generally offers really good value for dependable, crowd-pleasing drinking. It’s also particularly well suited to dark, wintry nights.
Originally from south-west France, where it’s known as côt, malbec is used to make the famous ‘black wine’ of the Cahors region – so called because of its dense, inky colour. It’s been a regular import to the UK since the 13th century. Traditionally tough and very tannic when drunk young, these wines are best left to age for a few years to soften up but these days there are plenty of French malbecs made in lighter, more approachable styles.
However, Argentina is the real star of the modern malbec story – particularly high up in the Andes mountains in the province of Mendoza, where the climate really suits this tricky grape. This is where most malbecs on our shelves come from and they tend to have a brighter, more exuberant quality than traditional Cahors côts, as well as more supple tannins and a pleasing, velvety mouthfeel. Although they are often weighty in alcohol – 14% ABV or thereabouts – their generally high acidity gives balance and freshness.
Steak, practically Argentina’s national dish, is usually the go-to food match, although any robust, meaty food is a safe bet – think pulled pork with a sticky sauce, or a perhaps a sausage casserole – and they’re one of my favourite things to drink with lasagne or a spag bol. When it comes to veggie choices, aubergines have a natural affinity with malbec, particularly when baked with a tomato-based sauce, or try earthy lentils with roasted root veg.
This is made by Bodega Catena Zapata, the oldest winery still in family hands in Argentina, now headed by the inspirational fourth-generation vintner Laura Catena. From high-altitude vineyards in the Mendoza region, it’s concentrated but elegant, with layers of ripe black fruit, chocolate, pepper and a little vanilla from its gentle ageing in oak barrels.
Although Cahors is malbec’s spiritual home in France, the Loire valley also grows it very well, particularly in the Touraine region, better known for its zingy sauvignon blancs. This modern, unoaked malbec is prettily fragrant and very juicy, with soft, pure fruit and a lovely silky texture.
Susana Balbo is another of Argentina’s pioneering women of wine. She was the country’s first female winemaker and now runs her winery along with her two children. This weighs in at a punchy 14.5% ABV but wears it with aplomb – plush plum and damson fruit with some warming spice, lifted with a lick of mineral freshness on the finish. Great value for this class of wine.
Speedy serve
Winter sangria
This is a great way to use up any port left over after Christmas, and it also works with red wine. It’s a riff on the deeply unfashionable port and lemon, a drink rarely seen since the 1970s. Just pour 75ml of port over ice in a tall glass, top up with ginger beer and squeeze in a slice of orange. A dash of brandy will add a warming hit.
Reviews by Alex Crossley, Georgina Kiely, Anna Lawson, Dominic Martin, Ben Curtis